I’m so glad I had time to pop into the Rock Vault at Couture before I had to jump on my flight home, as I was blown away by the architectural designs of Jo Hayes Ward. The Rock Vault, run by the British Fashion Council, is a talented group of British fine jewelry designers exceptionally curated by Stephen Webster. I can certainly see why Jo’s line is part of this impressive line-up!
This set of six hexagon stacking rings is made of “little bits,” as Jo described to me. I adore the different shades of gold (particularly the intriguing shade of warm white gold) mixed with diamonds. Jo dreams up these incredible designs, and is then able to use CAD to assist in making 3D models, which she then prints in wax and casts. It’s a perfect intersection of technology and jewelry, don’t you think?
This sphere ring really give you an idea of the dimension to her designs.
Growing up in London, the spaces and architecture in her urban environment clearly were a huge inspiration. She was a classmate with (the fantastic) Polly Wales at the Royal College of Arts, where she received her masters in goldsmithing, silversmithing, metalwork and jewelry in 2006. Upon graduation, she launched her line from a little workbench right in her own bedroom.
I recently received some images from Jo of her latest and greatest, so I want to share those with you. First up is this shimmering pair of earrings.
To demonstrate how her earrings catch, reflect and refract the light when they move, take a look at this video.
She has also started incorporating colored gemstones in her designs, as seen in these rings, which include aquamarine, sapphire and tourmaline. You can see how they easily stack, or can be worn individually.
Of course, one can never have enough diamonds, right? So the multi-sided stratus rings edged in diamonds are clearly a girl’s best friend. Again, I’m swooning with the unique color this warm white gold, as seen on the ring on the right.
Just in this past (almost) year, since I originally met her, I’m in awe of how her designs have evolved and her line has grown. I hope to see her soon, so I can try on some of these beauties in person!
In my next lifetime, I’m going to be an interior designer — I’m obsessed with creating the perfect home environment, and I pour over all the decor magazines each month. I was so intrigued with Moen’s ad campaign that featured statement necklaces made from the parts of their new faucet collection. (In fact, I saw the ad in a magazine while on a plane to the jewelry shows in Las Vegas.)
Who would have known, but just a couple days later while walking through the aisles of JCK, there was the ad! And even better, I was able to meet the talented Seattle-based designer of the necklace in person, Gina Pankowski!
I thought it was so interesting to watch her video about how she came up with the necklace concept.
Gina has a truly distinct look to her collection, which is inspired by “organic architecture,” such as the planetary orbits and the human spine. Each hand-fabricated piece is kinetic and moves with the body. Take, for example, her Lattis Burst necklace. Gorgeous, right?
I can see how Gina’s past as a sculptor influences her work. These earrings are truly small sculptures for your ears.
Even her variation on a stud earring goes beyond the norm…in a very good way!
The construction of this bracelet is so unique, that it doesn’t even need a clasp. (Plus, you know I’m a softie for mixed metals!)
Gina takes the ordinary hoop earring to a new level, with her Vertebrae hoops.
Along with the 100% recycled metals she uses, Gina also incorporates color in some of her pieces, as shown in this rose quartz ring. I adore the setting — so unique!
In addition to her online shop, you can also see her line in person at various shops in the United States — click here for a list. Enjoy!
Tura Sugden’s designs have been on my mind since I first saw her collection last fall at the WJA Designers by the Bay event. Since she’s a local designer here in San Francisco, I decided to invite myself to her studio in Noe Valley for a visit. She’s so kind, and she was more than happy to show me around.
Starting the morning off right at Tura’s studio!
There’s nothing like seeing an artist’s bench and trays of gems just waiting to be tried on!
I asked Tura how she got started in the jewelry business, and here’s her reply:
“I studied fine art and graduated with a BFA in sculpture. During school I was always very fabrication-focused; I loved the process of making an object. I was most comfortable working on a small scale and my work had a very natural progression towards jewelry. I started a traditional jewelry apprenticeship in my last year of college, and I continued working for jewelers for seven years. I developed my line while apprenticing and just last year I went full time with it.”
I am SO not surprised how this new line has been steadily growing in popularity. (This girl is going places!) I find it truly unique, and I love the cage-like settings around diamond slices.
She has mentioned that she uses a German blow torch, and I asked her to explain what this is:
“This type of torch changed my life! It feels so intuitive and natural to me. It incorporates the power of breath to supply oxygen and a gas (I use propane), which is controlled by a hand-adjusted valve. You’re using your breath and your hands together to control heat, which makes it easier to solder pieces that might otherwise become easily overheated. It’s a deeply traditional way of soldering that is no longer widely used – many jewelers I talk to have never heard of it!”
I can only imagine all the hard work that goes into designing and making a jewelry line. I asked her what her favorite part of it all is, and she told me, “I am in love with executing a project. Most of my work is one-of-a-kind, so each piece I produce presents new challenges. It never gets boring and it allows me a freedom with my work that I’m really grateful for.”
I wanted to know what her current favorite piece is:
“A few weeks ago I produced a new cuff that is my ultimate favorite every day piece. The Needle Eye Cuff incorporates a design motif I’ve been using in my work and is the most luxe weight. It’s a really streamlined piece and I’m proud of the engineering of it— it features an invisible clasp and a fantastic fit, and I love how it stacks with other bracelets and bangles. I’m about to produce it in multiple sizes!”
I must admit, I love it too!
Since she’s a local, I decided to ask some flash questions as well, as I’m always looking for hot tips!
Favorite SF restaurant
La Ciccia or Locanda, I can’t pick!
Favorite SF store
ZGO – I’m a scent junkie
Favorite thing to do when you’re not working
Cooking is my favorite way to unwind after work. Second favorite is eating!
Clothing item you can’t live without
A cashmere sweater!! I have one on me at all times.
Dream travel destination
I can’t wait to get to Bali…
I have to say, I truly enjoyed getting an inside look at Tura’s work and life. Thanks so much for having me! If you’re interested in seeing her line, click here for a list of stockists.
Some days my schedule works out effortlessly, and Monday was one of those days. Even though I went to SOMA to pack a client for a month of travel in the morning, met a colleague for lunch in the Marina in SF, and had another client in Marin later in the day, I still found myself with a whole free hour! And not only was this a lovely gift in itself, but my break just happened to be right near Blanc, a store which had been on my “must visit” list for quite some time– in fact ever I learned they carry Thalia Jewelry. (You may remember I wrote about seeing her line at the WJA Designers by the Bay event last fall.)
When I walked in, I couldn’t believe it, but there was Ashley Morgan, another jewelry designer extraordinaire! (Click here if you missed my article about her.) Universes colliding!
Thalia Jewelry was beautifully displayed in a big case when you walk in the store. I can never get enough of her bracelets with pave diamond clasps! And I love how the rings and cross were artfully sitting on an old book. That completely fits the old world luxe aesthetic of the line.
Ashely’s gems were showcased at the opposite end of the table, and her rings gave me complete jewelry envy. (btw, I can’t believe I didn’t snap a photo of Ashley, as the earrings she was wearing were to die for!!)
There were definitely some new designers for me as well. The ombre on this multi-chain bracelet by Daniele Basta is a little bit rocker and a little bit boho at the same time. I seriously have a thing for Italian design! And Italian food…and Italian men…I’m seeing a theme here…hmmm
These chunky rings by Lee Brennan Design have a similar vibe, and they blend perfectly with the clothing sold at the store — edgy leather jackets, shoes from Calleen Cordero, and many European designs, just to mention a few.
I was also taken with these mixed metal bracelets by Bash Jewelry (hand made in New Mexico). They have such a great weight to them!
Natalie Hicks, daughter of the store’s owner, Nancy, also has a line at the store — Justine Alexandra. She has some great pave diamond pieces, including a bangle with polki diamonds. Beautiful!
I thoroughly enjoyed whiling away my break trying on jewelry, and I know I’ll be back!
Thanks for the great response to my “Observations on Portland” article — so fun! And as I promised, here’s the follow-up post with the jewelry lo-down from the ‘hood. As I mentioned, one of the reasons I went there was to visit Twist. (This store is up in the 23rd Ave. area.) I’ve ordered from them online before, and I was so psyched to see the store in person. Not only was it much bigger than I had envisioned, but they carry items for the home as well. Who knew? The first case that magnetized me was filled with work by Judy Geib. This opal bracelet left me speechless. (There are so many times I wish I had a bottomless wallet…)
I was also fascinated with these crystal lockets from Loquet London. You can select from a vast variety of charms to put inside. Such a darling take on the charm theme!
These lovely studs by Suzanne Kalan with a black diamond halo “sparkled” my attention as well.
Oh, and you can’t help but be intrigued by the signage and light when leaving the store!
Only a couple blocks away on 23rd Ave., I visited Gilt. They specialize in both vintage and antique fine jewelry (on the main floor), and vintage costume jewelry and new items from local designers up on the second floor. It was brimming with customers, and I was told that Sundays are a BIG day for engagement ring shopping. (I’m always learning something new!) Given Portland’s eco-conscious attitude, I’m not surprised that vintage rings are a hot commodity. They have a very clever color-coded box system, and the color of box tells you what metal the ring is set in. Here’s a (very small) sampling of their fabulous selection.
They have a large collection of lockets and Native American jewelry as well.
I did make a little purchase here. It’s a necklace by Amira (a Portland artisan), made of woven nylon thread, glass beads, and brass. It definitely appeals to the boho girl in my soul, and I like the mixed metals. And I just haaad to take home some sort of souvenir, right?!
Walking back towards my hotel downtown, I stopped at Frances May on SW Washington St. They carry some of my favorite clothing designers, and they have a well-edited selection of modern jewelry as well. I liked this large statement necklace by Erin Considine.
This necklace by Arielle de Pinto is made from woven metal. Total work of art!
During my exploration of the east side, I went to Altar, as recommended by my fashionable bartendress, Emily, from the previous evening. I may have missed this had I not been chatting with her. This establishment features “northwest alternative handmade” items, and it’s definitely worth a stop. This organic wall display of necklaces was awesome!
It turns out that the designer of this line (called Iron Oxide Designs) is Amy Fox, and she is part-owner of the store and was manning the front desk that day. Cool!
These necklaces by Fox Tail Jewelry are very industrial boho, and they fit in perfectly with the Portland aesthetic.
I unfortunately failed to note the designer of these tassel necklaces, but I love them!
While I tried to really pack in my shopping time during my two-day stay in Portland (and I certainly saw a lot!), these were my jewelry highlights. As you can see, there’s a real range in offerings. To be honest, I found more diversity in the jewelry than I did in fashion. Hope you enjoyed this virtual tour! And please let me know if you have a favorite spot to shop there as well. I always love hearing from you.
I first became entranced with the Paraiba tourmaline a couple years ago — its radiant, almost neon, hues of blue, green, and even violet are simply spectacular. But what is this stone, and how is it different that regular tourmalines, which are quite common in the jewelry world?
photo credit: gia.edu
First of all, I needed to learn how to say it correctly, and let me tell you, I was way off! I thought it was “pa-RAI-ba”, but it’s in fact pronounced “par-a-EE-ba.” (Here’s a link to hear it spoken.) Next, I wanted to know how it gets its extreme color, and it turns out that it’s due to the presence of copper in the gem, which no other tourmalines have.
And where is it from? Well not surprisingly, it’s from the state of Paraiba, although I didn’t know that was in Brazil. It’s a relatively new discovery, found in the 1980’s by Heitor Dimas Barbosa. He dug in an old mine in Paraiba Hill for many, many years, absolutely convinced that there was something special to be found there. He was right, and thanks to his dedication and fortitude we now have this rare stone. And when I say rare, I mean really rare! In fact, it’s one of the most expensive gemstones in the world. The larger the stone, the higher the price, as Paraibas are rarely bigger than one carat. Similar stones have now been found in Africa, though their color is said to be a bit lighter.
Here’s some lovely examples of this electric stone:
Giovanni Ferraris is one of the first people I interviewed at the Couture show, but I knew I had to wait until now to write about him. Why? Because we’re only two weeks out from the Academy Awards, and this Italian line is beyond red carpet worthy! There were so many devastatingly beautiful pieces, and I couldn’t help but picture different movie stars wearing them. This pair of earrings, in fact, won the Haute Couture award at the show — pretty darn impressive, as it was his first time attending Couture. Bravo!
Getting his start 30 years ago making watches, he then branched into jewelry, where his wife, Katia, is the main designer, and he handles the production end of things. Their factory is located in San Salvatore, Italy, a region rich in the jewelry business, and each piece is made right there in their factory. I couldn’t resist trying on these diamond and titanium earrings. While they are definitely heavy on the bling, they are light on the ear. They took 300 hours to make! Che lavoro!!
This pair of blue-green sapphire and diamond earrings are one-of-a-kind and out of this world!
These earrings are part of the “Twist” collection, and they move, just like springs.
Here’s my friend, Jen, modeling a bracelet from the same collection — it fits so comfortably around the wrist.
Giovanni demonstrated how it moves with ease, and pops right back into shape.
There were other bracelets I couldn’t resist trying as well. This mesh of black and white diamonds is from the “Velvet” collection.
And this London blue topaz and diamond bracelet has a very deep blue hue, reminiscent of the Mediterranean Sea.
The glow emanating from this pink quartz ring was spectacular. The attention to detail in the setting makes it as pretty from the side as it is from the top.
If I were hitting the red carpet, I surely wouldn’t mind wearing one of these!
I so enjoyed getting to know Giovanni — from practicing my Italian a bit, to trying on the exquisite jewels. I will definitely be visiting his booth again at Couture this year to see the latest and greatest.
I know that much of the country is being slammed with snow and ice as of late, and it got me thinking about rock crystal (also known as quartz crystal), as it resembles ice. In fact, its name comes from the Greek word for ice, according to The Book of Stones by Robert Simmons & Naisha Ahsian (A great reference book!). I’ve always been drawn to the stone, from my fascination with crystal balls as a child, to the crystal pendants I wore around my neck throughout college. Even today, I have quite a few rock crystal items I adore. This stone is said to heighten spiritual awareness, generate prosperity, and alleviate stress, among other things. Here’s some of my favorite rock crystal pieces I have collected over the years.
One of the things I love about rock crystal is that the price point isn’t necessarily super high. You can find lovely items for not a lot of money, and continue on up to very expensive ones. In addition, there’s designs for all different personal styles, from organic bohemian to refined up-town lady, and the the fact that it’s colorless makes it very easy to work into your wardrobe. I took a virtual shopping tour, and I found some gorgeous pieces I think you may enjoy (in no particular order).
So what about you? Do you own any rock crystal pieces? Is this something that you’re attracted to? I’d love to hear your thoughts. And if you’re one of the people buried in snow, please stay warm and safe!
I believe one of life’s greatest gifts is when a person finds their true passion in life, and then can make a living pursuing it. This is exactly what happened to Toby Pomeroy. Gracefully allowing me to interview him during his lunch break at the JCK show in Las Vegas, Toby described how he discovered his love for jewelry design. He was in medical school, but signed up for a jewelry making class as an elective during his senior year. His professor, Max Nixon, could clearly see he had a talent, and gave him a key to the jewelry lab so that he could work any time he wanted. Toby was hooked (He said he practically lived in that lab!), and he never looked back.
Amy and Toby
Toby has a gentleness about him and a sparkle in his eye! He was so open and eager to tell me about his work. One of the things that he’s world-known for is his commitment to environmentally sustainable, socially responsible jewelry. He explained to me that his real focus is on the impact of the mining industry, and he says it’s up to jewelers to request ethically sourced materials. He, himself, goes down to the mines in Columbia and works directly with the miners, staying with families there. He told me how they’re so proud of what they do, and they never thought that they’d be recognized for their hard work. This is amazing to hear! Here are a few photos he shared with me, including the mine entrance at the Canada mine, and a couple images from La Llanada. What a gold nugget!
Due to Toby’s efforts in refining re-claimed metals in cooperation with Hoover & Strong refiners, he launched EcoGold and EcoSilver in 2006, which has started a new revolution in sustainability in the world of jewelry. Toby sets the standard with True Gold, which is described as, “…TRUE GOLD™ jewelry uses completely traceable gold, platinum, diamonds and gemstones, showing complete authenticity from mine to market. When you purchase source certified TRUE GOLD™, you are supporting Fair Trade and Fair Mining efforts, conflict-free diamonds, and environmental responsibility.”
Now that you’re surely excited about the materials, let’s take a look at Toby’s beautiful designs. He’s most famous for his Eclipse hoops, which I first saw at Manika Jewelry in San Francisco. Toby described them to me as, “..an elegant marriage of form and function.” This photo shows a style with a shiny finish and diamonds.
I loved this Orchid cuff I tried on at the show. Its blackened EcoSilver with a dash of diamonds is just lovely!
Another shape, which is a modification of his classic Eclipse, is the Oval Eclipse collection.
The texture on his pieces are all hand-forged, with the help of his wonderful crew, Hank Hermansen and Rachel Richardson.
Rachel and Hank
Imagine the work that goes into pieces like these, from the Oasis collection.
Or in these delicate Ginko earrings..
Toby also incorporates colored gem stones into some of his creations, such as in these earrings from the Comet Collection.
While every piece is produced at his studio in Oregon, you can find his line around the globe. Click here for a store locater guide. It was an absolute pleasure to meet Toby and learn about the positive impact he’s making in the world!
One thing I truly love to do is explore new shops and neighborhoods. I’m always amazed how many great places there are, practically in my own back yard. My friend Laura (you may remember her from my great piercing escapade), is like a walking tour book of amazing stores. It’s not just because she loves shopping as much as I do (and she does!), but she is a rep for many home, jewelry, and gift/accessory lines with Aesthetic Movement, so it’s her duty to know all the happening places.
We set our itinerary for various places in Berkeley, Piedmont, and Oakland. I picked her up in SF and headed over the Bay Bridge. First up was Zaver & Mor in Berkeley. I’d met the lovely owner, Rada Sahney, at a couple Women’s Jewelry Association events, so I was very eager to check out her establishment, and it definitely did not disappoint.
She carries some of my favorite lines, such as Tura Sugden, Julez Bryant, and Elyria Jewels. But there were also some lines that I was seeing for the first time. One of my favorite pieces I saw the whole day is this gold and diamond bracelet by Mia Chicco. (One more item for my jewelry lust list!)
I was also excited to see a display of Sharon Zimmerman’s work, who is a local jeweler from San Francisco.
By the time we had (just about) tried on everything we wanted to, it was time to grab a bite for lunch. Since our second stop was going to be Red Bird, right by the Claremont in Berkeley, we popped into Rick & Ann’s for a really tasty meal at their community table.
Sufficiently refueled, we went to Red Bird and began perusing all the lovely clothing and jewelry. This, in fact, is a place where I have purchased many of my favorite items over the years.
I couldn’t resist trying on this unique pearl necklace by Melissa Joy Manning I spotted in the sale case. The organic shapes of the pearls are captivating.
I thought it looked pretty cool layered with the two necklaces I was wearing. And who am I to turn down 60% off?!
Ok…time to hit the road again, and next up was Atomic Garden in Oakland. (Next time I want to explore this area more, as there seemed to be many cute shops on College Avenue!)
While jewelry isn’t the main focus of the store, that isn’t to say that they don’t have a nice selection, including Zoe Chicco, Emily Amey and Ilsa Loves Rick, to name a few.
I was definitely psyched to visit Esqueleto, which is a jewel box of a store in the Temescal neighborhood of Oakland, curated by jeweler Lauren Wolf. Not only does the store carry her line (the two rings I have on in the photo below), but they have selections from many designers, including a beautiful vintage selection.
vintage beauties
I was pleasantly surprised to find out that Mania Mania is branching into the fine jewlery business, and I love this ring by them!
The natural beauty of these pieces by Lou Zeldis also caught my eye.
As fate would have it, jeweler Marisa Haskell, whose line is now named Marisa Mason, was in the shop, so we had to end our field trip by running around the corner in to her boutique as well.
She has a workshop right in the store, and her jewelry is artfully displayed on the walls, making it very easy to try things on.
By this time, the rain was starting to come down hard, and it was time to head back across the Bay Bridge to San Francisco. Our itinerary was clearly ambitious, as we still have many stores left on our list. Hence…part 2, (hopefully) coming in January. If you have any recommendations for additions to our list, please let me know in the comment section below!
