Doryn Wallach is a name you’re going to start hearing more and more often. She made her debut at Centurion, where she was named Emerging Designer of 2016! In addition, she’s one of the Rising Stars who will be showing at the JCK show in Las Vegas this June. Way to make an entrance into the world of jewlery! After two decades as an interior designer, Doryn is now channeling her creativity and love of Art Deco line and design into jewelry. Read below as I asked her a few questions about her and her line.
I see that you’ve had a love of jewelry your whole life. In particular, re-designing pieces to fit in with your lifestyle. What’s one of the most memorable re-designs you recall?
I would have to say the gladiator ring from my collection, because that’s what sparked my career change. It started with a diamond eternity band I rarely wore. This ring was a gift from my husband, and I felt guilty that it spent most of the time hidden away in my jewelry box. So I decided to rework the diamonds into something I would wear every day — the gladiator ring. When people asked me who made it, a light bulb went off in my head.
The transition from your career as an interior designer to a jewelry designer seems so natural. How did you develop your affinity for the Art Deco period? Is this a carry-over from interior design?
When I was growing up outside Boston, my family spent a lot of our winter vacations in Miami. I was the kid who got my mom from point A to point B by remembering the landmarks, so my eyes were always peering out the car window. I fell in love with the architecture of the city — not only the pastel colors, but the lines of the buildings with their geometric and curvilinear forms. Years later, as an interior designer, I always incorporated Deco pieces in my spaces. I love their timeless glamour.
It’s exciting to see what a mark you’re making with your debut collection. What is your current favorite piece?
My agate-and-pearl pendant. I have a deep love for estate jewelry, and I think this piece has an estate feeling as well as a distinctly modern sensibility that allows it to go with almost any piece of clothing – day or night.
What do you find are the most challenging and most rewarding aspects of being a jewelry designer?
For me, the most challenging is simply navigating a new business after spending so many years focused on interior design. Of course, that challenge is also what I love about the change. The most rewarding aspect of designing jewelry is seeing my abstract idea become a tangible object. And I love knowing that a woman will wear the piece for many years and one day, hopefully, pass it down.
When you’re not in the studio working, how do you like to spend your free time? Any favorite hobbies?
When I am not working, I am with my kids, who are five and eight. They take most of my free time! But when I do have a few hours to myself, I love walking around the city, browsing through vintage shops and antique stores and people-watching. It’s very inspiring.
Perusing through her collection, I think her turquoise gladiator bar necklace is one of my faves. I could see it easily layered or worn on its own.
I look forward to meeting you in person at JCK, Doryn — thanks so much for your insight into you and your line!
I’ve had a crush on Brooke Gregson’s jewelry line for many years, and I was lucky to have the opportunity to meet her in person and play with her jewels at the Couture show. Does her name sound familiar to you? You may know her for her well-known woven silk bracelets with gemstones. Simply divine.
The lovely Brooke was raised in California and now lives in London. She has studios both in her Notting Hill neighborhood and in Los Angeles. Since founding her business in 2004, Brooke has always maintained strict quality in all her pieces, each hand-made with the assistance of master craftsmen. I was particularly entranced with her engraved pieces. I don’t know which of these three rings I like better. The engraving is all done by hand, and is inspired by her watercolor paintings. (Yes, she paints too!)
Can you see the wide array of colors in the boulder opals? Brooke carefully selects each stone she works with and often chooses gems which others may have overlooked, as they didn’t seem “perfect enough.” It shows how she can see the beauty within. This substantial cuff is another in her engraved series. No…I did not want to take it off!
The two collections meld together effortlessly, as seen in this stellar stack she posted on her Instagram feed. (If you want a riot of color in your feed, I suggest following Brooke Gregson.)
I was also drawn to her Ziggurat collection, so named for the rectangular stepped temples from ancient Mesopotamia. Here are two rings from this group.
The larger of these two rings is named the Hoffman Boulder Opal Sapphire ring. Don’t you think the color combination is so unique? I think Brooke’s talent in painting and drawing has really opened her eyes to mixing colors in ways that others may not think of.
Here are some Ziggurat necklaces layered together.
Once again, I’m in awe of the colors in this complex Ziggurat necklace, composed of boulder opal, turquoise and pink sapphires. It really pops!
If you’re looking for some alternative bridal rings, one of these may be what you’re looking for. I’ve got on the Eclipse Diamond Ring and the Ziggurat Frame Diamond Ring. Which would you choose?
Truly, this line is organic elegance at its best. It’s a jewelry goal to one day own a piece myself. Thanks so much for spending time with me, Brooke! I look forward to our next meeting.
Todd Reed is quite a legend in the jewelry industry (and not just because of his wavy locks) — but rather for creating a line showcasing raw diamonds long before they were in the limelight. Little did he know the trajectory for his career would begin when he was only 10 years old and was mesmerized seeing a silversmith at work. Throughout his formative years, he was involved in creative endeavors such as leather work, sculpting and even graduating from the culinary academy. Creativity is clearly in his DNA.
Launching his jewelry business in 1992, Todd was on his way to making “Raw Elegance” one of the most popular and sought-after independent jewelry lines. I was thrilled to get an up-close look at some of his work at the Couture show. The first necklace I was drawn to was this one, which looks like river stones. They are all hinged together, so it lays beautifully around the neck. It’s easy to see nature as one of his inspirations. (Yes..all those stones are diamonds!)
Todd is known for his mixed metals and has created a long-lasting patina which keeps the metal blackened. This fabulous cuff is part of his Marquis collection. I wish I could have kept it on and gone home with it!
Here are earrings and a ring from the same Marquis collection.
Based in Boulder, Colorado, there are 20 jewelers now working at the studio! He’s got quite the team, and each item is carefully produced, from the initial design to delivering the finished product to the customer. Todd lays out each stone for each piece. With the amount of diamonds in his work, I can only imagine how much time he spends at his bench creating the ideal combinations. I tried on these two bracelets while at the show. The three-strand one is made of octahedron diamonds, which is a natural pyramid state of raw diamonds.
This statement ring is from his pillbox collection. Wow!
There is a lovely range in Todd’s designs. Earrings such as these are perfect for everyday use, and they’d look equally beautiful for a special night out.
And couldn’t you see this necklace looking fab with jeans and a leather jacket one day, and then with a red cocktail dress the next?
I particularly enjoy Todd Reed’s Instagram feed, and I stopped dead in my scroll when I saw this one-of-a-kind diamond ring recently. Yes, please!
Though Todd’s main base is in Colorado, he’s also opened a sublime studio and store on Abbot Kinney in Venice, CA. It’s most definitely worth the stop if you’re in southern California. And don’t worry if you don’t live near either location. His line is sold at many luxury retailers around the country.
Even though it’s not my birthstone I’m quite partial to the aquamarine, with its oceanic hues of light blue to blue-green. Named after the Latin word “aqua marinus,” meaning water of the sea, this stone is associated with all things ocean. It’s said to protect travelers on the sea, and those traveling near water. Aquamarines come from Brazil and Columbia and are part of the beryl family. Among the qualities associated with this birthstone are:
-self-love
-inspires truth and letting go
-aids in articulation and clear speaking
-helps one release emotional baggage
-stone of courage
-brings peace and serenity
I like it — especially the “letting go” part, as my word for 2016 is release. Given how much I love the shades of aquamarine, I was eager to embark upon my virtual shopping spree and see what I could find. In no particular order…
If I had a bottomless wallet, I think I’d just have to buy them all. Which piece is your favorite? And if you’ve got a birthday this month, may all your birthday wishes come true!
I suppose I should be an expert on amethyst, as my birthday is this month…but I’m not. I enjoyed researching this birthstone and going on my (much-loved) virtual shopping spree. Unlike so many stones which come in a wide range of colors, amethyst really sticks to the purple family, from lavender and lilac to deep purple and red-violet. The amount of iron in the quartz determines the shade of purple. Though I have heard of green amethyst over the years, I learned this is a misnomer. Green amethyst is in fact created by heating a natural amethyst, and its true name is prasiolite. (Click here for a more detailed description.)
Amethyst comes from the Greek word meaning “without drunkenness” and has often been referred to as the sobriety stone. It can be transparent or opaque (didn’t know that!), and it has some potent qualities, such as:
-guards against overindulgence
-aids with curing addictions
-it is “nature’s tranquilizer,” helping soothe the mind and emotions
-brings the wearer balance and peace
-wonderful in meditation, as it opens the channels between realms
-enhances intuition and psychic ability
Having this new knowledge in mind, I set off on my quest for amethyst jewelry. With colored stones currently so en vogue, I was surprised there weren’t more pieces to be found. Many popular jewelry sites I visited didn’t have a single amethyst piece. (What?!) I have a feeling this is going to change with the coming season. I know many designers are amping up their color game. Nonetheless, I found many items I would be very happy to have in my own jewelry box. In no particular order:
So what do you think? Do any of these gems spark your interest? I guess it’s time for me to find my self-gift for my birthday! (But where is my bottomless wallet??) Sending warm birthday wishes to my fellow February-ians. (Yes, I just made up that name.)
Each year when Valentine’s Day rolls around, it’s not my single-ness that first pops into my mind, but rather, “Yay!! It’s time for another self-prezzie!” If you’ve been following me for any length of time, you know I’m a firm believer in what I call The Boyfriend Gift. In a nutshell, when important days come along (or heck, even a Tuesday, for that matter!) I use the opportunity to treat myself to a new piece of jewlery…because why should I have no boyfriend AND no jewelry? There’s nothing right about that! I may not be able to do anything about the boyfriend situation, but I can certainly do something about the jewelry situation. So any money I would have spent on the boyfriend, I spend on myself.
To give you some jewelry inspiration, I thought I’d take it back to my Jewelry Box Basics format, which is a series I began back in 2013. In this series, I describe 6 different personal styles, and then I suggest pieces of jewelry which would be harmonious with that style. Granted, no one fits in any one box, so please use these as general guidelines. To catch up to date, click on each of these styles to read more in depth: The Lady Who Lunches, The Bohemian, The Rock Star, The Minimalist, The Romantic, and The Trendy Gal.
Without further ado, here’s some ideas for each personal style…
During my 17+ years as a wardrobe stylist, I’ve learned that this woman likes high quality, and having something that’s a name brand doesn’t hurt. They don’t want to be ostentatious, but rather tastefully elegant. This Chopard rose gold bracelet with two hearts, one of coral and the other with a moving diamond, hits this desired note. Equally lovely worn alone or in a stack.
The Bohemian gal wouldn’t likely gravitate toward traditional heart jewelry. Instead, taking inspiration from Cupid’s arrow sounds much more up her alley. These bold arrow rings from Otto Jewels are very chic, from the finish on the metal to the sparkles. Yes, please!
I feel like I practically know Marla just from her fabulous Instagram feed. I’m obsessed with her line of locks, which come in a variety of sizes, metals, and even embellished with gems. Her heart locks are ideal for the rocker in you and would be killer layered up with some of your other fave necklaces.
The Romantic personal style is most certainly drawn to vintage and antique jewelry. When I came across this clever ring, I was instantly intrigued. It has two clasping hands, which swivel open to reveal the sweetest of hearts. Don’t you just love it? The sentimentality and the history would definitely resonate with a Romantic’s heart, as well as her personal style.
The true Minimalist has the smallest jewelry collection of all the styles. She usually has her “uniform” of jewelry she wears each day, which may be as simple as a watch and a pair of stud earrings that are never changed. This is not to say that this woman lacks fun in her life, so I think if this gal wanted to give herself a Valentine-themed treat, it would be in the form of the most delicate and simple heart ring. I found two I really like. The open heart is in 14K rose gold, from Ariel Gordon, and Jennifer Meyer has a precious 18K gold ring with a singular, solid heart.
This personal style likes to play, experiment and have some fun with fashion. What a better way to show a little sass than with this Alison Lou necklace? It’s surely a conversation starter with its ruby lips and fancy lashes. It makes me smile just looking at it.
Now that you’ve taken a glance at these categories, which personal style seems to suit you most? Has it inspired you to visit your local jewelry store this week? I certainly hope so! Have fun shopping and Happy Valentine’s Day to you all!
Call me crazy, but not a day goes without me wearing either labradorite, moonstone, quartz (rock crystal) or raw, organic colored diamonds (grey, cognac, black, etc.). Some days, I’m wearing all of them at once! But you currently can’t pay me to wear a ruby, lapis or emerald. Why is this? I’ve been thinking about it a lot. Here’s what I’ve concluded — if you really listen to your body, it will tell you what you need. These needs include nutrition, activity and yes, even the gems you wear.
There’s a reason this Audrius Krulis grey diamond ring beckoned me from inside the case!
Some days my body will tell me to get out for a hike and eat salmon and veggies for lunch. Other days, my body wants to relax on the couch and have some comfort food. (I try to accommodate its wishes.) I know it’s often difficult to listen to what messages your body is giving in this fast-paced, somewhat chaotic world. It’s even harder to listen and not argue with the message. But in the long run, I think being in tune with oneself is a great gift, leading to a happier, healthier life.
I recall back in 2010 my hairdresser broke the news to me that I had lost about half my hair. (I was wondering why I was suddenly getting sunburns on my scalp!) This is just about the time when I HAD to wear rutilated quartz every day, and I had no idea why. And guess what…it turns out rutilated quartz promotes hair growth. I got chills when I discovered this fact.
Given what I’ve come to believe, I wanted to investigate what these four crystals could possibly mean for me. A great place to start is this poster I received from Jacquie Aiche at the Couture show. It shows different gems, and what chakra they are attuned to. On the back, it has some information about each gem, along with a list and description of others.
Labradorite
This gem truly makes my heart sing, especially when I put it on. The mystical depths of blue-greens remind me of the sea, and I love how each stone has its own unique beauty. I started craving it on my body just a couple years ago.
This stone has a very high vibration and is instrumental in helping one open spiritual pathways and explore intuition and psychic abilities. It’s a gem of transformation. It’s also an excellent stone of protection, shielding oneself from negative energies. All of these things definitely resonate with me, and they are areas I have been putting attention toward. Interesting….
Moonstone
I started craving this stone about 5 years ago, just after my best friend was murdered. I found a moonstone ring in a consignment store, and as soon as I saw it, I knew I’d leave wearing it, no matter what it cost. Quite a visceral reaction, right? As I started researching moonstone, I was certainly not surprised to read, “It is a stone of calm and relief from emotional stress.” It was one of the most stressful periods in my life, and wearing that ring truly makes me feel better — more grounded.
Moonstone also is associated with “goddess energy,” bringing balance between masculine and feminine energy. It encourages love and passion. Yes, I can use more of that in my life, so I’ll continue to wear it! It’s said to be even more powerful when worn during the full moon. Noted.
Clear Quartz
My love of clear quartz, also known as rock crystal, has a long history in my life. One of the first purchases I made in 1987, when I moved to Los Angeles for college, was a crystal pendant, which I wore on a long silver chain around my neck for years. I felt naked without it. Now almost 30 years later, I’m as drawn to the stone as ever. What does it mean?
Though it’s one of the most common stones in the world, that doesn’t diminish its high vibration. It helps open one’s mind and heart to higher guidance. It also amplifies the powers of other stones. I take this to mean that it would strengthen the powers in the stones in other pieces of jewelry worn at the same time. It is also a very healing stone, which is always a good thing in my book!
It’s a crystal that provides clarity and protection from negative energy. Interesting, as that’s the second stone to have that property on my short list! I know that I’m a very sensitive person, and I often absorb the energy from people around me. Though that can sometimes be a good thing, it can also be a not-so-good thing. I guess my labradorite and rock crystal help shield me from the not-so-good.
Diamond
I’m not talking about traditional white diamonds, but rather those that are in the more earthy tones, from brown to grey to even black. I’m drawn to those with an organic feel, not overly polished, but more of a raw or rose-cut variety. According to Jacquie’s chart, ” A diamond is one of the most powerful crystals in the universe. Diamond is a protector, an enhancer and amplifies the strength of all other crystals.” Wow–another similar meaning. It seems all my gems are empowering each other and protecting me!
Diamonds also help relieve stress, anxiety and nightmares. This is interesting, as I suffer from horrible nightmares. I’m going to try and wear some to bed! This gem also encourages abundance and love, another overlap with moonstone.
I’m going to continue researching this topic, as I am very intrigued. What about you? What gems MUST you wear or have around you? Which ones can you do without? And has this changed over time? I would love to hear your thoughts.
#RoughBeauty is the hashtag you’ll find on Variance Objects’ Instagram feed. (Click here to see their images.) It’s the perfect description of this line from Santa Cruz, California, with its semi-raw stones set in oxidized silver and various shades of gold. The juxtaposition of rough and beauty suddenly makes perfect sense when you see the jewelry in person; it’s raw, yet sophisticated. It’s wonderful.
I had the pleasure of meeting Nicole Rimedio, the designer, and her partner, Scott Zankman, who runs the business side of things and takes the stunning photographs of each piece, during their trunk show at Metier in San Francisco.
Nicole, Amy and Scott
I’m pleased to share some Q & A I had with Nicole:
I know you have a background in landscape architecture. How and why did you make the career switch to jewelry designer in 2013?
Well, there are at least two ways of looking at it. One is that I realized through being in graduate school and working some in landscape architecture offices that it wasn’t what I wanted to do with my life. The people working there didn’t seem happy or inspired. The other way to see it is that I always wanted to make jewelry, and being involved in what I didn’t want, made me realize what I have always loved doing. How did I make the switch? I just started…
Are you a self-taught jeweler?
Yes, mostly. I’ve taken some courses in metalsmithing but my way of doing metal work is self-taught. I used the skills I learned in these classes, but I sort of deconstructed them. Jewelry making is about order of operations. I just took some of the steps out and added others. I did the same thing with priorities. The teachers taught what was most important in the process; I changed it up some.
I am completely self-taught as a stone cutter. I did watch some youtube videos and talk to people working in rock shops but never took a class. By the time I started cutting stones, I knew how I wanted them to look and how I wanted to do it. I knew my way of cutting would be an alternative.
Has jewelry always been a passion for you?
Yes. Many of my earliest memories involve jewels or stones in some way. As a child, I used to carry stones in my pockets. I really cannot remember a time when jewelry wasn’t of great interest to me. As I already mentioned, I tried to take a more traditional road, but I was miserable. Now I’m not. Ha.
What do you find the biggest challenges and rewards are as a jewelry designer?
The rewards and challenges are really the same thing. As a jeweler and business owner, I feel like Scott and me are on a great adventure together. It’s a wonderful and exciting endeavor. At the same time, there’s so many aspects of it all we don’t have control over. The things we do have the ability to impact, have so many details to them. Variance is our baby; we want to do it right.
You and Scott live in Santa Cruz, CA, which is an area I adore! What’s your favorite:
Restaurant?Probably Bantam but if I really want amazing food, I go to SF. If I want love in my food, then Scott cooks it.
Retail Store?Cameron Marks – easy but sophisticated clothes, great objects and paper goods too. Also, there’s Judi Wyant Antiques. They have a great selection of antique jewelry with a focus on Victorian jewelry and unusual stuff.
Place for a great view (maybe with a cocktail?)I’m a big fan of just sitting on West Cliff Drive and looking out at the ocean.
So are you intrigued now? I bet you are! You can find out more about Variance Objects on their website. Oh, and while I took the photos in this article while at the trunk show, I have to share one of Scott’s professional pictures he recently shared on Instagram–over 5 carats of rose cut diamonds. Deeeee-lish!
Nicole and Scott, it was an absolute pleasure to meet you both and learn about the line!!
With the ever-increasing popularity of multiple piercings, stud earrings are gaining a lot of momentum in the jewelry world. I have to say they’ve certainly become a staple for me this past year or so. Especially during winter, when I often have scarves wrapped high around my neck, stud earrings give sparkle without getting in the way of my outfit. When you think about building your stud wardrobe, I suggest you start with your metal of choice (silver or gold) with neutral colored stones. As you build your collection, then it makes sense to start adding in more color. I’m going to share 11 hot looks, many of which have been road-tested by either yours truly or by one of my clients. This selection ranges from $165-$2000, and they are listed in order of price, lowest to highest.
First up are these Sharon Zimmerman “In the Rough” recycled diamond stud earrings in 14K gold. Hand made right here in San Francisco, I love the eco-friendly aspect that they are from recycled materials. Sold in singles or as a pair, I bought one for my second piercing, and I love it! It’s only 5mm in diameter so perfect for piercings higher up on your ear.
Corey Egan, another San Francisco designer, created these studs with a unique hand-carved shape. They are offered in both brushed silver or oxidized silver. Which would you choose?
Melissa Joy Manning, who has stores both in Berkeley, CA and Soho in NYC, is the queen of organic beauty. Last fall when I was working in New York, I picked up this pair of pyrite and yellow gold studs. I’ve been amazed at how effortlessly they blend with my wardrobe. The pyrite has a cooler tone, but it’s warmed up with the pyrite. I get constant compliments on them.
Though I’ve yet to see Alexis Russell jewelry live, I’ve visited her website more than a few times. This tiny trio of diamonds is such a cool alternative to the traditional singular diamond stud. You can order them in yellow or rose gold. They would be perfect on their own, or as a lovely compliment higher up on your ear.
Kendra Renee has a fashion-forward take on the stud with her white topaz and gold pyramid studs. It would be fun to play with the angle you wear them — either vertically, horizontally or slanted.
Have you been to Lauren Wolf’s store, Esqueleto, in Oakland? (And she now has one in LA too!) Her store carries a wide array of jewelry, both vintage and new, as well as curated objects de art. But I digress…Lauren’s octagonal rutilated quartz studs in yellow gold are fabulous. They truly have a presence when worn.
Meredith Marks makes her Jacklyn studs in a variety of stone combinations. This particular pair combines grey moonstone with black diamonds, but there are eight varieties currently available on her website. The price varies with the type of stones in the earring.
This list would not be complete without Nak Armstrong’s rainbow moonstone pyramid earrings. When Nak was having a trunk show at Barney’s in San Francisco I, of course, had to stop by. He selected these for me to try on, and I knew I had to invest in them right there on the spot. Though they weren’t inexpensive, I’ve worn them so many times, the cost-per-wear has dropped significantly. (In a few years, they’ll basically be free!) If you have small earlobes like I do, then the curved design of the earring gracefully cups your earlobe. Architectural genius!
Tura Sugden is a master with the German blow torch. When I visited her at her studio, I was dazzled by her diamond slice earrings. The cage-like setting really takes the diamond slice to the next level. My client who purchased a pair agrees, as I know they’ve become one of her go-to pieces of jewelry.
Black diamonds are definitely both avant-garde and chic in my book. When combined with white gold by Sethi Couture, you’ve got an alternative classic design on your hands. (or in your ears, for that matter) The rose cut diamonds create a black glow, rather than a harsh, black look. Perfection.
I conclude this list with a pair by English designer Polly Wales. The way she sets white sapphires in 18K gold in such a sophisticated yet unstructured way is awe-inspiring. Jaw-meet-floor.
Though I could go on and on with stud suggestions, I’ve got to stop here. As you contemplate what earrings to add to your jewelry box, I urge you to ONLY buy what you love — what makes your heart truly sing. These are the purchases which will go the distance for you. Don’t settle. Be patient and save up for what will work best for you. I promise you’ll be happier in the long run.
How is it that December has FOUR birthstones? If you’re lucky enough to be born this month, then you can choose from tanzanite, turquoise, zircon and blue topaz. With it’s blue-violet hue, tanzanite is the subject of today’s article. Coming from only one place on the planet (Tanzania in East Africa), I was surprised to find out that this gem can actually be found in browns and yellows. It is heat, either from the earth or by man, which changes the stone to the most prized blue-violet color. Originally discovered in 1967, this stone is both rare, valuable, and fairly fragile. (Translation: Use care when wearing and never put it in an ultrasonic cleaner!)
Tanzanite is known as the stone of transformation, aiding in metaphysical healing and spiritual exploration. In addition, tanzanite helps with:
-happiness and freedom from worry
-compassion
-finding your calling
-getting rid of old patterns and opening oneself to growth
-self-awareness
-strengthens your immune system
I’m in! Are you? If so, here are some fantastic tanzanite creations by some very talented designers.
I think these selections will resonate with a wide variety of personal styles — from edgy to bohemian to luxe and beyond. If you had the *infamous* bottomless wallet that I dream about having, which piece would you desire most? Do tell!
