Ever since I bought myself an Arik Kastan three-moonstone ring for Christmas a couple years ago from Twist, I’ve become a BIG fan of this vintage-inspired line. When Tamar Kelman, the creative director of the line, had a trunk show in Marin a year or so ago, another ring just maaay have gone home with me. Just maybe.
Arik Kastan is a jewlery designer based in Tel Aviv, and he utilizes old world jewelry making techniques. From sketch to finish, all work is done by hand, even the links on the necklaces! Tamar told me, “There’s a heartbeat to every piece.” Well-known for his particular alloys of rose gold and yellow gold, his work is inspired by the Victorian era, Art Deco, as well as old Arabic and European architecture. I want to share 11 of my fave pieces from this delectable collection with you…
So how’s that for some eye candy?! Now I hope you can understand why I’ve become such a big fan. Which piece would you pick as your favorite? I’m looking forward to seeing Tamar at the Couture show in Las Vegas and exploring the new designs!
Gumuchian had me at jewelry that is “designed by women for women.” I wanted to find out more, so I was pleased to have the opportunity at the Couture show in Las Vegas. Founded over 30 years ago by Anita Gumuchian and her daughters, Myriam and Patricia, this line has both range and personality. I tried on everything from ornate diamonds to whimsical rings. I want to share three parts of their line that really struck a chord with me.
The first is The Ring Cycle (part of their G boutique), which is a lovely ring that converts into a bracelet. Say what? Yep — really! Here’s the ring on my finger…
And here it is on my wrist in bracelet form…
Do you want to know how the transformation happened? Then take a peek at this 20 second video I filmed.
This piece was designed by Patricia based on something her mother had seen as a little girl while at a Turkish bazaar. It took a couple years to get the design just right, but she nailed it! The bracelet is “a daisy chain of concentric gold rings to remind you that however far family members may travel, they remain closely connected at the center.” Love that.
As I was trying on the jewels, I learned that Anita, now in her 8th decade, still walks to work every day! She is known as the “colored stones acquisiton-ist” and selects all the colored stones for their designs. Their collection is hand made in their Manhattan workshop.
I was also eager to learn about their B collection, in which a portion of proceeds to go Honeylove.org to support the struggling bee population. I first tried on a few of the rings from this group.
No need to explain where the design came from! It’s even more clear in this awesome cuff, with diamonds of honey enmeshed in the gold honeycomb.
Are charm bracelets your style? Then Gumuchian has you covered there as well. Each charm has a bail, so you can change them around, use them as a pendant, etc.
A final part I wanted to share with you is their ice cream collection. Yes, you read that correctly! They have a group of rings in the shape of waffle cones topped with gem ice-cream, which pays homage to their Belgian heritage. It turns out that Belgium is the home of the waffle, (Who knew?!) and eating ice-cream from these special cones is a true delight. I have on the strawberry ice-cream cone, which features a rhodochrosite center and pink sapphire accents.
Isn’t it just so much fun? I thought you’d like that. And I completely understand if it inspires you to visit your local ice-cream shop today for a scoop or two. (I recommend two.) I so enjoyed learning about this company and exploring their designs, and I hope you did as well.
Emeralds, known as the “stones of successful love” are considered one of the four “precious” stones — the others being diamonds, rubies and sapphires. Found as far back as 4000 BC, emeralds were one of Cleopatra’s favorite gems. In fact, the Egyptians believed they signified eternal life, so very often mummies were buried with an emerald. The word emerald come from the Greek word “smaragdus” which translates to “green stone.” Emeralds are mined around the globe, including countries such as Columbia, Brazil, and Afghanistan, to name a few. The more vibrant the green, the more valuable the stone.
This dazzling green gem also has many purported qualities for the wearer, which include:
-symbol of rebirth and growth
-inspires hope for the future
-promotes friendship
-brings contentment
-stone of wisdom and mental clarity
-activates creativity
-encourages one to live life to the fullest
With this new knowledge, I set off to find some pieces that piqued my emerald interest. In no particular order…
So do any of these pieces make you green with jewelry envy? What would be your top pick if you had a bottomless wallet? And if you have a birthday this month, I hope all your birthday wishes come true!!
You may be familiar with Maiyet’s luxurious clothing line, but did you know they also have both fashion and fine jewelry lines? Though I had seen their signature skinny bangle on one of my clients a couple years back, I had no idea what range they have in their collection until I encountered their booth at the Couture show.
First I’d like to show you some very stylish pieces from their fashion line. Here’s a pair of natural horn earrings. You will find quite a bit of horn across their collection. But have no fear, their materials are very ethically sourced.
In fact, that’s one of the things I love most about this company. They are very devoted to partnering with artisans around the globe, preserving their techniques and promoting “self-sufficiency and entrepreneurship in developing economies.” They strive to protect our planet and its resources. Even with their cashmere used in their clothing line, they have partnered with the Gobi Revival Fund and goat herders in outer Mongolia to create “the world’s first ethically sourced and environmentally sustainable cashmere yarn in the world.” How wonderful is that?
Ok, now back to the jewlery… Here are a couple rings and a cuff from their Empire collection, made of 18K gold-plated brass. I’m sure you can see how New York City architecture was an inspiration for this group.
Now let’s move on to some fine jewlery. First up are these two long diamond bar rings. The diamonds were sourced in Jaipur, where they were made in a manner which honors the Indian techniques of jewlery making.
There were also various single-finger rings. If one is good, then three are better, right?!
Next, I explored the Dagger collection. I tried on this black horn and diamond cuff while admiring the coordinating pendant necklaces.
One of my absolute favorite pieces I tried on, also in the Dagger line, is this moonstone and diamond ring. It’s as cool from the top view as it is from the side.
Their Moon & Stars group had a very dreamy necklace and heavenly bracelet (Sorry..couldn’t resist).
And finally…the pièce de résistance…their gold and diamond cage bracelet. The designer actually went to Jaipur and brought a stone-setter from NYC to train in how to set the diamonds to her specifications. I would say her efforts certainly paid off, wouldn’t you?
One of my favorite things about attending the JCK show in Las Vegas is visiting the “Rising Stars.” There’s always fresh, new ideas in design to explore. Heather Guidero was one of these Rising Stars, and I was eager to explore her line and learn more. Here I am trying on her Confetti large earrings.
You might think, based on their size, that they are heavy. But let me assure you they are light as a feather. From the photo, you can see they are not pulling on my piercing whatsoever. She achieves this lightness by using wire and very thin sheets of metal in her work. She really is creating sculpture for the body.
If you guessed pine needles, you are correct. That is if pine needles came in oxidized silver with 18K gold tips!
Heather began making jewelry when she was only 17 years old, and went on to graduate from the Rhode Island School of Design in 2002. After a few years working as a goldsmith in New York, she has now returned to Rhode Island, where all her jewelry is made by hand.
Modernist design is a key inspiration for her, as evident in these carved cone rings. I played around with stacking three of them in different sizes.
You know I’m always on the hunt for cool stud earrings. Heather had a chic design in a variety of stones.
Get ready for your jaw to drop…seriously, don’t say I didn’t warn you.
Pretty spectacular, hm?! OK — here’s one more to whet your appetite.
Now you’re getting an idea why meeting Paula Crevoshay and getting the opportunity to see her jewelry in person at the Couture show was on my “must do!” list. Aptly dubbed “The Queen of Color,” Paula utilizes her artistic talent to paint with gemstones. (She in fact has a masters degree in painting and sculpture, graduating with honors by the age of 22!) Each of her pieces is one-of-a-kind.
Let me show you a few items I couldn’t resist trying on while at the show. First is this poppy ring, which took a year to make. The intricacy of detail as I peered from the top, side, and back was just incredible. The ombre effect she created with the Mexican opals, moonstone center, the folding waves of the petals…I couldn’t get enough of it.
Paula sketches each design, and she can envision exactly which stones she’ll need to bring her vision off the page and into real life. This African Queen bracelet is made of faceted Ethiopian opals and blue zircon from Cambodia. From design until completion, it was about 6 months. It looks pretty good on me, right?!
While Paula didn’t necessarily anticipate going into jewelry, that changed while she was on a three year “Magical Mystery tour” in India as a new bride. I can only imagine how the vibrant colors of India, combined with her artistic talent just exploded during this period in her life.
Being the ocean-lover I am, I also had to admire her Seafoam Bracelet, depicting the waves coming onto shore. The blue sapphires represent the water, with diamonds as the frothy foam.
I know you won’t be surprised to hear that Paula has permanent displays in museums, including the Smithsonian Institute, Carnegie Museum and the GIA Museum. Believing that “we are born to be jeweled,” it has always been her intention that her jewlery consists of one-of-a-kind art pieces. She has achieved this in spades.
I want to share a few more images with you…
If you’d like to get to know a bit more about Paula and explore her passion, take 6 minutes to enjoy this beautiful video. After viewing it, I felt both zen and inspired at the same time.
I want to thank Paula and her wonderful team for taking the time to speak with me. I learned so much, and I now have an even deeper appreciation of her work.
There are times when I see a jewelry line, and it just resonates with me. This is exactly what happened when I checked out Julie Cohn’s work. (Thanks for the tip, Vicente Agor!) I think it’s so chic! Julie describes her collection as, “…primitive, yet modern in style, juxtaposing refined elements with rough organic shapes.” Working with Ancient Bronze and sterling silver, along with semi-precious stones, her designs are absolutely wearable. I had the chance to ask Julie some questions about her and her line. Read on to see what she has to say…
I’m in awe of your creative pursuits the past 30 years, which include designing paper, rugs, wallpaper and more. Has one thing just led to another in a natural progression? How did you make the jump to jewlery?
All of my creative endeavors have evolved organically. Each area of design that I have been involved with has had some common component with the next project. I was prototyping for a drapery hardware project and certain techniques that we were using were applicable to jewelry.
I think it’s wonderful that all the pieces in your line are made right in Dallas! Are you a self-taught jeweler?
I am a self taught jeweler. I have had private instruction along the way to figure out the best way to interpret a design, but I do all the conceptualizing and wax carving.
Your designs are both rustic and refined at the same time. How would you describe your aesthetic?
I am very influenced by the midcentury craft movement, which in turn was influenced by the architecture and ethnic crafts of that time period. I love ethnic jewelry but I also love the organic refinement of Elsa Perretti. I think my aesthetic is a mixture of all of those influences, in addition to my love of all things Japanese.
What is your current favorite piece or two in your line?
I love a lot of my rings. The current collection is about hand formed geometry and references contemporary architecture that I love. My favorite necklace is the Helena. It is made entirely of hand formed beads that are individually wire wrapped together. It’s obsessive in its construction but is so simple — it’s like a strand of bronze pearls.
What do you find are the biggest rewards and challenges of being a jewlery designer?
I live to work. There is an infinite amount of inspiration that I would love to explore. I think it is hard staying true to your own style and strengths when they may not be what everyone else is doing. I have never been successful when I’ve chased trends. I design for myself and what I’d like to be wearing.
Oh, you lucky April babies…you get the diamond as your birthstone! This gem, made of pure carbon, is known as the “stone of invincibility” because it’s the hardest known naturally occurring substance. It comes in most colors of the rainbow and can range from clear to opaque. Not only are diamonds beautiful, but they bring many wonderful qualities to those who wear them:
-enhances your inner vision, opening one to new possibilities
-brings balance to your brain and life
-builds strength and fortitude
-is a symbol of faithfulness and love
-helps release fear and anxiety, and builds courage and hope
-associated with success and abundance
One interesting thing I read while researching diamonds is that they are purported to amplify both the positive and the negative. So, for example, if you’re in a terrible mood, it will apparently magnify this feeling. It is suggested that one take off ones diamonds if feeling negative. Interesting, hm?
I was a bit overwhelmed when I began pondering how I could narrow down my examples of diamond jewelry to just a handful. There’s SO many pieces I love out there! Therefore, I decided to narrow the field and show you some of the fantastic designs from my local peeps — talented designers from the San Francisco Bay Area. I asked 11 different designers to share one of their current favorite pieces from their collections. So here they are in no particular order for your viewing pleasure…
Adeline Jewelry Quintet Ring — hand-carved 14K yellow gold beveled-edge band with five rosecut hexagon salt and pepper diamonds
Sakura Haru Halo Diamond Cluster Ring — 14K rose gold ring featuring and old euro-cut diamond from the early 1800’s (diamond from Perpetuum Jewels); the smaller side diamonds are from the client’s father, who had recently passed away.
Thalia Jewelry Diamond Rings — includes a platinum and diamond eternity band, a 14K rose gold diamond eternity band, and a larger platinum and diamond band, and a 2ct 18K yellow gold band.
I don’t know about you, but I’m blown away by the range in beauty coming out of the Bay Area. Thank you so much to the wonderful designers for sharing your work! May all of you with a birthday this month have a wonderful celebration and some fun shopping for diamonds. xo
Doryn Wallach is a name you’re going to start hearing more and more often. She made her debut at Centurion, where she was named Emerging Designer of 2016! In addition, she’s one of the Rising Stars who will be showing at the JCK show in Las Vegas this June. Way to make an entrance into the world of jewlery! After two decades as an interior designer, Doryn is now channeling her creativity and love of Art Deco line and design into jewelry. Read below as I asked her a few questions about her and her line.
I see that you’ve had a love of jewelry your whole life. In particular, re-designing pieces to fit in with your lifestyle. What’s one of the most memorable re-designs you recall?
I would have to say the gladiator ring from my collection, because that’s what sparked my career change. It started with a diamond eternity band I rarely wore. This ring was a gift from my husband, and I felt guilty that it spent most of the time hidden away in my jewelry box. So I decided to rework the diamonds into something I would wear every day — the gladiator ring. When people asked me who made it, a light bulb went off in my head.
The transition from your career as an interior designer to a jewelry designer seems so natural. How did you develop your affinity for the Art Deco period? Is this a carry-over from interior design?
When I was growing up outside Boston, my family spent a lot of our winter vacations in Miami. I was the kid who got my mom from point A to point B by remembering the landmarks, so my eyes were always peering out the car window. I fell in love with the architecture of the city — not only the pastel colors, but the lines of the buildings with their geometric and curvilinear forms. Years later, as an interior designer, I always incorporated Deco pieces in my spaces. I love their timeless glamour.
It’s exciting to see what a mark you’re making with your debut collection. What is your current favorite piece?
My agate-and-pearl pendant. I have a deep love for estate jewelry, and I think this piece has an estate feeling as well as a distinctly modern sensibility that allows it to go with almost any piece of clothing – day or night.
What do you find are the most challenging and most rewarding aspects of being a jewelry designer?
For me, the most challenging is simply navigating a new business after spending so many years focused on interior design. Of course, that challenge is also what I love about the change. The most rewarding aspect of designing jewelry is seeing my abstract idea become a tangible object. And I love knowing that a woman will wear the piece for many years and one day, hopefully, pass it down.
When you’re not in the studio working, how do you like to spend your free time? Any favorite hobbies?
When I am not working, I am with my kids, who are five and eight. They take most of my free time! But when I do have a few hours to myself, I love walking around the city, browsing through vintage shops and antique stores and people-watching. It’s very inspiring.
Perusing through her collection, I think her turquoise gladiator bar necklace is one of my faves. I could see it easily layered or worn on its own.
I look forward to meeting you in person at JCK, Doryn — thanks so much for your insight into you and your line!
I’ve had a crush on Brooke Gregson’s jewelry line for many years, and I was lucky to have the opportunity to meet her in person and play with her jewels at the Couture show. Does her name sound familiar to you? You may know her for her well-known woven silk bracelets with gemstones. Simply divine.
The lovely Brooke was raised in California and now lives in London. She has studios both in her Notting Hill neighborhood and in Los Angeles. Since founding her business in 2004, Brooke has always maintained strict quality in all her pieces, each hand-made with the assistance of master craftsmen. I was particularly entranced with her engraved pieces. I don’t know which of these three rings I like better. The engraving is all done by hand, and is inspired by her watercolor paintings. (Yes, she paints too!)
Can you see the wide array of colors in the boulder opals? Brooke carefully selects each stone she works with and often chooses gems which others may have overlooked, as they didn’t seem “perfect enough.” It shows how she can see the beauty within. This substantial cuff is another in her engraved series. No…I did not want to take it off!
The two collections meld together effortlessly, as seen in this stellar stack she posted on her Instagram feed. (If you want a riot of color in your feed, I suggest following Brooke Gregson.)
I was also drawn to her Ziggurat collection, so named for the rectangular stepped temples from ancient Mesopotamia. Here are two rings from this group.
The larger of these two rings is named the Hoffman Boulder Opal Sapphire ring. Don’t you think the color combination is so unique? I think Brooke’s talent in painting and drawing has really opened her eyes to mixing colors in ways that others may not think of.
Here are some Ziggurat necklaces layered together.
Once again, I’m in awe of the colors in this complex Ziggurat necklace, composed of boulder opal, turquoise and pink sapphires. It really pops!
If you’re looking for some alternative bridal rings, one of these may be what you’re looking for. I’ve got on the Eclipse Diamond Ring and the Ziggurat Frame Diamond Ring. Which would you choose?
Truly, this line is organic elegance at its best. It’s a jewelry goal to one day own a piece myself. Thanks so much for spending time with me, Brooke! I look forward to our next meeting.
