Gina Pankowski: Designer

In my next lifetime, I’m going to be an interior designer — I’m obsessed with creating the perfect home environment, and I pour over all the decor magazines each month. I was so intrigued with Moen’s ad campaign that featured statement necklaces made from the parts of their new faucet collection. (In fact, I saw the ad in a magazine while on a plane to the jewelry shows in Las Vegas.)

gina pankowski moen project
Who would have known, but just a couple days later while walking through the aisles of JCK, there was the ad! And even better, I was able to meet the talented Seattle-based designer of the necklace in person, Gina Pankowski!

gina pankowsi and amy roseveare
I thought it was so interesting to watch her video about how she came up with the necklace concept.

Gina has a truly distinct look to her collection, which is inspired by “organic architecture,” such as the planetary orbits and the human spine. Each hand-fabricated piece is kinetic and moves with the body. Take, for example, her Lattis Burst necklace. Gorgeous, right?

gina pankowski lattis burst necklace
I can see how Gina’s past as a sculptor influences her work. These earrings are truly small sculptures for your ears.

gina pankowski amphora earrings

Even her variation on a stud earring goes beyond the norm…in a very good way!

gina pankowski caged sphere earrings
The construction of this bracelet is so unique, that it doesn’t even need a clasp. (Plus, you know I’m a softie for mixed metals!)

gina pankowski lattis bangle bracelet
Gina takes the ordinary hoop earring to a new level, with her Vertebrae hoops.

gina pankowski vertebrae hoop earrings
Along with the 100% recycled metals she uses, Gina also incorporates color in some of her pieces, as shown in this rose quartz ring. I adore the setting — so unique!

gina pankowski rose quartz ring
In addition to her online shop, you can also see her line in person at various shops in the United States — click here for a list. Enjoy!

Talisman Collection in El Dorado Hills, CA

My brother moved to El Dorado Hills about three years ago. I had no clue where this town was when he broke the news, but if you’re driving there from the Bay Area, you take the 50 past Sacramento, towards South Lake Tahoe, and there you’ll find it. Most of my visits are consumed with family activities, from my nephew’s little league games to my niece’s soccer matches. Aside from runs to Target and Bed, Bath, and Beyond, I haven’t done an iota of “real” shopping on any visit. So HOW excited was I to finally see a fabulous store, and a jewelry store at that, this past weekend! The Talisman Collection is located right in downtown El Dorado Hills, and it’s a huge space filled with amazing items, from jewelry to bags to great gifts for the guy in your life.

When I walked into the store, I must say that I was in a bit of disarray, after spending the past few days moving my brother and his kids into their new home. But that clearly didn’t matter, and within minutes, the fab owner, Andrea Riso, and I were talking jewelry designers, stones, and trends. An hour passed in a flash, and I know I could have spent the entire afternoon there. She is beyond knowledgeable, and I learned so much from her. Do you know what this stone is?

water opal
water opal
I knew it was some sort of opal, but I learned it’s a very rare water opal, worth $50,000. I was nervous to even hold it!! Pulling more stones from her stash, I got to see this fire opal up close and personal. I cannot describe the radiance of this stone (this is just an iPhone photo, if you can believe it), and I can’t wait to see what she creates with it!

fire opal
I was drooling when she brought out this necklace from Paula Crevoshay, who is the queen of colored stones. Who knew?! Andrea knows, that’s for sure!

paula crevoshay necklace
The striking blue stone is hemimorphite, which looks like this in its natural state.

hemimorphite
Also by Paula Crevoshay is this fantastic Paraiba tourmaline ring. The weight of it felt just divine on my finger!

paula crevoshay paraiba tourmaline ring
In the multitude of cases lining the store, there were many of my favorite designers, from Anne Sportun to Sethi Couture to Zaiken, to name a few. But there are also some new names for me. One is Laura Medine, who it turns out is the mom of the infamous Man Repeller. (Love her–and she has such a following!!) It was this trio of necklaces that first caught my eye when I entered the store. The allure of alexandrite and peach moonstones was mesmerizing!

laura medine necklaces
And seriously, how gorge is this moonstone and diamond bracelet?!

laura medine bracelet
I also became acquainted with Fernando Jorge from Brazil. This necklace of sapphires and black gold made me want to go out on the town!

fernando jorge necklace
fernando jorge necklace
I was loathe to get on the road back to the Bay Area, but reality sunk in, and I had to stop playing with all the pretty jewels. Whether my brother likes it or not, I’m definitely going to be visiting this store on future visits. I know my 6 year-old nephew will be more than happy to accompany me, as he told me (as we were once peering through the store’s window off-hours) he loves the kid’s corner and said, “They have really cool rocks there!” Thanks to Andrea for the wonderful introduction and tour!

P.S Andrea–we need to meet for a drink at Couture this year!

Giovanni Ferraris: Jewelry Designer

Giovanni Ferraris is one of the first people I interviewed at the Couture show, but I knew I had to wait until now to write about him. Why? Because we’re only two weeks out from the Academy Awards, and this Italian line is beyond red carpet worthy! There were so many devastatingly beautiful pieces, and I couldn’t help but picture different movie stars wearing them. This pair of earrings, in fact, won the Haute Couture award at the show — pretty darn impressive, as it was his first time attending Couture. Bravo!

giovanni ferraris haute couture winning earrings
Getting his start 30 years ago making watches, he then branched into jewelry, where his wife, Katia, is the main designer, and he handles the production end of things. Their factory is located in San Salvatore, Italy, a region rich in the jewelry business, and each piece is made right there in their factory. I couldn’t resist trying on these diamond and titanium earrings. While they are definitely heavy on the bling, they are light on the ear. They took 300 hours to make! Che lavoro!!

giovanni ferraris diamond earrings
This pair of blue-green sapphire and diamond earrings are one-of-a-kind and out of this world!

giovanni ferraris earrings
These earrings are part of the “Twist” collection, and they move, just like springs.

giovanni ferraris twist earrings
Here’s my friend, Jen, modeling a bracelet from the same collection — it fits so comfortably around the wrist.

giovanni ferraris bracelet
Giovanni demonstrated how it moves with ease, and pops right back into shape.

There were other bracelets I couldn’t resist trying as well. This mesh of black and white diamonds is from the “Velvet” collection.

giovannni ferraris bracelet
And this London blue topaz and diamond bracelet has a very deep blue hue, reminiscent of the Mediterranean Sea.

giovanni ferraris bracelet
The glow emanating from this pink quartz ring was spectacular. The attention to detail in the setting makes it as pretty from the side as it is from the top.

giovanni ferraris ring
giovanni ferraris ring
If I were hitting the red carpet, I surely wouldn’t mind wearing one of these!

giovanni ferraris iris rings
I so enjoyed getting to know Giovanni — from practicing my Italian a bit, to trying on the exquisite jewels. I will definitely be visiting his booth again at Couture this year to see the latest and greatest.

amy roseveare and giovanni ferraris

Atelier Minyon

Did you see Jada Pinkett Smith wear this necklace on Gotham? Well I’ve seen it in person, and it is truly a sight to behold!

atelier minyon necklace by alp sagnak
This other-worldly creation comes from the mind and workbench of Alp Sagnak of Atelier Minyon. This Turkish designer, now with a flagship store in Soho in NYC (He has 6 stores in Turkey.) makes each and every piece by hand, and let me tell you that I’ve rarely seen such complex detail in jewelry. For instance, look at this skull quark hourglass cuff bracelet: the open mouths of the snakes, the gripping skeletal hands, and the gold skull and ribcage on the diamond-dust filled hourglass. Simply amazing.

atelier minyon skull quark hourglass cuff
atelier minyon skull quark hourglass cuff
Alp definitely has a fire in his eyes, and he enthusiastically told me about his line. He sees each of us as having two sides, the naive (which he represents with gold) and the wild (shown with darkened silver). He said, “Embrace your shadow, or it will kill you.” The two sides are clearly shown in this entwined angel and devil necklace. It makes you think, doesn’t it?

atelier minyon entwined angel and devil necklace
Alp, as second generation jeweler, saw jewelry making as his “therapy” while studying industrial engineering. He’s able to let his mind run free, where he creates fictional animals, such as the body of a seahorse with wings of a dragon. He uses the most poisonous flowers and dangerous creatures in his work. I was intrigued by the gem-filled syringes at his booth, which he said many use for healing.

atelier minyon syringe
And what about this “poison” bottle? I think it would look amazing on a long chain, layered with other necklaces.

atelier minyon poison bottle.
There are certainly some pieces in his line that aren’t as mythical, such as this beautiful bracelet I tried on, woven in the Ottoman style with a bejeweled clasp.

atelier minyon bracelet
And just the other day, he posted this photo of a rosecut diamond pendant on his Instagram page. I love it!

atelier minyon diamond pendant
But I must say, I keep going back to look at his non-traditonal designs. How did he come up with this “Humble Man” pendant, with the body formed by the texture of motorcycle chains?

atelier minyon humble man pendant
Or this ring, where he has a gold spider inside the enamel skull?!

atelier minyon enamel spider skull ring
As you can see, this is clearly an out-of-the ordinary line, and it was not a surprise that he won a Couture design award in 2013 and was nominated again this past year for the necklace shown first in this article.

I look forward to seeing Alp, and his vibrant wife, Asli, at the Couture show again this year. I know that there’s no way I can even imagine what I’ll be seeing from him!

 

Asli, Amy and Alp
Asli, Amy and Alp

 

Toby Pomeroy: Designer

I believe one of life’s greatest gifts is when a person finds their true passion in life, and then can make a living pursuing it. This is exactly what happened to Toby Pomeroy. Gracefully allowing me to interview him during his lunch break at the JCK show in Las Vegas, Toby described how he discovered his love for jewelry design. He was in medical school, but signed up for a jewelry making class as an elective during his senior year. His professor, Max Nixon, could clearly see he had a talent, and gave him a key to the jewelry lab so that he could work any time he wanted. Toby was hooked (He said he practically lived in that lab!), and he never looked back.

 

Amy and Toby
Amy and Toby

Toby has a gentleness about him and a sparkle in his eye! He was so open and eager to tell me about his work. One of the things that he’s world-known for is his commitment to environmentally sustainable, socially responsible jewelry. He explained to me that his real focus is on the impact of the mining industry, and he says it’s up to jewelers to request ethically sourced materials. He, himself, goes down to the mines in Columbia and works directly with the miners, staying with families there. He told me how they’re so proud of what they do, and they never thought that they’d be recognized for their hard work. This is amazing to hear! Here are a few photos he shared with me, including the mine entrance at the Canada mine, and a couple images from La Llanada. What a gold nugget!

Cart at Canada mine entrance
La Llanada molino
La Llanada gold nugget
Due to Toby’s efforts in refining re-claimed metals in cooperation with Hoover & Strong refiners, he launched EcoGold and EcoSilver in 2006, which has started a new revolution in sustainability in the world of jewelry. Toby sets the standard with True Gold, which is described as, “…TRUE GOLD™ jewelry uses completely traceable gold, platinum, diamonds and gemstones, showing complete authenticity from mine to market. When you purchase source certified TRUE GOLD™, you are supporting Fair Trade and Fair Mining efforts, conflict-free diamonds, and environmental responsibility.”

Now that you’re surely excited about the materials, let’s take a look at Toby’s beautiful designs. He’s most famous for his Eclipse hoops, which I first saw at Manika Jewelry in San Francisco. Toby described them to me as, “..an elegant marriage of form and function.” This photo shows a style with a shiny finish and diamonds.

Toby Pomeroy Brilliant Eclipse Community
I loved this Orchid cuff I tried on at the show. Its blackened EcoSilver with a dash of diamonds is just lovely!

toby pomeroy cuff
Another shape, which is a modification of his classic Eclipse, is the Oval Eclipse collection.

toby pomeroy oval eclipse jewelry
The texture on his pieces are all hand-forged, with the help of his wonderful crew, Hank Hermansen and Rachel Richardson.

 

Rachel and Hank
Rachel and Hank

Imagine the work that goes into pieces like these, from the Oasis collection.

toby pomeroy oasis two-tone earrings
Or in these delicate Ginko earrings..

toby pomeroy ginkgo earrings with diamonds
Toby also incorporates colored gem stones into some of his creations, such as in these earrings from the Comet Collection.

toby pomeroy comet earrings
While every piece is produced at his studio in Oregon, you can find his line around the globe. Click here for a store locater guide. It was an absolute pleasure to meet Toby and learn about the positive impact he’s making in the world!

Meredith Marks: My 3 Fave Pieces From the JCK Show

I cannot believe that three and a half years have passed since I first interviewed stellar jewelry designer Meredith Marks. (Click here to read that article.) I love how this line has grown and evolved since our last meeting, and I was pretty blown away by three different pieces I tried on at the JCK show in Las Vegas. Here they are, in no particular order.

Abalone and emerald “Lia” cuff, set in rhodium plated sterling silver

meredith marks lia cuff
Pyrite “Graysen” necklace with diamonds

meredith marks graysen necklace
amy roseveare in meredith marks necklace
“Ivy” cuff — rhodium plated sterling silver with diamonds

meredith marks ivy cuff
While all three of these pieces are substantial in size, they were very comfortable to wear! If you’d like to see her work in person, then click here for a link (and scroll down a bit) for a list of stockists.

Antonini

What’s better than a gracious, handsome Italian gentleman with a twinkle in his eye? One that designs incredible jewelry! That exactly describes Sergio Antonini, the designer of the venerable Milan jewelry line, Antonini. I had the distinct pleasure of meeting Sergio at the Couture show, and he gave me a tour of his lovely line.

sergio antonini and amy roseveare
Founded by his grandfather in 1919, where he started in dealing loose stones, the line has steadily grown. Sergio, an architect by trade, took over in 1989. It’s clear that his training in architecture and his love for the islands in southern Italy were instrumental in his Vulcano collection. I was quick to try on a this diamond ring. Fabulous, right?!

antonini vulcano ring
They comes in three different sizes.

antonini vulcano rings
The finish on these pieces is very unique. It’s made from gold over rhodium; it’s carved under heat, so that the black shows through. You can really visualize the flow of lava in each and every item. I tried on one of the cuff bracelets.

antonini vulcano bracelet
Another cuff I was wild about is from his Aurea collection, inspired by the Latin word for gold. Its sinuous, organic shape was so comfortable to wear. And who can resist the sparkle of the pave diamonds?

antonini aurea cuff
It’s also made in white gold with diamonds.

antonini aurea cuff
I really admired the Anniversary collection, celebrating 90 years of jewelry design. The finish on the hammered rose gold was especially intriguing, as it wasn’t quite brushed, yet it had a soft glow.

antonini anniversary collection necklace
Antonini also has some exquisite pieces using precious colored stones as well. Take a look as these.

antonini jewelry
antonini ring
antonini snake earrings
The curves, the sensuality, and the sparkle of this line are wonderful. If you’d like a closer look, then click here to find a retail location near you.

WJA Designers by the Bay

This is the second year I’ve attended the Women’s Jewelry Association’s big event, Designers by the Bay. This event is truly a visual feast, held in the Shreve’s building near Union Square; it’s where Bay Area fine jewelry designers showcase their latest work. There was unfortunately no way to have an intimate look at every case during the time I was there, but there were four designers that really got my attention, and I was able to take a closer look at their lines.

Tura Sugden was a new kid on the block (It was her first show!), but she is going places..quickly. She is based in Noe Valley in San Francisco, where she designs and makes each piece herself. I was taken by the unique settings and stone shapes — look at this spectacular pair of diamond earrings!

tura sugden jewelry
The same amazing detail, created with a German blow-torch, is shown in her studs as well. (I’m especially paying attention to these now that I have my new piercings!)

tura sugden earrings
And what’s not to love about this diamond cuff?

tura sugden diamond cuff
In contrast to the complexity of Tura’s designs, I was also very drawn to the sleek lines of Coleoptere (which means beetle in French). I tried on this shiny gold disc ring (called the wabi sabi ring), with diamonds around the edges. So interesting how the light reflects off the surface of it, making it almost look like a stone of some sort.

coleoptere wabi sabi ring
Here’s a clear photo of it from their website.

coleoptere ring
This Oakland-based company has all female goldsmiths — very unique! They use 18K royal yellow gold, which I learned is a rare buttery color with a touch of green. I thought the design of these asterisk earrings was awesome.

coleoptere earrings
The woman I was standing next to wanted to go home with these stunning gold hair pins…and they’d look fab on her with her long hair!

coleoptere hair pins
Jennifer Dawes is an artist that I’ve wanted to meet for years, and I finally had the pleasure at this event. Based in Santa Rosa, Jennifer’s collection was bursting with color. There were stacks of rings in all hues.

jennifer dawes rings
jennifer dawes rings
With a strong focus on responsible, sustainable jewelry, all of Jennifer’s jewelry is hand fabricated and finished at her studio. I was in love with this necklace, comprised of a very pale emerald above an emerald crystal. The combination of color and texture is sublime.

jennifer dawes necklace
Taking a stroll through her website, this Etruscan double diamond ring spoke to me.

jennifer dawes etruscan double diamond ring
My final showcase for the evening (before the Giant’s won the World Series and I had to get the heck out of SF before the mayhem) was that of Thalia Jewelry. Designer Rachel Clinnick just glowed with delight when showing me her amazing work. I could instantly feel her passion for design. This stack of diamond and opal rings was amazing–especially the one with the diamond teardrop pendant. Yum!

thalia jewelry rings
Most of the pieces are one-of-a-kind. I couldn’t believe how this large Ethiopian opal ring was on fire on my finger!

thalia jewelry opal ring
And this one she dubbed “The King’s ring.” Wowza–very heavy and worthy of royalty indeed!

thalia jewelry ring
Finally, this necklace with it’s diamond pave double snake clasp was beautiful! The clasp is completely interchangeable, allowing you to create different necklace or bracelet looks. Brilliant design!

thalia jewelry double snake clasp
I wish I had been able to stay longer at the event, as there were many more cases beckoning me. So many jewels, so little time…

Anna Inspiring Jewellery: NYC

One of the things I loved about spending a week staying in the Meatpacking district in New York City was that there were tons of great shops just a stone’s throw from my hotel. Many, of course, are national chains, but others are quaint shops that I was so pleased to discover. One of my favorites was Anna Inspiring Jewellry, which my client and I were’t familiar with. Now, we’re both big fans. Here’s a photo from their website which will give you a feel for the line.

anna inspiring jewellery
The jewelry has a very light, delicate feel — most of their pieces are perfect for layering. My client fell in love with these rose gold earrings, which have a pave diamond ball with a long chain that hangs from the back of your ear. Since she recently got a second piercing, she paired it with the same pave ball in a stud.

anna inspiring jewellery earrings
Also at the top of her lust list was this diamond circle ring. With her petite frame, it was the perfect accent — bold, but not overwhelming at all.

anna inspiring jewellery circle ring
There were tons of different bracelets. Click here for the link to see the choices. There’s quite a few with charms with inspiring words. They definitely would make special gifts for people on your list. (Perfect way to get a jump start on  your holiday shopping!)

anna inspiring jewellery bracelets
The delightful owner and designer, Anna, was fortunately in the store on both our visits. She was visiting from Vienna, where they are based. (There’s also a third store in Munich, Germany.) While my client was busy trying on things, I couldn’t resist trying on this double-fingered diamond ring myself. It’s incredibly comfortable, and it doesn’t restrict your finger movement whatsoever.

anna inspiring jewellery ring

I thought the line was exceptionally well-priced, especially given the cost of gold these days. I’m so glad that we discovered this store, and we’ll be sure to come back next trip.

A Tale of Two Piercings

Perhaps it’s Pinterest’s fault…months ago I started coming across photos of women with lovely, delicate ear piercings. Some had numerous, some just a few, but it got me thinking that this would be a fabulous way to get to wear more jewelry…petite raw diamond studs, perhaps a little diamond bar or hoop? Certainly nothing over-the-top — just tasteful with an urban bohemian flair. And then I noticed many of my friends (especially those in the jewelry business) had such creative combinations in their ears. But then, I also know that I’m the girl who faints during a routine blood test. Could I really do this? Then came last Wednesday night. There I was at the Women’s Jewelry Association Designers by the Bay event, and I got into a conversation about it with Laura Forst, from Aesthetic Movement, and a couple other jewelry designers who are also considering making the piercing leap. (side note: Laura’s ears full of diamonds are a beauty to behold.)

“What about this Saturday?” says Laura.
“What are you talking about?” I reply skeptically.
“I know the perfect place,” she says with a grin, “It’s Rose Gold’s Tattoo and Piercing in the Haight.”

I knew full well that I was available on Saturday.

I have never been to the Haight.
I’ve never been to a tattoo parlor.

Fast forward to Saturday.
I’m in the Haight, and I’m in a tattoo place.

Outside. My. Comfort. Zone.  Oh my.

rose gold's tattoo & piercing
We got there right when it opened, so it was still pretty quiet, and we were able to peruse the earring selections. Now let me tell you, this is not like going to the mall where some 16 year-old girl gets out the piercing gun and shoots an ugly-colored Swarovski crystal into your ear. This is serious business. I couldn’t believe the selection of white, yellow, and rose gold options with various stones. (And I’m choosing to ignore the fact that I needed my cheaters to see everything in detail. Ha!)

Some of the possibilities
Some of the possibilities

And certainly there were some options that I was going to stay clear of.

rose gold's tattoo and piercing
Marie McCarthy, the lovely and knowledgeable owner, and my professional piercer, Perry Doig, helped with the selection. I knew I was in good hands. I ended up choosing a bezel-set opal and a little gold four-ball design stud.

Knowing that I’m a fainter (this cannot be emphasized enough!), I was thrilled to know that I would be laying down for this process. Still, my hands were clammy and my stomach was in knots.

It's time!
The first step was to thoroughly clean my ear, and determine where the two piercings would go. He made sure to select locations that were spaced far enough from my original piercing so that I could still wear my regular earrings of different sizes. He also took care to select what would work best with the curves of my ear. I could tell that he’s done this more than once before!

amy roseveare and perry doig
Soon Perry had me doing some breathing exercises, and was calmly talking me through the whole process. He let me go at my own pace and was a consummate professional. I didn’t even have to lay eyes on the needle or other tools he used, which certainly worked for me! I also cannot tell you how conscientious this establishment is with cleanliness. (10 points for that!)

perry doig and amy roseveare
Just a few pinches and NO blood later (at least that I saw), it was all done!

perry doig and amy roseveare
I think the photos he took and put up on Instagram turned out cool. He’s such a cutie!

amy roseveare
I was surprised to learn about the after-care as well. I recall twisting my original piercings and cleaning them with rubbing alcohol back in the day. But apparently this isn’t the best treatment now. Instead, I’m not to touch my new earrings at all. I need to use a saltwater ear bath for 5 minutes twice a day, and use a saltwater spray a few times a day. Here’s a link to the directions. Interesting! And then in 6-8 weeks, I’ll go back to get shorter backs put on the earrings. Currently, they have long posts to allow for swelling.

Since Laura was so amazing with me during this whole process, she treated herself to a new tattoo that she’s been wanting.

laura forst
Do you know what this is the symbol for?

laura forst
Then, it was definitely time to relax and enjoy, so we went across to Magnolia Pub & Brewery for a delicious brunch. (The croque madame was deelish!)

amy roseveare and laura forst
What a fun adventure! Thanks so much to Laura, Perry and Marie for everything…and I can’t wait to start my new little earring collection!