Sometimes I get so annoyed with myself, when I find out that there has been this amazing studio and gallery under an hour from where I live (since 1993!), and I didn’t visit until now. (Doh!) Thank goodness I finally had the good sense to visit Shibumi Studio & Gallery in Berkeley. What finally got my butt in gear was I saw that they were having a Ruth Tomlinson show. If you’ve been following me, then you know I’m a big fan of hers. In fact, when Ruth posted a particular white gold and diamond ring on her Instagram feed about 4 weeks ago, it was love at first sight. It was with mixed emotions that I got to actually try on said ring at the gallery (even better on my finger!) but then found out it had already sold (drat!). Doesn’t it look quite fetching paired with two of Ruth’s stacking bands? Oh, so “Amy!”
Regardless of the fact that this ring would not be going home with me, I must have spent an hour exploring this space and all the beautiful work it features. The other designer featured for the current show is Heather Palmer, an Oakland-based artist with phenomenal hand-blown glass objects de arte. Here’s a few of her vases accented by driftwood.
Shibumi is owned by April Higashi, an extremely talented jewelry designer. Her collection of rings is out of this world, and I spent some quality time trying them on.
I couldn’t quite take my eyes of the sunset hues of this sapphire ring by April.
If you’re looking for a ring, whether it be for general wear or an engagement ring, then this is a must-stop shop. Take a gander at this case, just brimming with sparkly delight.
There were many artists showing whose work I was familiar with, such as Sam Woehrmann, Tura Sugden, and Polly Wales. But there were also numerous designers that were brand new to me. Can I tell you what a thrill this is? I admired this glass bracelet from Karen Gilbert.
And a rock bracelet by Deborah Boskin that spoke to my nature-loving soul.
Even the gallery itself is beautiful, from the Eric Powell doors as you enter, to the sleek space inside.
And do you see all the drawers in these two banks? Yep..each and every one is filled with jewelry. A veritable treasure trove!
Next time you find yourself in the east bay, I highly encourage you to spend some quality time at Shibumi. And yes, mom, I promise we’ll take a field trip there. You’ll go crazy!!
Wendy Brandes is a force to be reckoned with, in the most positive of ways. I’ve followed her on social media for quite some time, and I’m inspired by both her unique jewelry and her strength of character. When I found out she would be showing at JCK in Las Vegas, I definitely made meeting her a “must do.” I’m so glad I did, as she and her collection were as impressive in person as I had envisioned. I now must share with you some of the most fantastical rings I’ve ever seen before, rife with detail and a story. Without further ado, enjoy this interview with Wendy about her Maneater collection.
I was SO taken with your Maneater rings at the show! Can you tell me a bit about what inspired this collection?
Since childhood, I have been fascinated by biographies of women, especially those of long-ago queens and other powerful female figures. In my first career as a journalist (at the Wall Street Journal, CNN, and People.com) I was, of course, dealing with current events. When I switched to jewelry design in 2006, I realized I had a way to keep telling stories, only now I could tell them about the historical women who had always intrigued me. I started my line with designs inspired by real people, ranging from the queens everyone knows about — Cleopatra, Nefertiti, Anne Boleyn, and Elizabeth I — to women Americans might not be familiar with, including Empress Matilda of England, Queen Min of Korea, and Empress Wu of China.
It was Empress Wu, the 7th-century ruler of China, who led to the Maneater collection. I always liked the fact that during her lifetime, Wu was known as “emperor” — the only female ruler of China to use the male title. Historians have treated her differently from her male peers, the same way they did with other powerful women. You can find supposedly serious history books that refer to Wu (and other women) as a “dragon lady” or “maneater.” (Equally murderous male rulers have no equivalent pejoratives.) I like to take the words used against us and turn them into symbols of power. Besides, who doesn’t love dragons? So I created an 18K yellow gold Empress Wu dragon ring that holds the whole world — represented by a spinning lapis lazuli globe — in its fangs.
That other common insult — “maneater”– still stuck in my mind though. Eventually, I decided that every jewelry design I did didn’t have to represent an actual woman, and that I could create pieces around the theme of female power in general. Thus, the Maneater collection was born.
I believe there are 8 in the series, and I tried on 3 of them at the show: the bull and bullfighter, the pink elephant and Jonah and the whale. Can you give us a little description of each of these?
I originally planned to do a series of eight one-of-a-kind rings — eight being a “power” number if you are into numerology — but then I found a very interesting and large labradorite carving, so now the series is seven rings and a showstopping necklace that uses the carving. The necklace is still in the works.
All of the Maneater rings have a triumphant figure on top of the ring and a small man inside the shank. The Bull and Bullfighter Maneater ring shows a winning bull standing tall over a stadium. If you peek inside the shank, you see the bullfighter standing with his back to us, his cape swirling around him. The rose-gold bull is paved with 350 black diamonds totaling 1.48 carats. I also used 79 white diamonds totaling 0.37 carats. All together, the ring uses 25 grams of 18K rose, yellow, and white gold.
The Pink Elephant and Tipsy Writer Maneater ring won an honorable mention in the Spectrum awards. “White Fang” author and journalist Jack London was the person who came up with the idea that folks who hit the bottle too hard might hallucinate pink elephants. The elephant is covered in 262 pink sapphires totaling 2 carats. She has diamond eyes and a ruby forehead ornament, and she stands on a bar that is set with 174 brown diamonds totaling 2.15 carats. Inside the shank, the writer slumps next to a wine glass, which is adorned with another diamond. I used 23.6 grams of 18K rose, yellow, and white gold in this ring.
For the Jonah and the Whale Maneater ring, a diamond-pave whale with tsavorite eyes surges through a blue-sapphire sea. In the shank, Jonah is curled into the fetal position. I try to do each of the men in the Maneater rings a little differently, and I figured Jonah wasn’t going to be walking around upright in the whale.The yellow and white gold weighs 26.1 grams. I used 86 points of blue sapphires and about half a carat of white diamonds. All of the rings were made with the lost-wax casting process (carved by hand), all of them are one-of-a-kind, and all of them were made in New York City.
I know that you, yourself, are a very powerful woman — from your artistic talent to your convictions. Which of the rings would suit you the best right now? And why?
I don’t like to have to choose a favorite from among my children, but I admit that I always favor the most recently completed design. In the Maneater series, that would be the Dragon and the Knight Maneater ring. (I really do love dragons!) In addition to being the newest Maneater, it’s the most complex Maneater design. In addition to 18K yellow, rose, and white gold, I added platinum to the mix, in the form of a sword clenched in the dragon’s jaws and a skull at her feet. The rose-gold treasure chest opens to reveal the dragon’s hoard of gems, and the wings and the skull also have a little movement to them.
The gold weighs 29.78 grams, and there are 2.8 grams of platinum. There are 400 tsavorites totaling 4.5 carats on the dragon, 52 brown diamonds weighing 52 points on her wings, and white diamonds, rubies, and keshi pearls in the treasure chest. I think it would be rather pretentious to announce to someone in real life, “I am a complex personality!” In fact, I’m positive that most people who know me would say that I’m a very straightforward person. But when it comes to jewelry, the more complicated it is, the more I like it … so analyze that as you wish!
Can you believe this work? Jaw-dropping, to be sure. Wendy has a wide array in her collection, and you can see more at her online shop. I have no doubt that there’s a story behind each and every piece.
Wendy, thank you so much for your time and talent! I truly appreciate you.
I’m pretty voracious when it comes to devouring my Instagram and Pinterest feeds — they’re a constant source of beauty and new ideas. This is exactly how I first came across one of Disa Allsopp’s “spaghetti rings.” So it was with great joy that I had the opportunity to meet her and see her collection at the NY Now show. Here I am trying on three of her spaghetti rings, with bezel-set garnet, peridot and aquamarine. She has perfectly captured that fine line between luxe and organic, don’t you think?
Here’s another spaghetti ring, sprinkled with diamonds.
Disa, a London-based jeweler, set up shop in 1996. She works in 18K gold, sterling silver, and gems, and she hand-fabricates each and every piece right in her studio. She is inspired by the jewelry of ancient civilizations, from Roman to Greek and beyond. I can certainly see this influence in her work. Take these blue sapphire and gold rings, for instance. It’s hard to determine if they’re new or straight out of the Victoria and Albert jewelry collection!
My lovely mom, who was at the show with me, modeled this necklace, where hand melted pieces of silver are strung on silver wires. It really makes a personal style statement. (SO your look, mom!)
Disa showed me one of her newest designs — these three and four stone rings. SO pretty in garnet, tourmaline, peridot and yellow beryl.
Very happy I had the opportunity to see this creative line in person. Disa, it was a pleasure meeting you!
I don’t know about you, but right now I can use a bit of a pick-me-up. Between the weather and the general unease seemingly omni-present in our country, I just want to smile and be happy. Jane Taylor Fine Jewelry is exactly what the doctor ordered! Not only does a smile come to my face when I think of Jane and her daughter, Cleo, the dynamic duo behind the brand, but the color in their jewelry is just fantastic. Trust me — about 500 words from now you will be feeling much more positive.
Got color?!
First, let me introduce you to Jane and Cleo. Jane has been obsessed with jewelry since childhood. Her dad brought her to antique shows while growing up, giving her an introduction into the world of jewelry. Her passion was so great, that she left art school when she was 19 and began her career, working in the diamond district in NYC. When her daughter, Cleo, came along, she began making baby jewelry for her. Jumping ahead to 1994, Jane officially launched her own line. Cleo joined Jane in the business full time after college in 2010. They truly make a great team; Jane focuses on the design and manufacturing, while Cleo is the mistress of PR, marketing and public relations. And did I mention they’re totally fun to boot? (I bet you can clue on that from their smiles in the photo below.)
I just may have visited their booth more than once during the Couture show, and each time I tried on something different. There’s a reason they call their jewlery “totally everyday.” (I apparently took this literally.) First up was this show-stopper of a cuff, with a multitude of different gems set in ruthenium plated sterling. I was definitely having a Wonder Woman moment with this thing on my wrist!
On another visit I was more into the stacking bracelets, which come in all colors of the rainbow. These are from their Cirque Collection.
One reason I made sure to see this line at the show was that I had seen these darling little opal studs on their Instagram feed. And yes, they just might now be living in my own jewelry box…maybe.
Showing the great range in their collection, here are some dazzling earrings that are pretty much a party for your ears!
I was just e-mailing with Cleo, and she shared this image of a new pair of earrings. The peridot cushions (the “greenery” color of the year) are really set off next to the pink sapphires, don’t you think? Very cool color juxtaposition.
I also enjoyed playing with their trays of rings. I stacked up a bunch, then just tried on a single — both equally inviting.
If you’re into bolder looks, then perhaps you’d select one of these two rings? The first is composed of quartz, amethyst and topaz, while the second features citrine, beryl and zircon.
If you’ve been enjoying the bar necklace trend, but want to branch out into a new version, then you’ll enjoy these two necklaces. Which one could you see yourself wearing?
Now I have to ask — are you smiling yet? Did I hear you mutter “wow” or perhaps “that’s gorge!” I thought so. Wishing you a VERY happy day.
As I explored the floor of the JCK show in Las Vegas, there was quite a buzz about Little H jewelry. “Amy, you just MUST stop by her booth! You’ve really never seen anything like it,” exclaimed more than one friend of mine. My curiosity was most certainly piqued, as I couldn’t imagine what could be done with pearls that was so revolutionary.
Ok — everyone was correct — my eyes opened wide in amazement when I saw what Hisano Shepherd was doing with pearls. She has created pearl geodes!! Look at these rings I tried on! They are filled with black and white diamonds.
How did she come up with this idea? Well last year she was at the Tucson Gem Show and was quite taken by all the geodes, such as these amethyst ones.
Having a history in the pearl business, she came up with the idea of cutting a pearl in half, polishing the inside, and then lining them with gems and seed pearls. How cool is that?! Here’s some of the pearls, both whole and cut open, to show you what they look like.
Hisano uses mainly three types of pearls in these collections: Tahitian, South Sea, and Souffle (which I had never heard of before.). Souffle pearls are grown in such a manner that they are hollow inside. She goes to Hong Kong three times a year to source all the pearls and gems. She cuts each pearl herself, and each stone is handset in her Los Angeles studio, with the assistance of her one assistant. Very labor intensive, to be sure.
I couldn’t help but admire the ombre effect she created in this pendant.
Hisano doesn’t want pearls to be thought of as dowdy, and she has really come up with a way to make them relevant for today’s woman. Here are a couple more pieces from her Pearl Geode Collection, including a bracelet and earrings with jackets.
I think her Finestrino Collection (meaning little window in Italian) is so special. You can see how she has created windows into the pearls, and then filled them with gems.
There’s alto the Grotto Collection, where you can see through the whole pearl on the earrings and pendants, and the opening is then gem-encrusted.
I must say, I had such fun trying on all her designs!
And she has not forgotten about the men out there. How about these Tahitian pearl and black diamond cufflinks?
Although I think if my significant other owned these, I’d be “borrowing” them and pairing them with an untucked white tuxedo shirt and frayed-hem jeans. Luxe casual!
If you’d like to see more of Hisano and hear about her process, you’ll enjoy this video.
The first time Syna appeared on my radar was when I saw Monica of iDazzle wearing one of their Mogul drop necklaces. I couldn’t help but want to reach out and touch this glorious moonstone pendant with yellow gold and black diamonds on the cap; with its clean lines and elegance I was just mesmerized. Lucky me, as I got to see the line in person at the Couture show and spend some time with Dharmesh and Namrata Kothari, the husband-wife team behind the brand.
Syna Mogul Drop Necklaces
Syna, which means “together,” is clearly a life’s passion for this creative duo. They took an enormous leap of faith when they began their line and moved to the United Stated about thirteen years ago. Believing that “the possibilities of design, and life, are limitless when people work together,” they have come to create a truly beautiful and meaningful collection.
After drooling over the Mogul drops (Which stone would I want for myself??) I moved on to this outstanding peacock pendant surrounded by blue diamonds and tsavorites. I’ve never seen anything quite like it. It’s so serene, yet powerful, at the same time.
There was also a bevy of bracelets from their Baubles Collection waiting to be tried on. Well OK, I don’t mind if I do!
I enjoyed mixing and matching until I came up with this combination in garnet, diamonds, opal and peach moonstone. Pretty dreamy, right? And so comfortable on the wrist!
Definitely known for their use of color, I was blown away by this pendant of hand-carved and hand-painted bone. Wow!
Incorporating aspects from their rich heritage are extremely important to Dharmesh and Namrata. They aim to take such ideas, and show them in the most simple and refined way. When I saw various horses in the line, they explained to me that horses stand for bravery and royalty in their culture. In fact they told me at weddings the groom comes in on a horse! I tried on a horse head ring and admired a pair of cufflinks in 18k yellow gold with hand-carved blue sapphires with black diamonds.
I could have stayed and chatted with them all afternoon. Their warmth and knowledge was so inviting. And I don’t know about you, but when I find a connection with designers, it makes me love their work even more. Thank you, Dharmesh and Namrata for your time and kindness. I hope to see you soon!
My obsession with east-west set diamond rings began in August, when I tried on this one-of-a-king diamond ring by Lauren Wolf at the NY Now show. Granted, I’ve never really been fond of the marquis cut for myself, but turned on its side — I was hooked!
This really got me to thinking about how turning a stone on its side, be it oval, emerald, pear, or whatever, really gives the stone a whole new look! Plus, there are quite a few advantages I can see to this style:
easier to stack other rings with it
makes some cuts look “larger” as it takes up more horizontal real estate on your finger
would be ideal for shorter fingers, which may find certain stone cuts set in the traditional way too “tall”
if you wanted to re-design a current ring, it could be a great option instead of getting a whole new stone
unique and outside the box, which is always a plus in my book
With east-west set stones on my mind, I started searching for other examples. Jillian Abboud posted this photo of three antique diamonds, resting horizontally, on her Instagram feed and I started picturing different designs in my mind’s eye. (Which one would you choose?)
Elizabeth Street had me drooling at her selection on Instagram as well!
And then my dear friend Laura, who recently got engaged, had Polly Wales make her this fantabulous ring!
All of this spurred me onto an afternoon-long search online to see what other intriguing designs I could uncover. I did find quite a few to share with you, although I think this design is still up-and-coming, as there weren’t as many as I anticipated. In no particular order, here’s some variations on the east-west theme:
What do you think of this east-west idea? Is it something you could see yourself wearing? Or perhaps you do already? Please share your thoughts in the comment section below — I’ve love to hear from you!
Melissa Kaye is a New York-based jeweler who works with 18K gold, diamonds, and precious stones. I was very pleased to meet her at the Couture show in Las Vegas, and I was immediately taken with her earrings. Now this is certainly not to say that her necklaces, bracelets and rings aren’t fantastic (which they are!), but for this article I want to focus on the earrings. Here’s a shot of a woman wearing three of her designs in a perfectly harmonious combination.
Don’t you just adore the shape of the hoop, with its elongated, pointed shape? It’s her Cristina earring, and it comes in three sizes. Her Catherine earring is another take on the hoop, and I’m always looking for chic variations on this classic.
Melissa has a background in finance, but she’s had a life-long interest in jewelry.(#preachingtothechoir) She attended FIT, and now has been in business over two years. She describes her line as, “modern edge to classic shapes.” I think that’s a perfect description.
She has a variety of long, dangling earrings with great movement. Here’s a few I saw at the show.
Speaking of studs, this line has it going on! Here’s 9 different styles I was drooling over at the show. I seriously could not choose my favorite one…perhaps the one on the lower left? As Melissa told me, “It’s a lot of detail in not a lot of space.” So true — it’s like a whole little universe in each earring.
She also has an array of ear climbers which are perfect to mix and match with all her designs.
Here’s a couple sapphire pieces worn together.
As I was browsing through her web shop, I had to investigate these two more closely: the Lorraine and the Tori.
This is just the tip of the Melissa Kaye iceberg, my friends! If you want to see more, then check out her website, or see her work in person at these retailers.
Thanks, Melissa, for introducing me to your line — it was an absolute pleasure!
I also want to thank all of you, my lovely readers, for your dedication to my blog. I am going to take the next couple weeks off to enjoy the holidays, but you can still get daily doses of bling on my Facebook page and Instagram feed. I wish you and your families a joyous holiday and I’ll see you in 2017!
When Earthworks retired and closed their doors on Main Street in Los Altos, CA, I know I wasn’t the only one who was bummed out and wondering where to go for stylish jewelry in the area. Well get excited, as Sethi Couture has taken over the space and opened a sumptuous showroom! Carrying an array of designers, walking into this showroom is like walking into a bejeweled haven that I just didn’t want to leave!
The perfectly worn rug, the light wood floors, the Murano chandeliers — I was taking interior design inspiration for sure. As I strolled around the cases, I was pleased at the variety of designers. If you like delicate designs, you’ll be happy to see the collection from Wwake.
If you love color and pieces with a more exotic flair, then check out Arman Sarkisyan.
Perhaps work in bold silver is your cup of tea. Then you’re surely going to love the work by Jill Platner.
And of course, there is NO shortage of diamonds and sparkle from Sethi Couture themselves.
This is just a few of the many designers featured in this chic showroom. In addition to the jewels, there is also a lovely selection of lifestyle treasures, just as pottery, aromatherapy and bags by Basil Racuk.
By now, I’m sure you’re wanting to visit this new destination, right? Well mark your calendars for this Sunday, December 11. They’ll be having a trunk show with some extra holiday cheer. Hope you can make it!
Today I want to share with you a fabulous website, Treat Yourself. This site it definitely more than just a gift guide; it’s a curated collection of jewels, hand-selected by Third Coast Gems (Benjamin Guttery) and DiamonDoodles (Hannah Becker) — truly a virtual store. I’ve gotten to know both of them the past few years, and I can certainly can vouch for their eye and discerning taste.
Before I dive into the gems themselves, I first need to tell you how much I adore the name: Treat Yourself! If you’ve been following me over the years, you’ll know that I’m a HUGE proponent of self-gifting, especially when it comes to the holidays, my birthday, heck, even a random Tuesday. (I explained the origins of this 5 years ago in my article entitled “The Boyfriend Gift.”) So don’t look at this site as only a gift guide for others, but for yourself as well.
Ok, so back to Treat Yourself. There are currently 23 talented jewelry designers represented, 15 of which I have met personally and seen their work up close and personal. (Note to self: meet the other 8 designers in 2017!) There is a wide range of price points available, including various options starting in the $300-ish range, on up.
I want to highlight some of the pieces from the site, but there’s absolutely no way that I can pick my favorites. To solve this dilemma, I thought it would be fun to do it within my Jewelry Box Basics paradigm. This is where I’ve defined six different personal styles: The Lady who Lunches, The Bohemian, The Rock Star, The Minimalist, The Romantic and Trendy Gal. With these categories in mind, I’ll show you one possible piece that would likely suit each one very well. Granted, no one falls 100% into any one category, but you may find yourself gravitating to one of these styles as you read on.
The Lady who Lunches
This is certainly not to say this woman only goes to lovely lunches — in fact you’ll often find her on the board of local charities and in charge of events in the community. She likes luxe looks while she makes a difference. This Daria de Konig necklace gives that exact punch she would love.
The Bohemian
With the warm breezes of Bali in her heart, the bohemian yearns for jewelry with color and movement. These opal and aquamarine earrings from Margery Hirschey fit the bill.
The Rock Star
No, she doesn’t actually have to be in a band, but her heart has that rocker vibe and her closet likely houses both combat boots and a lot of black. Skulls are a perfect motif for her jewlery, as is this Crystal Coffin Momento Mori ring by The Moonstoned.
The Minimalist
Low-key jewelry is key for the minimalist. She often has a small “jewlery uniform” that she dons daily, and this diamond and sapphire bracelet by Erika Winters would be the perfect add to her collection.
The Romantic
While the romantic is often a lover of antique jewlery, that’s not to say she doesn’t love new sentimental designs with stars, hearts, etc. and an extremely feminine flair. Sara Weinstock’s diamond earrings (which come in three colors of gold) would certainly make her heart sing.
The Trendy Gal
This woman subscribes to all the fashion mags and visits Net-a-Porter daily to see the latest and greatest in the world of fashion. Knowing that bold color and oxidized silver are hot, hot, hot, she’ll surely want these Delphine Leymarie rings tied up with a sparkling bow.
Now that I’ve piqued your interest, have fun exploring the offerings on Treat Yourself! And don’t forget to self-gift this holiday season!
