As I sit to write this article, I find myself desperately missing Scotland and a wee bit jet lagged as well. I have just returned from a month in the UK — three weeks in Scotland and a week in London. It was a most amazing solo adventure, and I’ve discovered lots of goodies to share with you. First up, I have to tell you about Joseph Bonnar, a truly amazing antique and period jewelry store in the New Town section of Edinburgh. I had the pleasure of visiting the store twice during my week’s stay, as I just didn’t take in enough the first time.
Entering this establishment feels like being in a well-curated jewelry museum where you can actually try on and BUY the artifacts! Just incredible. Many of the pieces come from local families, so Joseph can actually trace the heritage of many items. Here’s just one of the cases of antique Scottish jewelry. This store has the best selection of Scottish pieces that I came across on my entire trip.
Merchandise is very clearly labeled with information and price, which makes shopping very user friendly. I was drooling on the cases in the “gold” section. Both the variety of snake rings and this huge oval pendant (it must have been over 2 inches!) were screaming to go home with me. Alas…
As I chatted with Joseph about various pieces, he would suddenly pull something extra-special from the back for me to take a look at. We were discussing the resurgence in popularity of riviere necklaces, when he handed me this leather box from 1860. Take a gander at what’s inside! *gasp*
On my second visit, I was fortunate to see this paste crown and pin from the 19th century. It’s Central European and ended up in Edinburgh as the owner married a Scot. I wonder who she was…
A particularly lovely ring I saw is this Georgian silver and gold cushion cut diamond ring with enamel details. Isn’t it just exquisite?
The ring that stole my heart, and just happened to fit perfectly on my pinky finger, is this sweet Georgian citrine ring. I needed a pinky ring, right? I thought so.
I could have spent the whole day in this store, and I thank Joseph and his lovely staff for all their time and expertise. They do show quite a few products on their website if you’d like to get a more in-depth look at their collection. But personally, I say it’s worth an in person visit!
If you find yourself in Edinburgh, I’m sure your antique jewelry shopping will work up an appetite. I wanted to share a few recommendations with you, as I tried out many restaurants during my time there. For lunch, the restaurant at Harvey Nichols (Harvey Nick’s, for locals) was both delicious and had a stellar view! It’s only about a 5-10 minute walk from Joseph Bonnar.
View from the restaurant at Harvey Nick’s in Edinburgh
For dinner, I found two excellent choices. Both of these are in the Old Town, not far from Edinburgh Castle. The first is Howies on Victoria, the brightly-colored street that leads down to the Grassmarket area. While they had me at the elderflower gin fizz, the warm bread and salmon with tempura fried anchovies truly won me over.
Victoria Street in Edinburgh
The other dinner I really loved was at The Outsider, which came with a view of the castle. It’s not often that I enjoy pan fried stone bass while gazing at a frickin’ castle!!
Not a bad nighttime view! The sun didn’t set until around 10pm.
Edinburgh… I will be back. That, I can promise you.
When you visit the website of jewelry designer Audrius Krulis, you’re greeted with the words, “playful forms evoked by nature; a glimpse into imagination narrated through sculpture.” This sentiment perfectly embodies this line, where precious materials and sculpture intersect.
Audrius, originally from Lithuania, has been working in the jewelry business for over 20 years. He launched his own line about 4 years ago, and I must say that I adore it. I can see how his degrees in sculpture and architecture have translated into gold and gemstones. His rings were the first pieces I ever saw of his work, and it was wonderful seeing a range designs at the JCK show. His work with boulder opals is quite fantastic. The large orange-hued one I tried on is an Ethiopian opal. He told me that the stone dictates the design. And his mind is so active that, “By the time I finish one, I have 5 more ideas!”
At the show, I was excited to see the breadth of his collection. I’d never seen his bangles, these below adorned with ombre sapphires and diamonds.
These hoop drop earrings are convertible to just huggies if you want a more subtle look.
I was happy to check out one of Audrius’ favorite pieces, a blue sapphire and gold bracelet. The mechanics in the construction are just superb, and it felt effortless on my wrist.
Perhaps you’re looking for a diamond necklace you can wear every day? But one that’s more contemporary and not so traditional? He’s got it!
Audrius is basically a one-man shop, with the exception of photography and advertising. I have a feeling his son, Karolis, is instrumental in that department.
Audrius and Karolis Krulis
I can picture some of the people in my livfe just loving these pendants, with their luxe organic feel and autumn-y color palette.
If you’ve been following me for a while, you know I’m always on the lookout for unique stud earrings. I can tell you, I’ve never seen any like these, have you?
Cindy Edelstein was a powerful woman in the world of jewelry. I met her a few times over the years, and I was so impressed with her devotion to both jewelry designers and the industry as a whole. When she tragically passed last year, it left a deep hole in the heart of the jewelry world. The Contemporary Jewelry Design Group (CJDG), in association with Couture, is honoring her legacy with an online jewelry auction, and bidding will be opening tomorrow, May 15, 2017.
There are over 30 unique pieces on the auction block, each generously donated by CJDG members. Proceeds from the auction will benefit Jewelers for Children and the Women’s Jewelry Association Scholarship Fund. Here’s a little more about these recipients:
“Jewelers for Children is a non-profit founded in 1999 by the U.S. jewelry industry with the mission of helping children in need. Since its inception, JFC has donated more than $51 million to programs serving children whose lives have been affected by illness, abuse, or neglect.
The Women’s Jewelry Association established the “Cindy Edelstein Jewelry Design Scholarship” in 2016 to honor Cindy’s unwavering commitment to the WJA and the careers of women. This scholarship, in the amount of $5,000, is awarded annually.”
Bidding runs May 15- June 3 at 4pm. The winners will be announced at the Couture cocktail party following the close of the show at 6:00 pm on June 3, 2017. And don’t worry — you don’t have to be present to win. This auction is open to the public, and the jewelry will be sent to the winning bidders.
Just to tempt you, here are a few of the gorgeous pieces that could be yours….
Skye pendant from Julez Bryant
Knife Edge hoop earrings from Suzy Landa
Pamela Froman yellow and pink gold Scrolls bar necklace with diamonds
Inverted diamond and oxidized silver earrings from TAP by Todd Pownell
Dana Bronfman’s Trina ring in yellow gold with diamonds
Antique Greek coin necklace from Jane Bohan
Raw diamond disc earrings from Todd Reed
So have I got your attention now? I thought so. Head on over to the auction site and bid for both beauty and a great cause.
(Original photo of Cindy by Dario Calmese/ Artwork by Mike Pfeffer)
I became a BIG fan of TAP by Todd Powell after seeing his line at the Union Square location of Gallery of Jewels in San Francisco. My clients were equally adoring, and quite a few of them now proudly have his pieces in their own jewelry box. What really set this line apart for me was how the diamonds are often set upside down. Such a chic way to deconstruct the typical piece of diamond jewelry.
Launched in 2008, this husband/wife team created their line in their live/work space in Cleveland, Ohio. Here’s a shot of their space and team from their website. Looks like a creative wonderland!
When I spoke with them at the Couture show, I asked them who their customer is. Todd responded, “Someone who appreciates something unexpected — a mix of chaos and order. Often it’s a particular diamond that mysteriously draws a person in; the winking and twilight effect in how the diamonds flash.” I totally get that, as I have experienced how certainly pieces seem to magnetically attract me.
You are really the master of setting diamonds “upside down.” How did this become part of your intrinsic style? It’s so cool!
I first started setting smaller single cut diamonds upside down into pieces for a wanted “twinkling” diamond effect in pieces in which I wanted a “night sky” motif or look. As a gemologist, I understood that the pavillion would function as a deep or high-angled rose cut, and the table would then became the “bottom” of the stone in which the light would internally reflect off of in more of a broad flash or winking effect, instead of the usual bling look. The cool factor, as you say, was achieved simply by doing the unexpected, but it was a fully conscious understood decision on my part.
Here’s an out-of-this-world pair of earrings I admired at the Couture show. They feature 8.31 carats of diamonds, ranging from white to grey to subtly colored. It’s a mix of inverted and pin-set stones on a sheet of white gold, backed in yellow gold.
How do you and Debra compliment each other in the jewelry design and making process?
I had a strictly technical goldsmith & stone setting training, and I followed that up with a full graduate gemologist education. Debra is the studio artist and was educated in art history & jewelry studio practices. She spent 7 years in Germany working and maintaining a studio and participating in the gallery scene. The difference and combination of our backgrounds and exposure was especially complimentary in developing our studio practice today. I do most of the initial designing of our current line and Debra fine-tunes our final decisions and does all of our custom wax modeling in studio. She also handles our studio’s internal pubic relations. Our small TAP team and myself do all the fabricating and I final finish each piece. We also both compliment each other in creating a positive working studio environment, which is very enriching for us.
Todd and Debra
I have to share this necklace I was ogling out at the Couture show, made of yellow diamond “slabs” in a mosaic pattern with marquis diamonds in the “cracks.” Can you believe this one-of-a-kind piece?
Do you have any current favorites you’ve been working on?
This wide 18K cuff is brand new and something a little different for us. It is 25mm wide at the top and tapers to 2mm wide. It has a hinge and spring mechanism that opens and closes to wear. The diamonds (3.35cts TW) are bead set into darkened palladium. I like the structure and tension within the design and the bold look of the piece. This is a fresh piece made for the upcoming Couture show.
This line is also a strong force in the world of alternative bridal rings. I tried on this prong set pear-shaped ring, and I could easily envision a bride wearing it. OR…I’d wear it as a right hand ring; you know I’m a big believer in women buying themselves jewelry!
There was such a wide array of styles at the show, it was honestly a bit overwhelming. With the mix of metals, textures and designs, I was in diamond heaven!!
Although I didn’t see this ring in person, I can’t help but falling in love with it. It’s a golden dish full of sparkling treasures.
I hope this look into the world of TAP by Todd Pownell has brightened your day. If you’d like to see some of their work in person, click here for a list of retailers.
Artist? Style Inspiration? I know this title may be a bit confusing, but I think I’ll be able to clarify it for you. Just read on…
It all started at the beginning of the Couture show last year in Las Vegas. I was walking along the hallway between ballrooms, and I saw this woman with an intriguing outfit on — one that really made me think to myself, “Wow — that is something I would love to wear!” Granted, this is an extremely rare thought for me. As a professional wardrobe stylist, I’m constantly surrounded by the latest styles, but very few resonate with me personally. I don’t normally dress like the typical gal out there; I describe my personal style as “urban bohemian,” as I like combining caftans with combat boots, and camouflage with silk and diamonds. When a guy in my town commented, “You don’t dress like people around here,” I took it as a huge compliment.
So here was this woman, looking effortlessly chic in pants, fab jewelry, and a jacket of various shades of white/tan with embellishment that certainly must be haute couture, as I had never seen one like it before. I had to approach her and compliment her look (not knowing that it was Bibi van der Velden). And guess what I found out — she MADE that jacket herself!! Each day I’d see her at the Wynn (where Couture is held), and each day she looked equally unique, wearing some sort of statement jacket. On the last day I was at the show, I finally was able to officially meet her and see her jewelry line (don’t worry — I’ll get to that in a bit).
Do you see what I mean? Her jacket just makes her whole look (along with the necklaces, of course). From what I saw of her during the show, her jackets are integral to her style signature. Bibi has no idea, but taking note of her style has really influenced me. For anyone who knows me, black is my go-to color, along with denim. But suddenly, I started looking for unique, statement jackets to incorporate into my wardrobe. Jackets that suited ME. I didn’t copy her look, but I adapted it to my own aesthetic. And you know what? It’s really been fun! I’ve found quite a few that suit my coloring and personality, and I feel really happy when I wear them. My closet is SO different than it was just a year ago.
Color — who would have ever believed it?!
So this should explain the “Style Inspo” portion of the title. Now, let’s get to the artist part. Bibi van der Velden is way more than simply a jewelry designer. You already know she can design and sew clothing, but I also learned that her field of training is sculpture. In fact, her mom is the accomplished sculptor Michèle Deiters. They work together creating truly unique works of art. You can learn more about their work on BibiMichel.com. As I looked through the gallery on their site, I could really feel the strong and creative mother-daughter bond. (photo by Rahi Rezvani)
Not only is she a seamstress and a sculptor, but this mother of two is ALSO a jewlery designer. (Does she ever have time to sleep??) And let me tell you, her jewelry is as special as she is. I could have spent hours in her booth, trying on each and every piece. The group that first pulled at my heart is her Galaxy Collection. Having a life-long affinity for celestial themes, I tried on this Galaxy Dome Ring, where the gems are pinned under a hand carved rock crystal and surround by rose gold. I couldn’t stop staring into its sparkling depths.
Take a look at the colors, materials and detail in this big Galaxy Opal Ring. You can see why her line is aptly named “Wearable Works of Art!” This ring is truly sculpture for your hand.
I would wear these Galaxy opal earrings in a heartbeat, with everything from a cotton sundress to a black tie gown.
Bibi’s Scarab Collection was also irresistible. If you can believe it, she uses the actual wings from scarab beetles in these pieces. Now don’t worry, no insects were harmed in the creation of the jewelry. In fact, these scarab wings are considered the “leftovers” after eating a particular Thai delicacy. Bibi prides herself on being eco-conscious, and using these wings is right in tune with her ethos. I tried on a bunch of her scarab rings. The iridescence of the wings is quite spectacular.
This collection is especially popular with jewelry-lovers, and it’s one of her top sellers. I can see why. I adore this scarab and pearl bangle. Don’t you love the adornments on the scarab’s wings?
Also in line with her dedication to the environment is her use of 40,000 year old mammoth tusks in her jewelry. Found under the Siberian permafrost, this material is completely transformed in Bibi’s hands. These earrings are part of her Pop Art collection. I bet that mammoth never anticipated he’d be decorated with various hues of sapphires.
Her Jellyfish Collection was inspired by a white jellyfish she saw while traveling. She perfectly captures the essence of this creature in solar quartz and sterling silver.
Finally…and I can’t believe I’m including this, as I’m DEATHLY afraid of spiders…but here are two spider/spiderweb pieces. Though spiders really do freak me out, I couldn’t help but admire the craftsmanship in this necklace and ring.
Finally, I also have to mention Auverture, which is a one-of-a-kind online jewelry store, the likes of which I haven’t seen before. It features the work of 14 ultra-talented designers — things you likely won’t be able to find where you live. It delves into the story behind each piece. Bibi is one of the co-founders of the site. (Seriously, does she have ANY free time?) For a little more about its story, click here.
I hope I have now clarified the title of this article, over 1000 words later. Have you enjoyed this glimpse into the work of Bibi van der Velden? I can’t wait to see what she’s showing at Couture this year!
I’ve been wracking my brain trying to come up with an accurate description of Anthony Lent’s jewelry line — it’s insanely detailed, often outside the box, and unlike anything I’ve seen before. Here’s an excerpt from his website, “He has dedicated his life to the painstaking transformation of visionary images into intricate pieces of wearable art that are among the most detailed and conceptually profound works of jewelry being made today.” Word!
Having studied in both Philadelphia and Germany, Anthony has been designing jewelry for almost 50 years. His sons, David and Max, have joined the entourage and together they’ve been working on the brand since 2013. I feel privileged to have met the family and seen their work at the Couture show.
Max Lent, Anthony Lent, Amy Roseveare and David Lent
Let’s dive into some of the pieces I admired. First up is this “adorned hands” ring with a blue moonstone at its heart. The way the bejeweled hands lovingly hold up the center is simply exquisite.
Or what about this darling gold frog on a leafy, diamond-enhanced ring with a huge fire opal?
I have an increasing affinity for skull jewelry, and I didn’t want to take this skull ring off. I kept playing with how the light reflected through it.
Anthony is very well known for his work with Damascus Steel. It’s a layered steel that you may have seen before in quality knives. Each piece is like a slice of wood and will look different from any other slice.
Faces are a popular motif in the line. Here’s three different (aptly named) “brickface” rings.
How about a couple faces dangling from your earlobes?
Focusing on a single part of the face is also one of Anthony’s fortes. Love these “wandering eye” rings — and, yes, I turned the little one upside down so it could “wander” in the other direction. 😉
I also want to share the “emotions” ring with you. Since there’s no way I can top the description from their website, I’ll share that with you, “The faces in the Anthony Lent Emotions Ring represent the confrontation of “the common eye” with “the uncommon eye,” or with the multiple ways of perceiving and feeling differently about the same thing. The faces evoke a dream state in which ones identity dissolves as well as the open possibilities of psychedelia. They are, perhaps, an expression of what it feels like to experiment with new ideas, strange ideas, and possibly uncomfortable ideas. Some people are afraid of their emotions, after all, and afraid to look into the darker corners of the human psyche. This design is a confrontation with our emotional comfort zone and a celebration of the new dimensions of experience that stepping outside of it enables us to visit.” Did you know that a single piece of jewelry could say so much? Now you know why I love it.
If you’d like to keep up with the latest from Anthony Lent jewlery, I suggest following his Instagram page. What you’ve seen in this article is just the tip of the Anthony Lent iceberg.
I got my first in person look at Sydney Lynch jewelry at De Novo in Palo Alto. I was immediately a fan. The color combinations in this contemporary line are simply gorgeous. You can imagine how excited I was to meet Sydney in person at the JCK show in Las Vegas! I didn’t know what to try on first! Can you believe the statement this boulder opal cuff makes? I couldn’t stop taking photos of it.
Or what about the luminescence in this rainbow moonstone ring?
Sydney began her career in jewelry 1981. She spent time during college working at a Navajo reservation, where she met her first silversmiths. Although she had been a jewelry girl since childhood, this seemed to be the impetus that got her going on her own line. (And I’m so glad it did!) She now resides in Lincoln, Nebraska, where each and every piece is hand-crafted in her studio by her and her assistants — two of which have been with her for over 20 years!
Sydney was born with an acute sense of color, and you can see the result of this talent in her work. Here’s a shot from her website showing her and Tammy working on the layout for some bracelets.
You can see how carefully each gem and hue is placed in order to create a stunning result. Here’s an example of a bracelet from her archives in a parade of blush tones.
In this bracelet, she extends the palette from pinks to browns. Isn’t the result just breathtaking?
If you take a look at Sydney Lynch’s Instagram feed, you can see that nature is a definite influence in her work. It’s not only the colors that inspire her, but the shapes as well. She does, in fact, have a wide array of mixed metal pieces in her collection that would be perfect neutral additions to any jewelry box. Here’s a couple pair of earrings, one with Baroque Tahitian pearls, which would easily complement any color palette.
This bold cuff would add punch to an outfit, don’t you think?
While at the show, this necklace really caught my eye. It would definitely function as a neutral in my own wardrobe.
If you’d like a little inside look at Sydney and her process, take a minute to watch this video.
What you’ve seen here is just the tip of the iceberg, let me tell you! Click here to see a list of retailers. In addition, you may enjoy her journal/blog — I signed up for it, and I love receiving it in my e-mail inbox. Thanks, Sydney, for your time — loved meeting you and seeing your luscious line!
This past Saturday I was supposed to shop with a client, but he unexpectedly had to reschedule. Knowing this would allow me the opportunity to visit the Hillsborough Antique Show in San Mateo, CA, more than made up for this schedule change. I decided to go through the show with my “virtual bottomless wallet” and pick out what I would buy if the sky was the limit. This made the excursion so much fun!
Just a few booths in on the first row I walked down, I found a couple swoon-worthy pieces. First up is this Victorian bracelet from France with angel skin coral and natural pearls. I learned the ornate work in the 18K gold is called “tracery work.” (I am constantly learning new things whenever I speak with such knowledgeable dealers like Lisa!) This bracelet is from A Pocket of Rocks.
At the connecting booth I met Alison from Duvenay. She was showing an exquisite pair of Victorian cut steel earrings from the late 1800’s. I knew a bit about cut steel jewelry, but when I came home, first thing on the agenda was to research it a bit more. This article from Lang’s AJU has a fantastic description of this genre of jewlery. I think these earrings are the perfect way to get a special occasion look with glowing sparkle.
Another booth that drew me in by some sort of jewelry magnetic force was that of Laurel Stearns’ PassItOnLTD. Within just a few moments of chatting we discovered we have a mutual very dear friend, and we’ll both be at her wedding this summer. Is that a small world, or what?! But back to the jewelry…I couldn’t decide between these two rings, and since I didn’t have a limit for this exercise, I chose both! The one on the left is a Victorian navette from around 1890, set in silver wth a 14K shank. The ring on the right features a converted Georgian pin from the late 1700’s-early 1800’s. Which would you choose?
I had to stop at Lenore Dailey’s booth, which always exceeds expectations. The pair of earrings that was calling to me this time around was these late Georgian hand earrings. Do you see the little ruby ring each hand is wearing? So precious and romantic.
I’ve been following TheOneILoveNYC on Instagram for quite some time, but this is the first time I got to meet Mia in person. Boy were her cases brimming with sparkle — tons from the Georgian era! But typical me, who seems so drawn to Victorian jewelry, selected a Portuguese pendant on a long yellow gold chain. I THOUGHT the pendant was Georgian, due to how the diamonds were set, but I was wrong. (So much to learn!) Isn’t it pretty?
Her next-door neighbor was Jewels by Grace, a fantastic vendor whom I’ve had the pleasure to meet at a couple shows in the past year. At her booth, I tried on this diamond and turquoise “tiara” bracelet, which was a very popular motif during Victorian times. How can you not admire the 2.65 ctw of rose cut and old European cut diamonds?
But then…I spied “The Olsen Twins” — a truly remarkable pair of elongated cushion cut diamond earrings totaling 9.46 carats!! I had seen photos of them on Instagram before (such as this one below) and in Grace’s ears, but this time I got to try them on myself. Ack! I truly felt like royalty wearing them. Can you see my virtual crown?!
Near the end of the show, I stopped at Mary Ann-tiques, as I spied a particularly fetching pair of Art Deco earrings. Granted, this is not typically an era I’m drawn to, but this pair of carved rock crystal and onyx earrings had it going on with the mis-matched earring trend that’s so en vogue right now. To give you a sense of their size, I took the photo with my full-sized pen next to them. Pretty incredible, right?
Though I didn’t leave the show with all these stunning pieces, I still got a thrill seeing them and trying them on. Thanks to all the kind dealers who spent time chatting with me, and furthering my education on antique jewelry. If you’d like to learn a little more, you may enjoy articles I’ve written about Georgian and Victorian jewelry. And if you’re interested in attending this show, which is open to the public, it’ll be back in San Mateo July 21-23 and November 3-5.
Sometimes I get so annoyed with myself, when I find out that there has been this amazing studio and gallery under an hour from where I live (since 1993!), and I didn’t visit until now. (Doh!) Thank goodness I finally had the good sense to visit Shibumi Studio & Gallery in Berkeley. What finally got my butt in gear was I saw that they were having a Ruth Tomlinson show. If you’ve been following me, then you know I’m a big fan of hers. In fact, when Ruth posted a particular white gold and diamond ring on her Instagram feed about 4 weeks ago, it was love at first sight. It was with mixed emotions that I got to actually try on said ring at the gallery (even better on my finger!) but then found out it had already sold (drat!). Doesn’t it look quite fetching paired with two of Ruth’s stacking bands? Oh, so “Amy!”
Regardless of the fact that this ring would not be going home with me, I must have spent an hour exploring this space and all the beautiful work it features. The other designer featured for the current show is Heather Palmer, an Oakland-based artist with phenomenal hand-blown glass objects de arte. Here’s a few of her vases accented by driftwood.
Shibumi is owned by April Higashi, an extremely talented jewelry designer. Her collection of rings is out of this world, and I spent some quality time trying them on.
I couldn’t quite take my eyes of the sunset hues of this sapphire ring by April.
If you’re looking for a ring, whether it be for general wear or an engagement ring, then this is a must-stop shop. Take a gander at this case, just brimming with sparkly delight.
There were many artists showing whose work I was familiar with, such as Sam Woehrmann, Tura Sugden, and Polly Wales. But there were also numerous designers that were brand new to me. Can I tell you what a thrill this is? I admired this glass bracelet from Karen Gilbert.
And a rock bracelet by Deborah Boskin that spoke to my nature-loving soul.
Even the gallery itself is beautiful, from the Eric Powell doors as you enter, to the sleek space inside.
And do you see all the drawers in these two banks? Yep..each and every one is filled with jewelry. A veritable treasure trove!
Next time you find yourself in the east bay, I highly encourage you to spend some quality time at Shibumi. And yes, mom, I promise we’ll take a field trip there. You’ll go crazy!!
Wendy Brandes is a force to be reckoned with, in the most positive of ways. I’ve followed her on social media for quite some time, and I’m inspired by both her unique jewelry and her strength of character. When I found out she would be showing at JCK in Las Vegas, I definitely made meeting her a “must do.” I’m so glad I did, as she and her collection were as impressive in person as I had envisioned. I now must share with you some of the most fantastical rings I’ve ever seen before, rife with detail and a story. Without further ado, enjoy this interview with Wendy about her Maneater collection.
I was SO taken with your Maneater rings at the show! Can you tell me a bit about what inspired this collection?
Since childhood, I have been fascinated by biographies of women, especially those of long-ago queens and other powerful female figures. In my first career as a journalist (at the Wall Street Journal, CNN, and People.com) I was, of course, dealing with current events. When I switched to jewelry design in 2006, I realized I had a way to keep telling stories, only now I could tell them about the historical women who had always intrigued me. I started my line with designs inspired by real people, ranging from the queens everyone knows about — Cleopatra, Nefertiti, Anne Boleyn, and Elizabeth I — to women Americans might not be familiar with, including Empress Matilda of England, Queen Min of Korea, and Empress Wu of China.
It was Empress Wu, the 7th-century ruler of China, who led to the Maneater collection. I always liked the fact that during her lifetime, Wu was known as “emperor” — the only female ruler of China to use the male title. Historians have treated her differently from her male peers, the same way they did with other powerful women. You can find supposedly serious history books that refer to Wu (and other women) as a “dragon lady” or “maneater.” (Equally murderous male rulers have no equivalent pejoratives.) I like to take the words used against us and turn them into symbols of power. Besides, who doesn’t love dragons? So I created an 18K yellow gold Empress Wu dragon ring that holds the whole world — represented by a spinning lapis lazuli globe — in its fangs.
That other common insult — “maneater”– still stuck in my mind though. Eventually, I decided that every jewelry design I did didn’t have to represent an actual woman, and that I could create pieces around the theme of female power in general. Thus, the Maneater collection was born.
I believe there are 8 in the series, and I tried on 3 of them at the show: the bull and bullfighter, the pink elephant and Jonah and the whale. Can you give us a little description of each of these?
I originally planned to do a series of eight one-of-a-kind rings — eight being a “power” number if you are into numerology — but then I found a very interesting and large labradorite carving, so now the series is seven rings and a showstopping necklace that uses the carving. The necklace is still in the works.
All of the Maneater rings have a triumphant figure on top of the ring and a small man inside the shank. The Bull and Bullfighter Maneater ring shows a winning bull standing tall over a stadium. If you peek inside the shank, you see the bullfighter standing with his back to us, his cape swirling around him. The rose-gold bull is paved with 350 black diamonds totaling 1.48 carats. I also used 79 white diamonds totaling 0.37 carats. All together, the ring uses 25 grams of 18K rose, yellow, and white gold.
The Pink Elephant and Tipsy Writer Maneater ring won an honorable mention in the Spectrum awards. “White Fang” author and journalist Jack London was the person who came up with the idea that folks who hit the bottle too hard might hallucinate pink elephants. The elephant is covered in 262 pink sapphires totaling 2 carats. She has diamond eyes and a ruby forehead ornament, and she stands on a bar that is set with 174 brown diamonds totaling 2.15 carats. Inside the shank, the writer slumps next to a wine glass, which is adorned with another diamond. I used 23.6 grams of 18K rose, yellow, and white gold in this ring.
For the Jonah and the Whale Maneater ring, a diamond-pave whale with tsavorite eyes surges through a blue-sapphire sea. In the shank, Jonah is curled into the fetal position. I try to do each of the men in the Maneater rings a little differently, and I figured Jonah wasn’t going to be walking around upright in the whale.The yellow and white gold weighs 26.1 grams. I used 86 points of blue sapphires and about half a carat of white diamonds. All of the rings were made with the lost-wax casting process (carved by hand), all of them are one-of-a-kind, and all of them were made in New York City.
I know that you, yourself, are a very powerful woman — from your artistic talent to your convictions. Which of the rings would suit you the best right now? And why?
I don’t like to have to choose a favorite from among my children, but I admit that I always favor the most recently completed design. In the Maneater series, that would be the Dragon and the Knight Maneater ring. (I really do love dragons!) In addition to being the newest Maneater, it’s the most complex Maneater design. In addition to 18K yellow, rose, and white gold, I added platinum to the mix, in the form of a sword clenched in the dragon’s jaws and a skull at her feet. The rose-gold treasure chest opens to reveal the dragon’s hoard of gems, and the wings and the skull also have a little movement to them.
The gold weighs 29.78 grams, and there are 2.8 grams of platinum. There are 400 tsavorites totaling 4.5 carats on the dragon, 52 brown diamonds weighing 52 points on her wings, and white diamonds, rubies, and keshi pearls in the treasure chest. I think it would be rather pretentious to announce to someone in real life, “I am a complex personality!” In fact, I’m positive that most people who know me would say that I’m a very straightforward person. But when it comes to jewelry, the more complicated it is, the more I like it … so analyze that as you wish!
Can you believe this work? Jaw-dropping, to be sure. Wendy has a wide array in her collection, and you can see more at her online shop. I have no doubt that there’s a story behind each and every piece.
Wendy, thank you so much for your time and talent! I truly appreciate you.
