Earrings – Page 24 – Jewelry Fashion Tips

Polki Diamonds: Beyond the Four C’s

Last summer, as I sleepily stared out the window on a bus tour of Copenhagen, I suddenly sat upright in my seat. I had spied the most amazing jewelry store, and I vowed to find it on foot as soon as I was through with the tour. Being the jewelry-o-holic I am, I found it and purchased the most beautiful diamond ring. But…it was unlike any diamond that I had seen before. It was not perfect, not even really “cut” and I could see that the clarity was not there at all. The price certainly didn’t reflect what I was accustomed to in the world of diamonds either. Yet still the diamond had subtle luxury, and that’s when I officially fell in love with polki diamonds.

Thanks to Meredith Marks, jewelry designer extraordinaire, I was turned on to this term “polki.” Until then, I had been going under the false assumption that this type of diamond was called rose cut. In fact, in almost every store and catalogue I’ve seen in the United States, these diamonds are mislabeled. (Rose cut diamonds actually look like a rose about to bloom–they look like a diamond which has been cut upside down, creating more of a faceted dome.)

Here is a pair of Meredith’s earrings made with polki diamonds, surrounded by smaller, single-cut champagne diamonds.

Meredith Marks "Susan" earrings — "Susan" earrings by Meredith Marks

Basically, polki diamonds are uncut, rough diamonds that don’t have any of the enhancements found in traditional cut diamonds. They originate from India and are set with Kundan techniques, which don’t involve prongs or claws to set them in the metal. It’s an ancient artform from way, way back in the time of Rhajastani kings. The diamonds are typically a bit larger in size and have a subdued shine because they’re not highly polished.

Meredith Marks' Alexia ring--oh my gorgeous!

Personally, I love that these diamonds have a more ancient look. I have seen them set in oxidized sterling with gold, and they truly sparkle in that setting. They most definitely fit in with my “bohemian luxury” personal style. I think this bangle is now officially on my covet list….

I don’t know if it’s that polki diamonds are now on my radar, or that they’re becoming more popular, but I am definitely seeing more of them here in the States. (I’ve even seen a polki eternity band in the Sundance jewelry catalogue.) So keep your eyes open and you may run across a diamond with your name on it!

Manika: An SF Treasure!

When Mankia Jewelry opened on the second block of quaint Maiden Lane about 5 years ago, I of course had to visit. Beyond the wide array of artisan jewelry they carry, I was also completely impressed by the owners, Peter and Monica Walsh. The philosophy of the store is that they want to sell amazing jewelry at a fair price–no big mark-ups and no big sales. (Personally, I think they are even under-priced!) With price points ranging from $150-$6000, there’s truly something for everyone.

Peter Walsh of Manika Jewelry — Peter Walsh, owner of Manika Jewelry

About half their lines are local designers, and the majority of their designers use reclaimed metals. (Perhaps the new “slow jewelry” movement?!) The styles they carry run the gamut from modern and edgy to more ethnic. You want silver? They’ve got it. Kimberly certified diamonds? Check. Semi-precious stones? You know it.

One designer that caught my eye was Clare Ullman, from right here in the Bay Area. (Berkeley to be exact) I loved her pieces with oxidized silver, yellow gold, and natural diamonds.

Clare Ullman jewelry — Jewelry by Clare Ullman

I was also extremely intrigued by a case of handmade silver jewelry from Laos. The workmanship is exquisite!

Laotian line at Manika — Amazing handmade jewelry from Laos

Not only does Manika offer beautiful merchandise, but they also give back. At all their trunk shows, a percentage of the profit is donated to charity. It’s truly jewelry with a heart. Be sure to stop in next time you’re in the Union Square area.

Cleaning Silver

Tarnish is the bane of my existence with my silver jewelry. Storing it in a jewelry box or a felt bag certainly cuts down on the tarnish, but nevertheless, it eventually comes.

sterling silver cuffs — sterling silver cufffs

Christine Campbell, the owner of one of my FAVE boutiques, Crimson Mim, (with locations in Los Altos and Palo Alto, CA) made a very cool video clip of a new way to tackle the tarnish. I haven’t tried it yet with my own jewelry, but she says it works like a miracle!

No more stinky creams or treated cleaning gloves for me!

Hiking Jewelry

No…I’m not kidding. Hiking jewelry has actually become a priority in my life. (Who would have ever thought it?!) I guess that’s what happens when you’re dating a very outdoorsy guy and you suddenly find yourself exploring caves and falling in rivers. I can’t be doing these activities wearing my typical earrings (too big), bracelets (might break), watch (doesn’t mix with water) or necklaces (just plain inappropriate with hiking gear). So, it’s back to the jewelry drawing board for me.

The first thing was to find a watch that wasn’t completely ugly and could take some rough and tumble action. I found the perfect line with Baby G watches. They are very reasonably priced, good in water up to 200 meters, and shock resistant. I found a fairly large selection at my local Bloomingdale’s. Of course I feel under-accessorized without a bracelet, so I complemented the watch with a leather and woven silver bracelet I had purchased in Sweden. The clasp is extremely secure, so I don’t have to worry about it falling off next time I find myself submerged…

hiking watch & bracelet — My Baby G-shock hiking watch

I think the key factors in selecting hiking bracelets (beyond the fact that they can’t look too blingy…they’ve got to have a more natural feel) are having a secure closure and being able to withstand the elements. This rules out any sort of bracelet on a string or elastic, as they can easily break. Also, toggle closures are a no-no. One idea I like is the woven leather or cord bracelets that are self-tightening. You can find them at all price points. Tai is one brand I have road-tested and they’re readily available in many stores and online. Wrap braclets with a hearty button closure are another great option, and Chan Luu is a wonderful designer of wraps. (A friend of mine has had one of these on for years, scuba-diving and all, and it still looks great.) You can find different takes on these two themes everywhere.

Now what about the perfect hiking necklace? Well, I certainly don’t recommend wearing anything too precious and it, too, must be pretty hearty. I was at Margaret O’Leary on Fillmore street in San Francisco and came across a fabulous solution! Margaret Solow makes petite pendants of semi-precious stones on a polyester/nylon cord that’s pretty much unbreakable. Sign me up!

margaret solow necklaces — Perfect hiking necklaces by Margaret Solow

Finally, the earrings. I think you’ve got to keep it pretty darn simple here, with either studs or very small hoops. Otherwise, you may find yourself with only one earring at the end of your adventure. Happy hiking! 🙂

Meredith Marks: Designer

I’m like a kid in a candy store when I attend jewelry trunk shows. When I have the opportunity to see a designer’s line that I never have seen before AND it’s tremendous, it’s like Christmas morning. That’s exactly how I felt last week when I went to see the Meredith Marks show at Angela in Menlo Park. WOW!

Meeting designer Meredith Marcks — Meeting designer Meredith Marks

The first thing that struck me about her line was it’s diversity. Some pieces had a more exotic flair, while others were polished to the nines. I also appreciate how she uses gold (in various colors), silver, and both precious and semi-precious stones, which gives her collection a wide range in price points. It is accessible jewelry to be loved and worn.

Another wonderful feature is the multi-functionality of many of her pieces. For example, she showed me a pair of larger earrings (the elongated pointed ovals on the left side of the picture below) where the dangling part comes off and can be used as a pendant on a necklace. Another necklace she showed me is the perfect length to be used as a wrap bracelet as well. With jewelry that can be used in a variety of ways, it really makes your jewelry dollar go farther.

meredith marks jewelry — A selection of Meredith Marks jewelry

Meredith started her line a couple years ago, and her passion for it is palpable as she talks with you and shows you various pieces. You can’t currently find her jewelry in any US department stores–just specialty boutiques. In my mind, this makes her line all the more coveted, as it’s truly unique. If you’re interested in seeing her jewelry, you can contact her to find where it’s sold near you.

Scale: How Big or How Small?

You may have noticed that over the years, the scale or size of jewelry goes up and down. I remember the huge plastic jewelry of the 1980’s and the petite chain and crystal necklaces from the 1990’s. (Think Monica and Rachel a la Friends) Currently, jewelry seems to be fairly large scale, though there are many choices when you go shopping. So how do you choose what to buy?

First of all, you need to get a basic understanding of what large, medium and small scale jewelry looks like. Here’s an example shown in necklaces.

large, medium, and small scale necklaces

This same guideline applies to all types of jewelry, from the thinnest of gold bands to the chunky cocktail ring…from simple diamond studs to shoulder-grazing chandelier earrings. Once you can identify the scale of a piece, you next need to decide what would work best on you.

Think about your physical being and how much “space” you occupy in the world. Are you tall? Short? Somewhere in between? And think about your skeletal frame. Just because I’m quite tall, I actually have very small bones, as shown in my tiny wrists and ankles.

Finally, think about the scale of your facial features. Do you have large eyes? A small button nose? A smile to rival Julia Roberts?

Knowing how you visually come across will help you in determining the most inherent jewelry scale for you. By inherent, I mean the scale that is most naturally pleasing and complimentary to you. For me, I can carry pretty large scale jewelry due to my height and the size of my facial features, but I need to mix it with some medium or small scale to balance out my small bones. Often, I can achieve this by layering necklaces and bracelets of different scales. (I will elaborate on how to do this in a future post.)

Now keep in mind that this is how to get an inherent look. You can also create drama by selecting a scale that you wouldn’t normally choose. For example, picture some five foot tall gal who constantly wears large, oversized necklaces–and she looks fabulous! This is because she’s making a dramatic statement with her necklaces. Plus, it may very well be part of her jewelry signature. Here’s a perfect example of creating drama with a large scale necklace:

creating drama with a large scale necklace

So take all this information and look at your jewelry with new eyes. You may get an “ah ha!” or two…

Dominique Cohen: Designer

I have been a huge Dominique Cohen fan for years, so I was especially excited to meet her in person at a recent trunk show in San Francisco.

I’ve always considered Dominique’s jewelry as perfect layering pieces. Although she makes all different types of jewelry, I associate her most with her necklaces. She has core collection chains in rose and yellow gold. To these you can add a variety of pendants.

She features semi-precious and precious stones, as well as stunning pearls to her jewelry. By adding different layers and stones, you get completely different effects. It’s wonderful (and cost-effective) how you can keep adding different necklaces to your collection over the years, yet they all mix and match perfectly, both with themselves and with other necklaces you already own.

I also love the fact that her jewelry is made right here in the USA. It is hand made, and she casts each gold piece in her Los Angeles facility.

Here are a necklace and some earrings from her spring 2011 line:

You can find her jewelry at Neiman Marcus, Sak’s Fifth Avenue and various smaller boutiques. Read more about her and her line at Dominique Cohen.

Hoop Earrings: Hoop it up!

As I was choosing what earrings to wear the other morning, my boyfriend happened to peek over my shoulder into my jewelry box. Granted, he’s about the most un-materialistic person I’ve ever met, but his expression totally cracked me up as his eyes opened verrry wide. “Why do you have so many hoop earrings? Aren’t they all the same?!”

Clearly, not all hoops are created equal, and in my mind, they are the LBD of a jewelry wardrobe. (LBD=little black dress) Hoops in their various sizes and metals are one of the most useful items you can have. In fact, when I finally got my ears pierced in college (it was torture waiting that long!!), I promised my parents that all I really needed were hoops, as you could wear them anywhere. (That lasted for about two weeks, when I just had to branch out, of course!) 🙂 But truly, hoops can work from the boardroom to the ballroom.

So what type of hoops should you have in your collection? First, consider what metal you wear. If your skin and hair are in the cooler tones then silver or platinum are most flattering, and warmer skin tones look fabulous in gold. Rose gold, which is currently very popular, looks good on many skin tones, so be sure to try it out in the stores. (If it works for you, buy it while it’s in fashion, as it will one day disappear again.)

Small hoops (up to about .75″ in diameter) are best for more conservative environments, and medium (.75″-1.5″ diameter) to large hoops (over 1.5″ diameter) range from casual to dressy. In each of these categories, you also have to consider the thickness of the hoops themselves. Thin hoops are more basic (but certainly not boring) and wider hoops make a bolder statement. When considering what size and width to buy, be sure to consider your own proportions. Teeny, tiny hoops on a 5’11” voluptuous gal just won’t do the trick.

Hoops go beyond basic when you get into diamond or beaded varieties. And I just love the sparkle of diamonds! Once you’ve got your basic metals down, then save up for some diamond hoops, be it jeweled all around, or just with one or two diamonds as accents. And yes, you can wear them during the day!