Do you recall seeing Jennifer Hudson in this fabulous necklace at the Grammy’s? It was one of my favorite looks of the evening, and this year at Couture, I was able to meet Maral Artinian, the co-founder and curator of Marli, the name behind the diamonds.
Marli elegantly combines minimalism with architectural and pop-culture inspiration in 18K gold and diamonds. Though Maral studied psychology in Montreal, she has found her passion in jewelry. It must be in the blood, as both her father and brother are jewelers as well. The first thing I tried on were these two bracelets, the Cleo and Dahlia. So comfy, yet blingy at the same time!
Here’s a better view of the Dahlia bracelet.
This bracelet features the” Y” shape, which is a signature in her designs. Not only is it a very strong, powerful shape, but its use of positive and negative space reflects the shadow and reflection of the Chrysler building. Constantly being inspired by the streets of NYC, Marli definitely has her pulse on the beat of the modern woman.
Dahlia ring
When I first looked at her pyramid bracelets, I didn’t realize they had moving parts. Take a peek at this 9 second video that shows how they move.
She recently posted this bracelet stack on Instagram, which showcases other variations of the design.
Speaking of Instagram, I reposted her diamond Vine cuff on my feed, and it’s among my most popular posts ever.
I wish I had tried on her Ipsilo white gold and diamond collar. The Ipsilo collection is, “..characterized by distinctive “Y” shaped motifs and triangular cut-outs; the collection is inspired by the work of Rudi Gernreich and highlights our interest in the juxtaposition of positive and negative space, and the resulting shapes that are consequently formed.” Simply fantastic.
Ipsilo collar
I also have to share a couple avant garde ear cuffs with you. The first is from the Avventura (meaning adventure in Italian) collection. I can only imagine how the diamonds sway when you walk.
And how about the Iris cuff, which wraps your ear in diamonds in such a unique way. I would SO wear this!
Actually, I’d pretty much wear every single item in her cases! It was a pleasure meeting Maral and getting an up-close look at the line. And next time I’m in NYC, I’m going to check out her favorite restaurant, Felix, down in Soho. (She said it’s great food, and she met her boyfriend there — gotta love that!)
You may recall reading about Jacquie Aiche about a year ago, when I posted an article about her here on the blog. I was eager to visit her at Couture this year to see her latest and greatest, and she did not disappoint!
Before I could start looking around, I had to first inspect what she, herself, was wearing!
Did she really bling out an antique watch? Yes…she did!
Jacquie showing me her new amethyst crystal necklaces
Her crystal necklaces wrapped in diamonds are dreamy–shown in the bottom two necklaces in the photo below. Yes, please!
The necklace on the bottom is now on my jewelry lust list!
These carved agate arrowheads with diamonds are unique and versatile.
And how about these sugilite earrings?? (Yep…another gem I had never heard of before!)
The way Jacquie took hoop earrings to the next level is awesome.
Her booth was filled with a riot of color, and I couldn’t resist trying on a few rings.
If you know me or have been following me for a while, then you’re aware that the ocean and jewelry are two of my favorite things in life. When you combine the two, I’m in heaven, which is exactly how I feel about Dezso by Sara Beltran. The first time I saw images of her pieces a few years ago, I tracked down where they were sold, because I had to see them in person! While on vacation down in Santa Barbara I made a side trip to a boutique in a nearby town who carried her line. They did have two of her rings (which unfortunately didn’t fit me), but I was on the quest for her colorful Mexican bracelets, which is what she first became known for.
The way she combines the woven bracelets with the carved shell amulets, inlaid with polki diamonds, is luxe and beachy at the same time. What more could I want? Though I didn’t make a purchase that day, I knew that one day I’d have to own something by her. I was thrilled to see she was on the roster for Couture this year. Meeting her, and her production woman, Regina, was awesome. They are both so down to earth, and I could have chatted with them all day.
Regina, Sara, and Amy
Though Sara began her career as a stylist, she made the full-time switch to jewelry designing in 2009. While she was studying fashion merchandising, she started making necklaces. One of the first times she was noticed for her jewelry was when photographer Bruce Weber spotted her wearing one of her own designs and wanted it. Nice!
Her line is inspired by the ocean, and her travels around the globe to different beaches surely provide her with endless ideas. She prefers to use natural materials, from fossils to shark teeth. This one-of-a-kind necklace is made from a boar tusk with polki diamonds. Notice the shark fin detail carved into the gold. This is a motif seen in many pieces in her collection.
I’ve never seen coral and diamonds used in such an imaginative way in a ring, have you?
This necklace, with it’s deep purple hue, even has a surprise on the back, with Sara’s signature and another diamond.
This is the “tiara” necklace, with gold shark teeth and diamonds. It’s definitely fit for a royal mermaid!
She was showing a lovely collection of charms, which I think is a great way to start adding some Dezso (the Latin word for desire) to your life.
She also has numerous cuffs, with organic forms on either end — perfect in a stack or on their own.
Art Deco is also an influence in this line, as seen in these pearl drop earrings. She has her signature shark fin motif in enamel combined with Tahitian pearls. It takes true creativity to blend Art Deco with the ocean, and she nails it.
This “Jali Collar” necklace displays the same idea, in her signature rose gold, black enamel and diamonds.
Sara has an studio in the CFDA building in NYC, though she is primarily based in Jaipur, India, where production takes place. Her passion and creativity go beyond jewelry. In speaking with her, I learned she recently styled an entire hotel in Saint-Tropez from furniture to curating the menu. Amazing!
If you’d like a glimpse into her exotic life, you may enjoy following her on Instagram. I love her artistic photographs and catching a peek into what inspires her. And of course…seeing the jewlery.
One of her Instagram shots
Dezso by Sara Beltran is sold in various stores around the globe. (Click here for a list of stockists.) If you’re in the San Francisco Bay Area, I know that Angela in Menlo Park also just started carrying some of her work. I’ll definitely be stopping by to see what they have!
It’s not often I see a line which renders me speechless, but when I saw Lydia Courteille’s line at the Couture show, I was dumbstruck. This is something you’d see in a museum — certainly nothing like I’d ever seen in my day-to-day shopping. It’s completely fitting that her tag line on her website is “rare jewelry,” as that’s indeed what it is. And here I was, meeting Lydia and trying on her gems. Life is pretty darn amazing sometimes.
This Paris-based designer has that quintessential je ne sais quoi about her, and I was enchanted. The first ring I tried on was sublime. Here’s a couple different views.
Have you ever seen anything like it? The dimension and the strata of color had me twirling my hand around to appreciate its depths.
Rubellite, a rare red tourmaline, is currently her favorite stone, and she has a splendid collection utilizing it called “Scarlet Empress.” It’s inspired by the Russian Empress Catherine II, and she incorporates both fantasy and the 18th Century in her designs. Here’s an example from the group, showing the color and intricacy of the work in red-coated gold, rubies and spinel.
In speaking with Lydia about her inspiration, she talked about everything from savoring time in a boat on the floating gardens of Xochimilco in Mexico to all the time spent in museums. Her travels have certainly brought a fantastical essence to her designs, as seen in this 3-part ring which she told me is, “magma on the sun.”
I love how ahead of the curve she is. In fact, I think she may be one of the true visionaries in wearing one dramatic earring. Here, she showed me two different styles of “Chinese Kite” earrings, which are fab worn one at a time, with something simple on the other ear.
The sea is also a big inspiration, and one I can most definitely relate to. How lovely are these earrings, with adjoining seahorses.
Lydia told me she is always in search of stones. She puts them all into a big box, and when she feels she has enough, she lets creativity take over. She feels a strong “pull” and puts her own culture into her designs. She feels that “jewelry is a team story,” from the workshops to the PR team, and “success is a result of everyone.” I so appreciate how her passion was bursting forth during our interview. It was an immense pleasure meeting her.
It is true… back in the 90’s when I taught third grade, I had a BIG collection of holiday jewelry. I had wood cut-out necklaces and earrings for every occasion, and even some battery-powered pieces that my students loved. Now that I’m no longer working with little ones, I gave away my collection long ago, because let’s face it…it’s clearly not my personal style! But that’s not to say that you can’t find a more subtle way to celebrate with your jewelry. With the Fourth of July almost upon us, I thought it would be fun to explore options with a star motif. Granted, these would be good all year round, but extra special while watching fireworks burst overhead, don’t you think?
I definitely took note of the earrings Carey Mulligan was wearing on the cover of Vogue in May. They were so pretty, a bit vintage looking, and just the right complement to the dress. Little did I know that a just over a month later, I’d be meeting Marie-Juliette Bird, the designer of these beauties.
The line, Blackbird and the Snow, was showing at JCK and I was very excited to see it live. The pieces have a definite Victorian old-world aesthetic with a modern twist. These Celestial earrings were simply glowing, from the cabochon moonstones to the diamonds. And how unique is the display using an old picture frame?!
These mesmerizing cabochons were also divine in these Full Moon rings. The one with a blue hue is a rare ceylon moonstone, alongside a lighter colored moonstone set in gold. Equally dreamy, don’t you think?
Marie-Juliette spent 8 years apprenticing in London for David Courts, who is known for creating the original Keith Richards skull ring. During her years abroad, she began collecting antique Victorian charms. These precious purchases now serve as the inspiration for her line, which is completely hand fabricated in the USA. She was wearing her current favorite piece, which is the Flying Swallows necklace with diamonds.
I thought the Fancy Bird necklaces with a singular swallow were just darling — especially the turquoise one! I would totally layer that with other necklaces to create a nature-inspired mix.
Nature is a driving force behind the line, and “…is an ode to the natural world; the pieces express a connection to the wilderness and a desire to immortalize elements -birds, insects, wings, stars, moons – that serve as the living, elemental poetry of our world.” The heavens are represented in these necklaces. The rosecut gems really make them glisten, just like the stars in the night sky.
I couldn’t help but notice the sweet hoops she was wearing as well, with a turquoise bird gracing her lobe. It’s quite a clever design, as it would cover any elongated piercings you may have.
I was very curious about the name of this jewelry line. She explained that she sees her life as a tree, with different creative projects being different branches. Her band, Blackbird and the Storm is one branch, and her jewelry line is another. Creative to the core, this Boulder, CO-based artist is just beginning (2.5 in business now), and I can’t wait to see what she comes up with next. Thank you so much for your time and letting me try everything on!
On Saturday I popped into the city to meet Delphine Richagneux, the new CEO of Manika. Now as you may know, I’ve been a fan of Manika since they first opened on Maiden Lane back in 2006. Not only do they have a new CEO, but they have they moved to a chic space on Market St. in the Palace Hotel. Of course, while I was there I had to imagine that I once again had a bottomless wallet — what would I buy?? Here’s my five picks, in no particular order
Jenny Reeves Seafoam Cuff in oxidized silver, 18K gold, chrysocolla and diamonds
How great does it look paired with the two rings I was wearing? (by Zaiken and Arik Kastan)
Jamie Joseph grey moonstone necklace, because it’s perfect for layering
Kanwar Creations cabochon rings…couldn’t decide between the tanzanite or the spessartite garnet
Mary Ray Cactus Drop earrings of gold and diamonds — so fun!
Of course, I could have had 20+ items on my list, but I had a limited amount of time. Great meeting Delphine, Kira and Jenny! If you’d like to get to know the store, then definitely come out for a fun event they’re having on Thursday, July 16, from 5-8. Click here for more details. I’ll be there fore sure!
When I think of Jamie Joseph, I think color! I envision handfuls of rings in every hue, as perfectly shown in this photo from their cool Instagram feed.
At the end of one particular day at Couture, I briefly was introduced to Jamie and her husband, Jeremy, by Melissa Joy Manning. I promised to come back the following day for the full tour of the line. Though Jamie was off buying stones when I came back, (Jeremy said, “She is a stone hound!”) I was able to spend some quality time with Jeremy getting the whole backstory on them and the jewels.
It turns out this story goes way back, all the way to the University of Kansas, where they met when they were only 20 years old! Jamie was getting her degree in economics, though she managed to take a singular jewelry making class. When they embarked on a “destiny trip” they landed in Seattle. They traveled until everything felt right, and things just fell into place, from a job to a great place to live. Jamie, though, lasted only one week interning at Merrill Lynch, and she soon found her new path in jewelry. (I’m so glad she took that class in college!)
Studying at the Jewelry Arts Institute in NYC, Jamie really started developing her craft. All the meanwhile, Jeremy was busy with his woodworking. (Quite handy, as he built her bench and studio.) Back in the day, they would sell their wares (sterling silver dancing bear earrings and wooden wands) at Grateful Dead shows. Everything would sell out. Her earrings were a hot commodity.
Fast forward to the 1990’s, and Jamie was spotted by a retailer, wearing a ring of her own design. He quickly sold all six rings she gave him, and that’s when things really started taking off. Soon, Jeremy found himself learning to cut stones. He told me that it was trial by fire — he started cutting Peruvian opal, and kept practicing until he got it right. For the past 13 years, Jeremy has been the full-time stone cutter for the line, and if I must say, he’s pretty darn fabulous at it.
This is the Dahlia ring, which is one of their signature styles. This particular one is a round hand-faceted carnelian with a bezel-set diamond, set in 14K gold on a sterling silver band. Jeremy commented that the diamond is the “beauty mark” on the ring. Adorbs!
Though color is a powerful theme in their line, I was also (no surprise) drawn to the range of neutral shades. Neutrals are my vibe!
The new collection they were showing features stones that have cracks through them, with artistic 22K gold detailing. I think they’re fabulous! Truly unique.
They came up with this idea when a boulder opal he was cutting broke in half. (Yikes!) Apparently, there have been quite a few broken bits along the way, and they live in an African wooden bowl in their studio called “The Boneyard.”
They started turning these “mistakes” into amazing new designs. I think the back of the pieces are just as pretty.
And take a look at the necklaces as well.
Speaking of necklaces, they also have a lovely collection of multi-prong twin teardrop lockets. They come in a range of stones. Here are a few — in rock crystal, pyrite, and lapis lazuli.
I couldn’t resist trying on this Galaxy cuff with the dreamiest of opals.
By now, you may be VERY ready to see this line in person. Lucky for you, they sell at retailers across the globe. Click here to find a location near you. They also are represented in many online shops, if you prefer to shop from the comfort of your living room.
Thank you very much, Jeremy, for spending so much time with me and sharing the story behind the brand!
Over the weekend, I had had the opportunity to attend West Coast Craft for the first time, held at Ft. Mason in San Francisco. According to their website the fair is, “…a craft and design show featuring carefully selected designers, artists, and crafts people inspired by the mood and aesthetics of the West Coast lifestyle. Cool but sunny, laid-back yet innovative, they represent the best of West Coast craft.”
The booths ranged from hand-carved spoons to eco-friendly clothing to jewelry(!) to surfboards and more. I was most definitely surrounded by the craftiest hipsters of the Bay Area. Was I hip enough to be here?! Not so sure…
Though when I spy a jewelry booth, there’s nothing else in my mind except seeing the line. The first one I encountered was Gabriela Artigas, who I’ve been following on Instagram for quite some time. It’s always fun to see things in person that you’ve only seen in a little photo on your phone. Her designs are clean, current, and edgy.
Strolling along the first row, I was also loving the necklaces with horsehair tassels by Faye Kendall.
I had to stop and try on these brass, quartz, and crushed pyrite cuffs by Dea Dia.
Meeting Corey Egan in person was definitely a highlight of the show, as I’ve been following her online for quite some time.
I was also completely in love with the hair pins by her neighbor, Kirsten Muenster.
There were so many talented artists displaying their wares. After two laps around the show, I decided I had to go home with this set of stacking bowls by Portland artist, Relm Studios. It’s been quite a while since I’ve added any decor to my little apartment, and I smile when looking at them.
If you want to check out this fair, it’s held twice a year in San Francisco, so be sure to check their website for show information.
You may be asking yourself, “What’s a jewelry concierge?” I was wondering the same thing as I headed to meet Gigi Gruber for lunch in downtown San Francisco last week. Was she a designer? Was she a goldsmith? I was unclear. Well after a delightful meeting, I was really excited about Gigi’s talent and business model. I think it’s one that you’ll find intriguing as well. Here, Gigi answers questions that will help explain how she brings beautiful jewelry to her clients.
Gigi from Atelier Gigi
I know that you have a long history in the jewelry business. Can you tell me about that?
I’ve been designing and working one-on-one with clients for over 15 years now. Like many other designers, I entered the business through the wonderful and (relatively) inexpensive world of beads. I’ve trained at the Revere Academy and other well-known schools, and I’ve been lucky enough to have had some amazing mentors along the way. My first fine jewelry job was at PAVÉ in Berkeley, and it was a fantastic training ground. After 5 years at PAVÉ, I became the Director of Design and Sales at Kathleen Dughi in Mill Valley. This position afforded me an amazing opportunity to design for some very experienced shoppers who had the taste and budget to select only the finest things. Kathleen Dughi has strong ties to Wilkes Bashford (now owned by Mitchell’s), and my designs were sold to prominent clients of theirs as well.
I’m SO intrigued by the whole concept of a jewelry concierge. Since you’re not actually making jewelry yourself, can you please tell me about your process when working with clients?
After a few years of goldsmithing, I realized it would take me a decade (or two!) to get to a point where I could make the level of work I expect from others. My natural talents in this field are designing and helping others actualize their jewelry aesthetic into a functional piece of art, so I decided to focus on my strengths. I have a detailed description of my process on my website, but in general, it goes like this:
1. A client finds me through a referral, my website, Yelp!, etc. We meet at my office, or I meet them at a location of their choosing. (This is where the concierge part of my business comes in.)
2. The client shares their ultimate end goal with me. (For example, a custom engagement ring for her heirloom diamond)
3. I get to know the client’s needs and aesthetic through a series of explorative questions and photo sharing.
4. I develop three design concepts to review and tweak until one is selected.
5. I manage the project through all stages of fruition, beginning with the determination of the right person (or people) to craft each piece and ending with my stamp of approval and the presentation to my client.
Do you have any photos that show before/after?
I thought you’d never ask! 😉
What do you find is the most challenging aspect of your business? The most rewarding?
As every one of my designs is one of a kind, it’s fairly difficult to take best practices from one project and apply them to the next one. In addition, I tend to attract many clients who don’t know what they want, they just know they haven’t found it yet. My former career as a trainer and coach comes in handy here, as I have a lot of patience and empathy for those who need a lot of hand holding.
The most rewarding thing for me is to see the look on my client’s face when they see their piece for the first time. I often witness tears of joy and get lots of hugs too! 🙂
How can people get in touch with you who’d like to work with you?
