Brandon Holschuh: Designer

My fascination with Brandon Holschuh began when I spied an incredibly unique bead he made on Instagram. I vividly remember I was sitting in my hotel room in Edinburgh, Scotland, and my jaw about hit the floor. I was thrilled when I found out he was showing in San Francisco in August when I returned to California, and I got to meet him in person and check out a similar bead. I love everything about it, from the clearly hand-fabricated texture to the diamonds and variation in metal colors.

I hope you enjoy my interview with Brandon where you’ll find out more about this talented Ohio-based designer.

You told me that you’ve had a life long fascination with beads. Is this what got you going in jewelry design?

Yes, I began collecting ancient and ethnic beads as a teenager. Everything started as a collection. I began collecting beads, artifacts, coins, bones, parts, gemstones, rocks and any small object that had a story. I love learning about the history of the object, the provenance and I equally love the retelling the [object] story as well.

I learned to work with metal as a vehicle to help present the object or artifact. So making a metal armature or a mount to hold the objects began the evolution to jewelry. Copper turned to silver… silver turned to gold… and little by little diamonds creeped in. Our current work still pays homage to beads, but they are diamond beads. They are still strung on wire, but it’s now platinum. The forms are still present but they are also raised in platinum, gold and palladium. We have stayed consistent with the aesthetic throughout the evolution, but the materials are precious, the designs more complex and the whole feel is more refined.

 

Sculptural Herkimer diamond pin with flame set stones, 24K gold and oxidized silver

Your pieces have such a raw, organic, yet luxe aesthetic. What’s your inspiration for your designs?

It seems to silly to even say this, but it’s the absolute truth — we honestly let the metal tell us what it wants to be. We process the material in such a way that we have a unique and intimate understanding of its properties, its working capacity and its ability to change shape. This working relationship is how we push the metal to its limits. We get asked a lot about our process and it’s sometimes shocking to hear that our forms, shapes and designs are entirely hand-fabricated. We do not carve wax or cast anything. Each piece incorporates so many processes and various techniques it’s entirely a product of process. We do a lot of fusing, reticulation, forming, raising and sinking. We experiment a lot and we welcome unexpected results. We integrate those into the designs. We make a lot of parts. With those parts we make small objects. With those objects, we decide if it’s going to be a brooch or a ring or a necklace. Once in a while we stumble upon two parts that are similar. Those usually become earrings or cufflinks. The whole design process is organic, as is the work.

 

Piling on the rings

 

Stacking them up…

What do you find are the most challenging and rewarding things about being a jewelry designer?

I’m an artist. My medium happens to be jewelry. I make small wearable sculptures. Even though I’m a jeweler, I’m still an artist who has a voice. I use jewelry to communicate an idea. Just like a painter makes you feel a certain way when you view their painting, I use jewelry to evoke a certain emotion. More importantly our work still has a conceptual component. Actually, it has three main components that must be met to consider a piece complete. Here they are, in order:

BEAUTIFUL
TECHNICAL
CONCEPTUAL

A finished piece must be immediately beautiful. It must be accepted by the general public as an object of beauty. It must exude luxury, refinement and sheer beauty in design and material. This is for the client, the customer and the collector.

Next, it must be well made. It must gain accolades and admiration from other makers, jewelers and craftspeople who appreciate the vast and dynamic processes that go into each piece. We must trigger the question of how it’s made, what processes were used and what the complexity of the design is. This is for those who make and our counterparts. It’s also for the critics, jurors, judges and masters of the craft.

The final component is conceptual. We make work that communicates an idea. Yes, it’s beautiful. Yes, it’s expertly crafted. But it also has meaning. We excel here. We challenge the design to communicate a concept or to tell a story without words. Sometimes the viewer creates their own connection to the work. This interpretation is personal. Mostly it’s an emotion. Sometimes it’s literal. We have made pieces that are purely conceptual. This is for the sentimental, the heirloom seekers. This is also for academia and those who want a deeper connection with the objects in their lives. We love to tell the stories. Remember, it’s always about the story.

 

Bracelets galore!

If you weren’t a jeweler, what would you be doing?

Nothing. I can’t imagine a life where jewelry isn’t in my thoughts and actions in every minute of every day. My time is spent equally between my loving and supportive family and my studio. I have two amazing daughters and between my duties as a husband and father, there isn’t any time for much else.

 

This brooch features 15 carats of diamonds!!

OK, and now I have something VERY special to share with you. This is the debut of Brandon’s off-the-charts gorgeous emerald and diamond ring.

Did your eyes just go wide with delight? I bet! Here are a few more images of this beauty, which features an 8+ carat emerald, over a carat in diamonds, and all hand fabricated in 18K gold. The emerald just glows from within. I’ve never seen anything like it, have you??

Brandon — you have a true gift.

 

Hanging out with Brandon

If you’d like to contact Brandon about his work, you can reach him at [email protected] or 216-577-6365. There are also links to his website and Instagram at the beginning of this article. I have a feeling there are more than a few future Brandon Holschuh collectors reading this article…

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Gina Pankowski: Designer

In my next lifetime, I’m going to be an interior designer — I’m obsessed with creating the perfect home environment, and I pour over all the decor magazines each month. I was so intrigued with Moen’s ad campaign that featured statement necklaces made from the parts of their new faucet collection. (In fact, I saw the ad in a magazine while on a plane to the jewelry shows in Las Vegas.)

gina pankowski moen project
Who would have known, but just a couple days later while walking through the aisles of JCK, there was the ad! And even better, I was able to meet the talented Seattle-based designer of the necklace in person, Gina Pankowski!

gina pankowsi and amy roseveare
I thought it was so interesting to watch her video about how she came up with the necklace concept.

Gina has a truly distinct look to her collection, which is inspired by “organic architecture,” such as the planetary orbits and the human spine. Each hand-fabricated piece is kinetic and moves with the body. Take, for example, her Lattis Burst necklace. Gorgeous, right?

gina pankowski lattis burst necklace
I can see how Gina’s past as a sculptor influences her work. These earrings are truly small sculptures for your ears.

gina pankowski amphora earrings

Even her variation on a stud earring goes beyond the norm…in a very good way!

gina pankowski caged sphere earrings
The construction of this bracelet is so unique, that it doesn’t even need a clasp. (Plus, you know I’m a softie for mixed metals!)

gina pankowski lattis bangle bracelet
Gina takes the ordinary hoop earring to a new level, with her Vertebrae hoops.

gina pankowski vertebrae hoop earrings
Along with the 100% recycled metals she uses, Gina also incorporates color in some of her pieces, as shown in this rose quartz ring. I adore the setting — so unique!

gina pankowski rose quartz ring
In addition to her online shop, you can also see her line in person at various shops in the United States — click here for a list. Enjoy!

Accessorize Me: Vince Suede Top

I was so happy to hear how much you liked my first installment of Accessorize Me, and I appreciate all the comments! So here we are with our second article. I did get quite a few inquiries about the different items in the last post regarding how much they cost and where to purchase them. Please know that each and every item has a link directly to the product, so if you’re interested in knowing more about a particular piece, just click on the highlighted link and it’ll take you right there. Easy-peezy.

One of my clients received a generous gift card for her birthday, and she decided to purchase something special that she normally wouldn’t have bought for herself — this beautiful Vince suede oversized top.

vince suede oversize leather tee
In order to make her purchase make sense, as it was certainly an investment, we had to make sure she could wear it a variety of ways. The rule is that the more you wear something, the lower the cost-per-wear will be. The first look we went for was one with a very casual, yet pulled-together beachy vibe. We started with a pair of Kut from the Kloth “Mia” skinny jeans. (side note: This is a great brand and cut for a curvy figure.)

kut from the kloth mia jean

Now comes the really fun part, selecting the right accessories to really express her casual, cool California style. The centerpiece is this fab necklace from Anthropologie. It’s definitely a statement in its scale, and the bold horn combined with the cotton cord creates a very bohemian, organic look.

anthropolgie legend & song daylight horn necklace
Adding this mixed metal ring and rustic gold hoops complement the neutral tones in the rest of the outfit. I really enjoy mixing metals, and I find it can really add some dimension to an outfit.

arhaus ring and sundance gold hoops
In lieu of a traditional bag, this metallic woven tote with these snake print sandals (only $39!) complete the ensemble.

anthropologie metallic weave tote
mia castaway sandal
But now how to step it up? She wanted to wear the same top to an upcoming outdoor cocktail party at a friend’s house, looking sleek and sophisticated. First step was to find a white pencil skirt. When wearing a fuller cut on top, balancing it out with a slimmer silhouette on the bottom works well. I also made sure the skirt was longer than the length of the top, giving the two pieces an uneven proportion, which is always more flattering than a half-half proportion.

David Lerner white skirt
For a more sophisticated look, I opted for streamlined gold cuffs (one on each wrist) and modern earrings by Elizabeth and James.

kristen elspeth gold cuff and elizabeth and james earrings
It’s always good to add a bit of texture, though, so this ring by Rebecca Minkoff does the trick. (It would also mix very well with the ring from the first outfit.)

rebecca minkoff earth eclectic open pave ring
For the finishing touches, these neutral bootie-style sandals (which would also rock with jeans) and a killer Jimmy Choo bag in multiple neutral shades, stylishly ties it all together.

sole society shoes and jimmy choo  candy clutch
Another thing I’m looking forward to, aside from creating more combinations for her for this season, is also transitioning this top into fall. It’s really something that can be worn 9 months of the year here in the Bay Area, which will continue to make the cost-per-wear go down. I would love to hear your thoughts on these ensembles!