Have you ever looked at a ring on your finger and wondered how it was actually made? Heck, even the process of sizing a ring seems quite mysterious to me! Well this week, San Francisco jewelry designer Corey Egan released a killer video of what exactly goes into handcrafting jewelry. Her husband, Ryan Leggett, was the man behind the camera, and I think they did a fabulous job!
Corey told me, “He filmed me in my element, my downtown San Francisco studio, for three days to capture the footage…you get to see scenes of carving wax for casting, soldering, stone setting, and a look at my manufacturing space.” So without further ado, here’s the video. Sit back, and enjoy this 3 minute journey into the world of jewelry.
Wasn’t that so cool?! (And did you watch it more than once, like I did??) It’s amazing to me how many tools and machines are used in the process. It’s a real science.
Here’s a look at some of the finished pieces which were shown in the video.
I’m a big fan of chainlink bracelets, especially those which have an interesting texture, perhaps some mixed metals, and if you throw in some diamonds, I’m IN! So when I started seeing bracelets from Nancy Newberg on Instagram, I knew I had to meet her at the Couture show!
I may have been hyperventilating a little bit when I tried on this stack. Can you believe how good it is?! (I want them all!) Interspersing some of her bangles really made the combo “pop.” Take a look at the stack of bangles she was wearing…
Nancy is a Los Angeles-based designer, about 5 years into her business. With a background in fashion (her fine fashion line was carried in many stores), Nancy found herself with grown children and ready for a new chapter in her life. I’m so glad she chose jewlery as her new avenue of creativity!
Nancy sketches each piece, and they are all hand-crafted and hand-set in Los Angeles. She uses 14k gold and oxidized silver, accented with diamonds and pearls. She doesn’t use any colored stones, but rather sticks to a neutral color palette. (Like my closet!) I enjoyed trying on her diamond ball rings, which come in three colors.
I’m truly amazed how many talented jewelry designers there are here in the San Francisco Bay Area! Sam Woehrmann is definitely one of them, and he recently shared some of his new pieces with me. Because my eyes got wide as saucers when I saw them, I knew I had to share them with you. You can thank me later.
aquaprase, padparadscha sapphires, and brown diamonds in 22k gold and sterling silver
Have you always been a jewelry designer? What led you to your passion in jewelry design?
I have always been designing and making jewelry. I have always been intrigued by gemstones and crystals, ever since I was a little kid. Learning to incorporate these into metal working is what brought me into this line of work.
aquamarine and diamonds in 22/18k gold and sterling silver
With your most current pieces, what was your inspiration?
My current work is inspired by the stones, both in composition of shapes and color. When I am designing and combining different stones based on a color palette, I think of the color the metal is going to add to the design. I love mixing metals to get more variety in the overall appearance of the piece.
tourmaline, aquamarine, blue topaz, hematite crystal, and black diamond in 22k gold and sterling silver
How would you describe your aesthetic? What type of woman do you see wearing your jewlery?
I would describe my aesthetic as both modern industrial and whimsical. Many of my pieces are hard-lined but also have a touchable softness to them. I picture a modern woman wearing my pieces, someone that wants to make a statement with an edgy style and that takes chances in life. Someone who thinks outside the box and lets that reflect in her style.
aquaprase, padparadscha sapphires, and brown diamonds in 22/18k gold and sterling silver
Just for fun…what you’re fave SF:
Hard to pick favorites in SF since there are so many great options!
Restaurant– anything Asian. Warakubune is my favorite sushi boat place.
Place to unwind– a few of my favorite happy hour spots are gay bars in the Castro with a chill neighborhood feeling that have outdoor patios like the Pilsner Inn and The Mix.
Gallery or store– Modern Eden Gallery in North Beach — they exhibit amazing whimsical, fantasy, and sci-fi painting and sculpture. A super talented artist couple own this gallery and are the nicest people!
aquamarine, rose cut grey diamond, and tourmaline crystal in 22k gold and sterling silver
Julie Romanenko, the designer of Just Jules, is another talented artist I only knew via e-mail and social media. Meeting her in person at the Couture show was long overdue. (And how perfect that we fortuitously met the night before the show was to start — stars aligning!) Before I even started looking at the treasures in her jewlery cases, I couldn’t help but stare at the stunning opal pendant around her neck, which is one of her signature pieces. The combination of tones in the stone, the unique setting and the layered look is just spot on.
Opals are, in fact, one of her favorite stones — as they are mine. Take a gander at these opal necklaces.
Here’s an array of her rings, featuring all different stones, including opal.
And what about these opal earrings? The Art Deco details are inspired by the bails on some of the vintage lockets she owns.
Speaking of lockets…Julie takes vintage lockets and re-works them, combining them with new chains, gems and pearls. They are one of the most popular collections in her line, and I can see why. SO easy to wear, and they have so much character.
Being a master of re-working vintage pieces, can you spot the bracelet in her stack that’s made from an antique pin converted into a bracelet? I think the overall effect of her mix is sensational.
Just Jules, launched in 1991, is based in Scottsdale. Julie told me she fought making rings for some time, but now she’s obsessed with it. Who wouldn’t be?! Here’s a sampling of diamond rings from her Commitments Collection. Which one is your favorite? I just can’t decide…
Not only is Julie an outstanding jewlery designer, but this gal can bake! She had a big glass cookie jar of homemade sugar cookies on her counter. (Why did I not take a photo of this?!) I may have had one every day…and taken some for the plane ride home. Boy were they yummy!
Julie, so wonderful to finally meet you and try on your jewels. I’m a big fan!! xo
I’ve come full circle with my year of birthstone articles, ending with July’s stone, the ruby. (Just for you, mom — happy birthday!) Through my research, I found the ruby to be quite fascinating. It turns out that throughout history, the ruby was considered the most valuable of all stones, even more than a diamond. In the metaphysical world, it has the highest vibration of all stones, so high in fact, that it’s not a stone commonly used in mediation because it’s too darn energetic. Rubies represent love, passion and prosperity. Though I always think of rubies as red, they can actually range from a paler rose to a deep, crimson red (the most valuable). There can be a cast of orange, blue or purple to them, depending on where they are mined.
When you wear a ruby, here’s some of the qualities it will help you with:
-a clear mind
-brings a sense of adventure
-self-confidence
-motivation & high energy
-an aphrodisiac
-gets rid of nightmares
-courage
-stone of manifestation/following your bliss
Interesting, right?! And to whet your ruby appetite, here’s some stellar pieces of jewelry…
I was just reading my original post about Erica Molinari from 2012, and so much has changed! First of all, I now personally know and adore Erica. I had the pleasure of sitting at her table at the Couture awards show in 2013, and she couldn’t have been more welcoming and entertaining. She is one cool lady. Seeing her at the show each year since then has been such a treat. Then…there’s her jewelry. Her line has exploded with new designs, and I have to share some of my favorites with you.
So first up, you have to see her work in enamel. I couldn’t get enough of the rings, which come in both white and black.
Some have patterns and others have sayings on them. (Did I mention she has bangles as well?) My personal favorite is this black one, which in Italian says, “A beautiful thing is never perfect.” Honestly, I got tears in my eyes when I read it. And not bad with my Polly Wales diamond band, right?
And take a peek at the details inside the ring as well.
Here are some more of her new rings, showing how intricate her designs are. Are they vintage? New? This is one of the awesome things about Erica’s line — they are modern interpretations of some very old themes, really adding character and depth to your jewelry collection.
This is a perfect segue to her Momento Mori pieces, featuring skulls, skeletons and such.
I have to say I’m a bit obsessed with this one, which features a skull behind a custom cut white topaz with black enameling on the sides.
Here’s a side view so you can get a better perspective of the stone.
Oh, right…the skeletons. Hello!!!! Have you ever seen anything like it?
Erica has also gone bananas with her stud collection. She told me she wants to have 50 different designs, and right now she’s at 47. I have an inkling she’ll be surpassing her goal in the not-too-distant future.
And of course, if adding a little bling is on your agenda, then enjoy these pave diamond rings.
Erica and Felecia, you’re both amazing women, and I appreciate the tour of the new work!! If you’d like to keep current with the latest, then follow Erica Molinari on Instagram.
When I returned from Jewelry Week in Las Vegas, I mentioned that one of the high points (aside from seeing all the fantabulous jewelry), was finally meeting people in person whom I had only known online. Judi Powers is one of those lovely people, and meeting her “live” at the JCK show was so much fun! We hugged as if we were longtime friends, which I guess in a way…we were!
One of the first things I had to see at her booth was her Arun Sawad collection. I had been seeing images of these pieces on Instagram, and they did not disappoint in person! On her website she describes the inspiration for this design, “Many years ago while I was traveling in Thailand I fell in love with a riverside temple called Wat Arun, or temple of the dawn. As the sun was rising over this beautiful and sacred place, there was a warm golden glow in the sky. The colors of the diamonds with the gold remind me so much of that special place…”
And take a look at this green tourmaline ring with tsavorite garnets. Gorge, right?
Judi has not always been a jewlery designer. In fact, she spent 22 years in publishing. Jewelry has always been in her blood, though. She told me as a young girl she used to sneak off to spend time at her local jewelry store. Though she has been making jewelry since just after 9/11, her full-time transition to jewelry designer happened with a bang. She applied to FIT and got in just two weeks before classes were to begin. So, she quit her job on a Friday and began classes at FIT on a Monday. No down time there! Just one month after graduation, she entered and won a jewelry competition, which helped set her on her course to success. Her winning design, “A Tree Grows,” was inspired by a spring tree in her own Brooklyn neighborhood.
I’m so proud of the sustainability in Judy’s line as well, from metals to stones. She told me, “The line is completely sustainable, from mine to stone-cutter to studio.” (If you’d like more details about her dedication to sustainable jewlery, click here to read more.) Speaking of stones, I was drawn to this pair of earrings, which feature mis-matched beryl crystals — so harmonious, and perfectly imperfect.
She recently posted this photo on Instagram highlighting rings in an analogous color scheme. I can’t decide which is my favorite. Do you have one?
And are you a fan of flowers? Then you’ll enjoy these bracelets and rings from her Impatiens collection, which come in gold and silver with mocha diamond accents.
Though I could have stayed and chatted (and tried on jewlery) all day, I had to get going. Judi, it was an absolute pleasure meeting you! Thank you for sharing your story and jewelry with me.
I must say I have quite a few Zoe Chicco aficionados among my clientele. They are drawn to her effortlessly chic dainty chains, slim cuffs with diamonds, and earrings (which she brilliantly sells as singles). Whenever we shop, we have to check out the latest offerings here in San Francisco. While at the Couture show I, too, had to visit her booth to catch up with her and see what she’s been up to. Here’s a shot of the ear party she had going on when I stopped by. (Ear cuff envy!)
If you’re not already familiar with her line, let me give you a little background. She had a high school teacher who taught her soldering, and she was hooked from that day forward. She studied metal smithing in college, and began her line in 2000. Based in Los Angeles, each piece is made in house by her and her team. She has come a loooong way since she began her line in the closet in her apartment in San Francisco!
So fast forward to June 2016, and I found myself gazing into this case, which displays her new Paris Collection.
Always curious as to where designers get their inspiration, Zoe explained that the ceiling in her Paris showroom inspired the collection. Here’s a photo of that ceiling and one of the signature necklaces it inspired. What a cool evolution to see!
The ceiling that inspired Zoe’s latest collection
Voila — Zoe’s interpretation in gold and diamonds!
Here are a few more of the necklaces, showing how Zoe’s creativity can see different permutations of a theme.
I also like the various earrings in the group, ranging from dainty to bolder than I’ve seen her do before. Love the long drop hoops.
Zoe kindly modeled one of the earrings for me — clever how the large hoop ear jacket can be taken off, leaving you with two totally different looks.
Oh, and I also have to mention Zoe has now added some black pearls to her line. Though not part of the Paris Collection, I had to share them with you. Pretty, right?
I always enjoy seeing you, Zoe. I can tell how happy you are doing what you love! Thanks for the tour. I know my clients will be psyched to see this new work! xo
You June babies are lucky ducks, as you have three birthstones. One is Alexandrite. While it truly is a gorgeous stone, it’s extremely rare, so it’d be tough to find many options for you to buy. Then there’s the pearl, which many associate as the “main” birthstone for the month. Personally, I’m partial to the third option, moonstone. You may remember back in January I wrote an article about how my body physically craves certain gems, and moonstone is most definitely one of them. In fact, here’s my Steven Battelle rainbow moonstone ring I wrote about; I could not leave the store without buying it — it was truly a visceral reaction when I spotted it in the case. Has this ever happened to you?
Moonstones have been used in jewlery for over 2000 years. They are considered a sacred stone in India, and the most prized specimens come from Sri Lanka. The glow that emanates from within is reminiscent of the moon’s glow, hence the name. It comes in a variety of colors, from blue to peach to grey and more. Moonstone is the stone of emotional balance and is associated with goddess energy. It is a stone of protection (especially to travelers), love, passion, and it promotes psychic abilities and intuition. I think it’s a downright breathtaking gem.
I may have gone a little overboard with my virtual shopping spree today, but I just couldn’t help myself. Here are some of my favorites, in no particular order…
So now do you see how I’m so completely drawn to this iridescent stone? Oy…where is my bottomless wallet when I need it?! And if you are celebrating a birthday this month, wishing you all the best! (And be sure go to buy yourself a sparkly treat.)
If you’re looking for red-carpet worthy pearl jewelry, then look no further. Yoko London is the answer! In fact, you may remember back in January I included Zendaya, wearing Yoko London earrings and ring, in my jewelry report from the Golden Globes.
Thanks to D’Orazio and Associates, I was able to spend some quality time with Mandy Namdar at the Yoko London booth at the Couture show. Mandy, along with her two siblings are the second generation in a now three-generation jewlery business, started back in 1973 by her father. (The line is still made in London.) Within moments of our introduction, I found myself wearing this bold pearl and diamond lattice cuff from their Classic Collection. I’ve never tried on anything like it.
Perhaps your personal style veers towards a more minimal look, yet still with the wow factor? Then this bracelet might be calling your name.
Yoko London is known for the ombre effect they create with pearls, as shown in this three-strand necklace.
This year at Couture they were debuting their tassel collection, which this necklace and earrings are a part of.
Showing the range in their collection, compare the exquisite detail of the earrings above with the cleaner lines of these two pair.
Then, they go very fashion-forward and edgy, yet still elegant, with ear cuffs such as this one.
The same goes for their rings. From a major pearl statement ring to a unique multi-finger option. I could picture myself wearing either of them, depending on what I was doing that day!
I think one reason they have such a diverse line is that they let the pearls dictate the designs. Mandy told me that sometimes they may wait a year for just the right pearl to come along to complete the vision for a piece. That is supreme patience and dedication. I can’t imagine how long it took to select just the right pearls for this necklace.
And should I ever find myself attending a function with the Royal Family of ANY country, this would be the necklace I would want to wear. Wow!! I can envision it with a dreamy multi-layered chiffon dress in hues of the sea, with a plunging neckline to showcase the necklace…
Mandy, thank you SO much for sharing your time and expertise with me. Your passion for jewlery and connecting with your customers is truly contagious. I left smiling and with a new appreciation of pearl jewlery.
