Do you know what granulation is? I had an idea, but I didn’t truly understand what it was until I met Jack and Elizabeth Gualtiere of Zaffiro at the Couture show. Granulation is an ancient goldsmithing technique which is, “…a decorative process that consists of applying minute spheres of gold to a surface of similar gold alloy and then heating the entire piece to a temperature high enough to form a permanent bond between the surface and the spheres.” Impressive, right? Take a look at this pair of earrings. As described by Elizabeth, “These are our one-of-a-kind classic “Fern Curl” earrings that are set with amethyst briolettes and teal diamonds in granulated 22kt yellow gold, with 18kt yellow gold posts.”
Being a fan of all shades of aqua, I was immediately drawn to the hue of this necklace in their case. The pendant is the surface skin of an aquamarine, which is very reminiscent of Roman Glass. It’s basically what the stone looks like when it comes out of the ground. J’Adore.
Jack and Elizabeth originally discovered Etruscan granulation while on a study abroad program during college. They began working together 22+ years ago, and they were friends before the whole dating/marriage thing. (Love that!) They live and work in Portland, Oregon, where each piece is completely hand-crafted. I thought it was so interesting that they consult on each others’ designs, yet each one makes their own pieces from start to finish. Apparently Jack is more drawn to architectural, geometric designs, while Elizabeth gravitates towards curves. Though through it all, granulation is the core, common thread.
These two pendants begged to be tried on, and who am I to ignore jewelry saying, “Hello, Amy!” These are Anglo Saxon bronzes from the 6th Century, which were dug up in London. They truly take “one-of-a-kind” jewelry to the next level!
While 22K gold is their main medium, they have also added oxidized silver to their repertoire. Their Etrusco group showcases their metal work, alongside colorful gems.
The cuffs in this series blew me away, Here’s one I tried on at the show.
And here’s another design from the same collection they recently posted on social media. The main stone is Australian boulder opal, accented with teal and white diamonds.
These “nebula” cuffs, part of the Etrusco series, are, “..inspired by the imagery of distant constellations, points of light against a dark universe, and the harmony of seemingly randomly arranged objects..” I completely see it, don’t you?
While speaking with Jack and Elizabeth, I couldn’t help but notice the color of this bracelet, as it wasn’t rose gold, yet I couldn’t quite nail down what I was looking at. It is apparently a new patina they’ve been working on called the “orchid patina.” It’s still in the experimental stages, and they have yet to achieve the color on gold. I would not be surprised if this has now been accomplished.
I was e-mailing with Elizabeth this week, and she shared this image of a new necklace, most definitely fit for a princess! It is a one-of-a-kind Etrusco pendant, set with a tanzanite cabochon, purple sapphires, teal diamonds and a mint green tourmaline in 22kt yellow gold, with forged and oxidized sterling silver. They truly have a gift with color.
If you’d like to take a closer look into the intensely complex process of making a custom piece, then you’ll most certainly enjoy this 4 minute video. I know I did!
I likely took up a bit too much time asking a million questions of this dynamic design duo, but I truly appreciated every moment of it. I am very excited to see their most current designs at Couture again this year!
I’m so glad I had time to pop into the Rock Vault at Couture before I had to jump on my flight home, as I was blown away by the architectural designs of Jo Hayes Ward. The Rock Vault, run by the British Fashion Council, is a talented group of British fine jewelry designers exceptionally curated by Stephen Webster. I can certainly see why Jo’s line is part of this impressive line-up!
This set of six hexagon stacking rings is made of “little bits,” as Jo described to me. I adore the different shades of gold (particularly the intriguing shade of warm white gold) mixed with diamonds. Jo dreams up these incredible designs, and is then able to use CAD to assist in making 3D models, which she then prints in wax and casts. It’s a perfect intersection of technology and jewelry, don’t you think?
This sphere ring really give you an idea of the dimension to her designs.
Growing up in London, the spaces and architecture in her urban environment clearly were a huge inspiration. She was a classmate with (the fantastic) Polly Wales at the Royal College of Arts, where she received her masters in goldsmithing, silversmithing, metalwork and jewelry in 2006. Upon graduation, she launched her line from a little workbench right in her own bedroom.
I recently received some images from Jo of her latest and greatest, so I want to share those with you. First up is this shimmering pair of earrings.
To demonstrate how her earrings catch, reflect and refract the light when they move, take a look at this video.
She has also started incorporating colored gemstones in her designs, as seen in these rings, which include aquamarine, sapphire and tourmaline. You can see how they easily stack, or can be worn individually.
Of course, one can never have enough diamonds, right? So the multi-sided stratus rings edged in diamonds are clearly a girl’s best friend. Again, I’m swooning with the unique color this warm white gold, as seen on the ring on the right.
Just in this past (almost) year, since I originally met her, I’m in awe of how her designs have evolved and her line has grown. I hope to see her soon, so I can try on some of these beauties in person!
I first met Rachel Clinnick, the amazing designer behind San Francisco-based Thalia Jewelry, last fall. I was already a fan long before meeting her, as I had admired some of her work in various stores. I was so honored to have lunch with her this week, where I got to know more about both her and her passion. I asked if she’d be willing to share some of her favorite pieces, and she was happy to oblige. (Grazie!) So here is what she had to share, along with her own descriptions of the work. Enjoy the visual delight!
“The spider brooch was a custom piece made for our client from her grandmother’s rings. I sketched the design and we created it in hand-carved wax first, then hand-set, hand-filed and shaped the rest of the piece. It is just stunning in person.”
“This gold Spanish shipwreck coin from the 1700’s is a special piece. Worn on our handmade 22k chain, it really brings out the old world feel.”
“A collection of my most cherished stackable rings in diamonds and opals offer organic opulence with a classic touch — easy to start with one and stack over time!”
“This was a piece I finished and sold the very next day. It’s topaz and opal in 18k, all hand-carved as well as hand-fabricated; it sold as a gift for one of my favorite clients and I’m so happy she has it!”
“Our Zodiac Collection rings are just so fun and sentimental. You can choose one-sided or double-sided. I wear my own with my sign on one side and my husband’s on the other!”
I have a feeling you may now be as mesmerized by her collection as I am! I thank Rachel for being my “guest contributor” today! If you’d like to explore the line some more, you can see her work at various boutiques, and she also takes special appointments. Click here for that info.
What?! Don’t you live/work in SF? Well, yes…I do. I am a Bay Area native. I work in San Francisco many days a week, and I lived in Pacific Heights for a few years as well. (I currently live 15 miles south of the city.) But don’t you find that when you live somewhere, you often don’t take the time to visit all the cool, local places as opposed to when you’re visiting somewhere new? Heck, I know SF born and bred people who have never been to Alcatraz or walked the Golden Gate Bridge, but I know all my friends who’ve visited from abroad have done these things!
This was the impetus for Friday’s field trip, with my fabulous co-hort, Jennifer Bressie. There were a few jewelry stores in areas of SF we don’t often frequent which have been on our “must see” list. So we both cleared our schedule for the day to check them out. Jen was the driver, and I was the the direction girl…(Jen probably should have been worried when I had my directions scrawled on a piece of paper, instead of using Google maps on my phone!)
Off on our adventure!
Our first stop was going to be D & H Sustainable Jewelers in the Castro. Now I know that directions aren’t my strong suit, but the streets in the area where Noe and Market (and others?) meet are so catywompus, that we found ourselves stuck behind this trolley, at a dead stop. (Please note the “Dead End” sign to the right. It’s true, signs don’t lie.) Oops! Let’s do a “creative” U-turn. Perfect. Did I mention I’m not the best navigator?!
But it was all worth it, and Jen’s superb driving skills got us to our destination. In a matter of about 10 minutes, I knew that I wanted Shawn Higgins, half of the duo behind D & H Sustainable Jewelers, as a new best friend. His humor, expertise, and openness are infectious.
This store is among the first that will be SCS certified, meaning that 100% of their products are ethically sourced and sustainable. What a fabulous feat! They sell their own designs, as well as representing many other jewelry designers. It’s clear that bridal is a huge category for them. Being the magpie that I am, I went straight for the bling-iest ring in the case, featuring a flawless yellow canary diamond. (This is one of their own designs.)
Another one of their amazing pieces is this cage pendant, which took over a year to make, to get it just right. It’s made of sterling silver and 14K gold, and housed an incredible Alexander the Great coin, dating back 2500 years. Adore.
You can open it up, and really put whatever sort of talisman you’d like inside.
I also thought this necklace, made from a re-purposed 1910 Edwardian lingerie pin was quite fantastic.
If you’re looking for a supremely unique wedding ring for your guy, then check out this Gibeon meteorite set in rose gold by Lashbrooke!
After briefly meeting Lindsay (the other partner), we had to run. Lunch was most definitely next on the agenda, and you can’t go wrong with the croque monsieur (for me) or the burger sans bun (for Jen–she’s so good!) at Absinthe in Hayes Valley.
With our appetites sufficiently satisfied, were were off to Metier. You may be familiar with this store. They spent 5 years on Maiden Lane (Union Square), 16 years on Sutter (where they were a large clothing and jewelry boutique), and then a year in the Shreve building, before moving to this new location on Laguna. This jewel-box of a boutique offers both vintage/antique jewelry as well as merchandise from current designers. The more carefully you look, the more you see. The owners, Sheri Evans and Trina Papini, have an impeccable eye, so the collection is curated to perfection. During our visit, the place was hopping with customers!
I couldn’t resist trying on these Georgian rings, which are from the late 1700’s-early 1800’s. Amazeballs.
Or what about one of these silver bracelets, from Victorian to Arts & Crafts? So easy to mix with current outfits!
One of the current designers they carry is Arielle de Pinto, who weaves magic with metal. The ombre finish on this necklace is just perfect.
Loved seeing Sheri and Trina, and I’ll certainly be back soon.
Our last stop of the day was in the Mission. Love & Luxe is an amazing jewelry gallery and atelier owned by artist-in-residence, Betsy Barron. She shows her own work and also showcases 40+ other hand-crafted lines in her spacious store. As luck would have it, she came to the store during our visit. Yay!
First checking out Betsy’s line, I couldn’t help but try on a few rings.
Jen was in love with this rose gold locket from 1870. She is a total rose gold girl!
I definitely have always had a thing for turquoise, and this vintage-inspired design with Sleeping Beauty turquoise by Chris Neff made me smile.
Definitely one of the most unique lines I’ve ever seen is James Banks, which is a collaboration between Adam Schulman and Heidi Nahser-Fink. Here is their necklace called “Lightkeeper.” On one necklace, there is a glass bulb filled with black diamonds and one ruby. Then on the other necklace are the “tools” you can use to open the bulb to add/change whatever you want inside. Have you ever seen something like this?!
Even the box it comes in is exquisite.
There was also a lovely selection of work by Johnny Ninos. His current collection is inspired by barnacles, as shown in these rings. Organic beauty, no doubt.
Jen had to take one more look at that locket before we had to leave and get back on the road…
I can’t think of a better way to spend the day–with a life-long friend (We actually went to kindergarten together!) looking at gorgeous jewelry! Thanks to all of you for your time, knowledge and kindness!
There are opal rings, and then there are opalrings. This one, by Omi Prive, recently won both the Grand Prize in the JCK Jewlers’ Choice Awards (for best ring design over $10K) andW Magazine Readers’ Choice Award.
The huge center opal, a 4.33 carat Lightning Ridge black opal, is surrounded by .46 carats of trillion green tsavorite garnets and .24 carats of blue sapphires. In addition, there are .46 carats of brilliant round diamonds in the 18K gold shank. Even better, this beauty was made by hand right here in the USA in Los Angeles.
“We are honored to win the Grand Prize award; it is very meaningful to me, as jewelry retailers are the ones that voted on our piece!” says Niveet Nagpal, President and Designer of Omi Privé. “My passion lies in color, and I am especially pleased with the way the colors come together in this ring. I am excited and honored that it has been recognized amongst so many beautiful entries.”
Since this company launched in 2012, they have consistently been represented in the JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards — bravo! Personally, I cannot wait to see it in person at the Couture Show in Vegas coming up this season.
In my next lifetime, I’m going to be an interior designer — I’m obsessed with creating the perfect home environment, and I pour over all the decor magazines each month. I was so intrigued with Moen’s ad campaign that featured statement necklaces made from the parts of their new faucet collection. (In fact, I saw the ad in a magazine while on a plane to the jewelry shows in Las Vegas.)
Who would have known, but just a couple days later while walking through the aisles of JCK, there was the ad! And even better, I was able to meet the talented Seattle-based designer of the necklace in person, Gina Pankowski!
I thought it was so interesting to watch her video about how she came up with the necklace concept.
Gina has a truly distinct look to her collection, which is inspired by “organic architecture,” such as the planetary orbits and the human spine. Each hand-fabricated piece is kinetic and moves with the body. Take, for example, her Lattis Burst necklace. Gorgeous, right?
I can see how Gina’s past as a sculptor influences her work. These earrings are truly small sculptures for your ears.
Even her variation on a stud earring goes beyond the norm…in a very good way!
The construction of this bracelet is so unique, that it doesn’t even need a clasp. (Plus, you know I’m a softie for mixed metals!)
Gina takes the ordinary hoop earring to a new level, with her Vertebrae hoops.
Along with the 100% recycled metals she uses, Gina also incorporates color in some of her pieces, as shown in this rose quartz ring. I adore the setting — so unique!
In addition to her online shop, you can also see her line in person at various shops in the United States — click here for a list. Enjoy!
Tura Sugden’s designs have been on my mind since I first saw her collection last fall at the WJA Designers by the Bay event. Since she’s a local designer here in San Francisco, I decided to invite myself to her studio in Noe Valley for a visit. She’s so kind, and she was more than happy to show me around.
Starting the morning off right at Tura’s studio!
There’s nothing like seeing an artist’s bench and trays of gems just waiting to be tried on!
I asked Tura how she got started in the jewelry business, and here’s her reply:
“I studied fine art and graduated with a BFA in sculpture. During school I was always very fabrication-focused; I loved the process of making an object. I was most comfortable working on a small scale and my work had a very natural progression towards jewelry. I started a traditional jewelry apprenticeship in my last year of college, and I continued working for jewelers for seven years. I developed my line while apprenticing and just last year I went full time with it.”
I am SO not surprised how this new line has been steadily growing in popularity. (This girl is going places!) I find it truly unique, and I love the cage-like settings around diamond slices.
She has mentioned that she uses a German blow torch, and I asked her to explain what this is:
“This type of torch changed my life! It feels so intuitive and natural to me. It incorporates the power of breath to supply oxygen and a gas (I use propane), which is controlled by a hand-adjusted valve. You’re using your breath and your hands together to control heat, which makes it easier to solder pieces that might otherwise become easily overheated. It’s a deeply traditional way of soldering that is no longer widely used – many jewelers I talk to have never heard of it!”
I can only imagine all the hard work that goes into designing and making a jewelry line. I asked her what her favorite part of it all is, and she told me, “I am in love with executing a project. Most of my work is one-of-a-kind, so each piece I produce presents new challenges. It never gets boring and it allows me a freedom with my work that I’m really grateful for.”
I wanted to know what her current favorite piece is:
“A few weeks ago I produced a new cuff that is my ultimate favorite every day piece. The Needle Eye Cuff incorporates a design motif I’ve been using in my work and is the most luxe weight. It’s a really streamlined piece and I’m proud of the engineering of it— it features an invisible clasp and a fantastic fit, and I love how it stacks with other bracelets and bangles. I’m about to produce it in multiple sizes!”
I must admit, I love it too!
Since she’s a local, I decided to ask some flash questions as well, as I’m always looking for hot tips!
Favorite SF restaurant
La Ciccia or Locanda, I can’t pick!
Favorite SF store
ZGO – I’m a scent junkie
Favorite thing to do when you’re not working
Cooking is my favorite way to unwind after work. Second favorite is eating!
Clothing item you can’t live without
A cashmere sweater!! I have one on me at all times.
Dream travel destination
I can’t wait to get to Bali…
I have to say, I truly enjoyed getting an inside look at Tura’s work and life. Thanks so much for having me! If you’re interested in seeing her line, click here for a list of stockists.
My brother moved to El Dorado Hills about three years ago. I had no clue where this town was when he broke the news, but if you’re driving there from the Bay Area, you take the 50 past Sacramento, towards South Lake Tahoe, and there you’ll find it. Most of my visits are consumed with family activities, from my nephew’s little league games to my niece’s soccer matches. Aside from runs to Target and Bed, Bath, and Beyond, I haven’t done an iota of “real” shopping on any visit. So HOW excited was I to finally see a fabulous store, and a jewelry store at that, this past weekend! The Talisman Collection is located right in downtown El Dorado Hills, and it’s a huge space filled with amazing items, from jewelry to bags to great gifts for the guy in your life.
When I walked into the store, I must say that I was in a bit of disarray, after spending the past few days moving my brother and his kids into their new home. But that clearly didn’t matter, and within minutes, the fab owner, Andrea Riso, and I were talking jewelry designers, stones, and trends. An hour passed in a flash, and I know I could have spent the entire afternoon there. She is beyond knowledgeable, and I learned so much from her. Do you know what this stone is?
I knew it was some sort of opal, but I learned it’s a very rare water opal, worth $50,000. I was nervous to even hold it!! Pulling more stones from her stash, I got to see this fire opal up close and personal. I cannot describe the radiance of this stone (this is just an iPhone photo, if you can believe it), and I can’t wait to see what she creates with it!
I was drooling when she brought out this necklace from Paula Crevoshay, who is the queen of colored stones. Who knew?! Andrea knows, that’s for sure!
The striking blue stone is hemimorphite, which looks like this in its natural state.
Also by Paula Crevoshay is this fantastic Paraiba tourmaline ring. The weight of it felt just divine on my finger!
In the multitude of cases lining the store, there were many of my favorite designers, from Anne Sportun to Sethi Couture to Zaiken, to name a few. But there are also some new names for me. One is Laura Medine, who it turns out is the mom of the infamous Man Repeller. (Love her–and she has such a following!!) It was this trio of necklaces that first caught my eye when I entered the store. The allure of alexandrite and peach moonstones was mesmerizing!
And seriously, how gorge is this moonstone and diamond bracelet?!
I also became acquainted with Fernando Jorge from Brazil. This necklace of sapphires and black gold made me want to go out on the town!
I was loathe to get on the road back to the Bay Area, but reality sunk in, and I had to stop playing with all the pretty jewels. Whether my brother likes it or not, I’m definitely going to be visiting this store on future visits. I know my 6 year-old nephew will be more than happy to accompany me, as he told me (as we were once peering through the store’s window off-hours) he loves the kid’s corner and said, “They have really cool rocks there!” Thanks to Andrea for the wonderful introduction and tour!
P.S Andrea–we need to meet for a drink at Couture this year!
I first became entranced with the Paraiba tourmaline a couple years ago — its radiant, almost neon, hues of blue, green, and even violet are simply spectacular. But what is this stone, and how is it different that regular tourmalines, which are quite common in the jewelry world?
photo credit: gia.edu
First of all, I needed to learn how to say it correctly, and let me tell you, I was way off! I thought it was “pa-RAI-ba”, but it’s in fact pronounced “par-a-EE-ba.” (Here’s a link to hear it spoken.) Next, I wanted to know how it gets its extreme color, and it turns out that it’s due to the presence of copper in the gem, which no other tourmalines have.
And where is it from? Well not surprisingly, it’s from the state of Paraiba, although I didn’t know that was in Brazil. It’s a relatively new discovery, found in the 1980’s by Heitor Dimas Barbosa. He dug in an old mine in Paraiba Hill for many, many years, absolutely convinced that there was something special to be found there. He was right, and thanks to his dedication and fortitude we now have this rare stone. And when I say rare, I mean really rare! In fact, it’s one of the most expensive gemstones in the world. The larger the stone, the higher the price, as Paraibas are rarely bigger than one carat. Similar stones have now been found in Africa, though their color is said to be a bit lighter.
Here’s some lovely examples of this electric stone:
Giovanni Ferraris is one of the first people I interviewed at the Couture show, but I knew I had to wait until now to write about him. Why? Because we’re only two weeks out from the Academy Awards, and this Italian line is beyond red carpet worthy! There were so many devastatingly beautiful pieces, and I couldn’t help but picture different movie stars wearing them. This pair of earrings, in fact, won the Haute Couture award at the show — pretty darn impressive, as it was his first time attending Couture. Bravo!
Getting his start 30 years ago making watches, he then branched into jewelry, where his wife, Katia, is the main designer, and he handles the production end of things. Their factory is located in San Salvatore, Italy, a region rich in the jewelry business, and each piece is made right there in their factory. I couldn’t resist trying on these diamond and titanium earrings. While they are definitely heavy on the bling, they are light on the ear. They took 300 hours to make! Che lavoro!!
This pair of blue-green sapphire and diamond earrings are one-of-a-kind and out of this world!
These earrings are part of the “Twist” collection, and they move, just like springs.
Here’s my friend, Jen, modeling a bracelet from the same collection — it fits so comfortably around the wrist.
Giovanni demonstrated how it moves with ease, and pops right back into shape.
There were other bracelets I couldn’t resist trying as well. This mesh of black and white diamonds is from the “Velvet” collection.
And this London blue topaz and diamond bracelet has a very deep blue hue, reminiscent of the Mediterranean Sea.
The glow emanating from this pink quartz ring was spectacular. The attention to detail in the setting makes it as pretty from the side as it is from the top.
If I were hitting the red carpet, I surely wouldn’t mind wearing one of these!
I so enjoyed getting to know Giovanni — from practicing my Italian a bit, to trying on the exquisite jewels. I will definitely be visiting his booth again at Couture this year to see the latest and greatest.
