Taru Jewelry by Sefik Kabas

I was enjoying the opening night party at the Couture show in Las Vegas — sipping my cocktail while sitting on a poolside tuffet, and I caught a glimpse of something quite fabulous out of the corner of my eye. Hopping up to inspect more closely, I met Sefik Kabas, the designer of Taru Jewelry, who was donning one of his own designs. I made a point to visit this Istanbul-based designer in the showroom the next day to see more of his work.

 

First up, I had to try on this ram’s head bracelet, encrusted with champagne, brown and rough white diamonds!

Sefik gave me a tour of his collection and answered some questions for me.

Your artistic background has included jewelry, glass blowing, interior design, and more. How did you end up launching your own jewelry line, Taru Jewelry, in 2015?

I studied fine arts majoring in sculpture and glass blowing. I designed and produced furniture with bronze sculptural details from ancient civilizations.

 

large mirror designed by Sefik

Jewelry was our family business from 1976 till 1990. I spent a lot of time in our jewelry workshop during those times. Going back to the roots, in 2015 I decided to get back to jewelry design and created the Taru brand.

 

Taru falcon bracelet

Your line is full of brilliant animals — how do you select which ones to focus on?

I have an interest in archeology. I focus on the animals of power with mythical symbols.

I was just amazed by the Queen Bee necklace at Couture, and you told me that it took three and a half months to make. What was the driving force behind this piece?

I wanted to create a one of a kind queen bee showpiece — all handmade, everything made from scratch. Not starting with a drawing, but working freestyle. I also wanted to show the movements of the bees as in real life.

details on the back side of the necklace

Can you share a recent creation with us, and tell us a bit about it?

My recent creation is the ceremonial horse bracelet for women. The earliest archaeological evidence for the domestication of the horse dates back to approximately 3500 BC. The mythologies of many cultures include references to horses. Horses were used to preserve cultural traditions and for ceremonial purposes to convey royalty. I created this ceremonial horse with a gold chamfron decorated with precious stones.

Who do you see as the Taru customer?

My customer is looking for uniqueness — one who appreciates handwork and wants to wear bold statement jewelry with a story. The Taru customer is both men and women.

 

This earring only takes one piercing, if you can believe it!

For an amazing look at Sefik’s work, take a minute to watch this beautiful video:

I’m so happy to have met Sefik at the show and see his line, full of extraordinary detail and archeological flavor.

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Brandon Holschuh: Designer

My fascination with Brandon Holschuh began when I spied an incredibly unique bead he made on Instagram. I vividly remember I was sitting in my hotel room in Edinburgh, Scotland, and my jaw about hit the floor. I was thrilled when I found out he was showing in San Francisco in August when I returned to California, and I got to meet him in person and check out a similar bead. I love everything about it, from the clearly hand-fabricated texture to the diamonds and variation in metal colors.

I hope you enjoy my interview with Brandon where you’ll find out more about this talented Ohio-based designer.

You told me that you’ve had a life long fascination with beads. Is this what got you going in jewelry design?

Yes, I began collecting ancient and ethnic beads as a teenager. Everything started as a collection. I began collecting beads, artifacts, coins, bones, parts, gemstones, rocks and any small object that had a story. I love learning about the history of the object, the provenance and I equally love the retelling the [object] story as well.

I learned to work with metal as a vehicle to help present the object or artifact. So making a metal armature or a mount to hold the objects began the evolution to jewelry. Copper turned to silver… silver turned to gold… and little by little diamonds creeped in. Our current work still pays homage to beads, but they are diamond beads. They are still strung on wire, but it’s now platinum. The forms are still present but they are also raised in platinum, gold and palladium. We have stayed consistent with the aesthetic throughout the evolution, but the materials are precious, the designs more complex and the whole feel is more refined.

 

Sculptural Herkimer diamond pin with flame set stones, 24K gold and oxidized silver

Your pieces have such a raw, organic, yet luxe aesthetic. What’s your inspiration for your designs?

It seems to silly to even say this, but it’s the absolute truth — we honestly let the metal tell us what it wants to be. We process the material in such a way that we have a unique and intimate understanding of its properties, its working capacity and its ability to change shape. This working relationship is how we push the metal to its limits. We get asked a lot about our process and it’s sometimes shocking to hear that our forms, shapes and designs are entirely hand-fabricated. We do not carve wax or cast anything. Each piece incorporates so many processes and various techniques it’s entirely a product of process. We do a lot of fusing, reticulation, forming, raising and sinking. We experiment a lot and we welcome unexpected results. We integrate those into the designs. We make a lot of parts. With those parts we make small objects. With those objects, we decide if it’s going to be a brooch or a ring or a necklace. Once in a while we stumble upon two parts that are similar. Those usually become earrings or cufflinks. The whole design process is organic, as is the work.

 

Piling on the rings

 

Stacking them up…

What do you find are the most challenging and rewarding things about being a jewelry designer?

I’m an artist. My medium happens to be jewelry. I make small wearable sculptures. Even though I’m a jeweler, I’m still an artist who has a voice. I use jewelry to communicate an idea. Just like a painter makes you feel a certain way when you view their painting, I use jewelry to evoke a certain emotion. More importantly our work still has a conceptual component. Actually, it has three main components that must be met to consider a piece complete. Here they are, in order:

BEAUTIFUL
TECHNICAL
CONCEPTUAL

A finished piece must be immediately beautiful. It must be accepted by the general public as an object of beauty. It must exude luxury, refinement and sheer beauty in design and material. This is for the client, the customer and the collector.

Next, it must be well made. It must gain accolades and admiration from other makers, jewelers and craftspeople who appreciate the vast and dynamic processes that go into each piece. We must trigger the question of how it’s made, what processes were used and what the complexity of the design is. This is for those who make and our counterparts. It’s also for the critics, jurors, judges and masters of the craft.

The final component is conceptual. We make work that communicates an idea. Yes, it’s beautiful. Yes, it’s expertly crafted. But it also has meaning. We excel here. We challenge the design to communicate a concept or to tell a story without words. Sometimes the viewer creates their own connection to the work. This interpretation is personal. Mostly it’s an emotion. Sometimes it’s literal. We have made pieces that are purely conceptual. This is for the sentimental, the heirloom seekers. This is also for academia and those who want a deeper connection with the objects in their lives. We love to tell the stories. Remember, it’s always about the story.

 

Bracelets galore!

If you weren’t a jeweler, what would you be doing?

Nothing. I can’t imagine a life where jewelry isn’t in my thoughts and actions in every minute of every day. My time is spent equally between my loving and supportive family and my studio. I have two amazing daughters and between my duties as a husband and father, there isn’t any time for much else.

 

This brooch features 15 carats of diamonds!!

OK, and now I have something VERY special to share with you. This is the debut of Brandon’s off-the-charts gorgeous emerald and diamond ring.

Did your eyes just go wide with delight? I bet! Here are a few more images of this beauty, which features an 8+ carat emerald, over a carat in diamonds, and all hand fabricated in 18K gold. The emerald just glows from within. I’ve never seen anything like it, have you??

Brandon — you have a true gift.

 

Hanging out with Brandon

If you’d like to contact Brandon about his work, you can reach him at [email protected] or 216-577-6365. There are also links to his website and Instagram at the beginning of this article. I have a feeling there are more than a few future Brandon Holschuh collectors reading this article…

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Lucie Gledhill: Designer

About a year ago, I had the pleasure of meeting Lucie Gledhill at the New York Now show. Her work has really stuck in my head, and I wanted to share some of her pieces with you. Lucie is a UK based jewelry designer who’s about 7 years into her line. What really made an impression on me is how she literally weaves with metal — take a look.

This is her Rope Chain necklace, which takes about 4 days to make. One link always has 2 other links to create the woven look.

She also has a really chic interpretation of the traditional gold chain; this is the Jumbled Curb Chain in 18K gold. I think it’s perfectly imperfect in effect, don’t you?

She has another group of necklaces that she described to me as both “ancient and feminine.” She creates this look by fusing white and yellow gold and accenting with diamond beads.

These firework earrings really made a splash with my short hairstyle.

I didn’t get to see this ring in person, but I’m loving the feel of this Magic Eye ring, with its marquis cut ruby and handcrafted recycled 18K gold.

All in all, a darn cool line! Would it suit your personal style? Do tell.

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Adam Foster: Designer

There was a lot of buzz on the show floor about Adam Foster this year. It was the first time this St. Louis jewelry designer was showing at the Couture Show, and as soon as I saw the jewelry in his cases, I knew what the buzz was all about! As a graduate in metalsmithing from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, Adam started his business from scratch about 15 years ago. He began by making bespoke pieces for private clients. This bespoke collection is one of this three aesthetics in his line. (We’ll get to the other two in a bit.)

I was honestly blown away by the craftsmanship, the attention to detail, and the use of stones in his work. The first ring I want to show you is this one, featuring reverse carved mother of pearl. Have you ever seen anything like it? It’s simply mesmerizing.

The comment in my notebook about this 32 carat sugarloaf moonstone ring is, “Holy shit!” I think that about sums it up.

I felt like royalty when I put on this one…

Surely the person who dons this panther brooch crafted from hand carved obsidian and bedecked with white and black diamonds will be making a personal style statement!

Take note of the feather headdress the panther is wearing. Feathers are in fact the inspiration for “Plume,” another of Adam’s three aesthetics. Spending time in the country on weekends and going pheasant hunting in the winter inspired Adam to create very unique pieces with this motif. He was wearing a fab feather brooch when I met him at the show.

The feather detail on this ring, all hand crafted, takes the piece to a whole new level.

The third aesthetic in Adam’s line is “Constellation,” and it’s in this group that I found something I’d love to have in my personal jewelry collection. Inspired by the ceilings in Italy, Adam translates the celestial heavens into wearable art. I’m pretty obsessed with these Constellation bracelets.

This behind the scenes look at the making of a piece in this collection really gives you an appreciation of the meticulous work that goes into each piece. I think it’s awesome that everything from design to manufacturing all takes place at the same address.

This Constellation band would certainly add some pizazz to one’s jewelry collection. Would you wear it on its own or perhaps stack another band or two with it?

I’m so excited to have met Adam and gotten a first-hand look at his unique line. Take note, readers, as this is a name that you’re going to be hearing more of — I just know it!

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Aosdana Jewellery on the Isle of Iona, Scotland

When I began planning my adventure in Scotland, I naturally asked all my friends for advice on where to go. A friend of a friend said I HAD to visit the Isle of Iona, as it was a completely magical place. OK…so I got out the map and located it. Hmm…it was part of the Hebrides Islands, a little isle off the coast of the Isle of Mull, off the coast of Oban. It didn’t sound like the easiest place to get to, but I was determined to make it happen. And, it turned out it wasn’t as difficult as I originally thought.

 

 

Enjoying the sunshine at the harbor in Oban, Scotland
Enjoying the sunshine at the harbor in Oban, Scotland

 

 

You can see Iona on the far left, outlined in red, the much larger Isle of Mull in the center, and the town of Oban off to the right on the mainland.
You can see Iona on the far left, outlined in red, the Isle of Mull in the center, and the town of Oban off to the right on the mainland.

To get to Iona, I purchased a full day, round trip tour from West Coast tours. I bought my ticket almost 6 months in advance (not that you have to), and I lucked out big time on the weather — cool and sunny! We departed Oban just before 10 in the morning and enjoyed a scenic 50 minute ferry ride to Craignure on the Isle of Mull. From there, I hopped on a bus and took an hour and half drive across the ruggedly beautiful Isle of Mull. The driver gave an informative and sometimes humorous commentary during the journey.

isle of mull landscape
landscape on isle of mull in scotland
Then it’s just a a 15 minute ferry ride over to Iona. Once I debarked in Iona, I just started walking. I knew the main thing I wanted to see was the Abbey, but you never know what you’ll encounter along the way. And what did I find??? An incredible jewelry gallery, Aosdana! Honestly, this was about the last thing I ever thought I’d find on this remote island.

aosdana jewellery on isle of iona in scotland
Aosdana “derives from an ancient Gaelic word and is the collective term for the bards of old whose role was to record the histories and genealogies of the land, through poetry and music.” It all started with local jewelry designers, Alex and Euphemia Ritchie and Iain McCormick. In 1996, Iain gave a young female relative, Mhairi Killin, the wealth of his expertise and designs. In 2003 Mhairi opened Aosdana, where she showcases this work, as well as the work of many other Scottish artists. I was extremely impressed by the gallery, both in its clean displays and breadth in style of work. Here’s a peek inside the gallery.

aosdana jewellery on isle of iona
insdie aosdana jewellery on isle of iona
I was very drawn to this zoomorphic ring with a dark finish. Its pattern was so much more complex than any Celtic design I’d seen before, and I learned it symbolizes renewal of life and eternity of spirit. Love it even more!

zoomorphic ring from aosdana
zoomorphic ring by mhairi killin of aosdana
I was also intrigued by the green stones in many of the pieces, such as in this charm bangle. I discovered that these stones are often referred to as “St. Columba’s tears” by the locals, and they sometimes carry of piece of it in their pockets to ward off drowning. It’s a mixture of serpentine and white marble, and it naturally occurs in shades from lime to dark green.

iona marble and silver charm bangle from aosdana
As I strolled around the gallery, I couldn’t help but admire a large statement necklace hanging on the wall by Kelly Munro. This “creel” necklace is made of brass, rubber and wood. It could easily function as a piece of art if displayed when you’re not wearing it.

I also think the handcrafted silver work by Susan Macleod is quite lovely. Here’s her Sweet Pea & Pearl necklace.

Another artist who uses wood in her jewelry is Cristina Zani. I think it’s so pretty how she carves the wood and then uses paint and gold leaf to make it an organically beautiful centerpiece.

Grace Girvan uses pebbles from the beaches of Iona in her designs — here’s one featuring two stones with fascinating patterns.

If you find yourself on the Isle of Iona, you definitely have to visit the Abbey. (It’s just up the road from Aosdana.) It was founded back in 565 AD, and it’s still in use today. Can you imagine going to services in such an ancient building? There was moss and ferns sprouting from the interior walls — truly a mystical place!

Iona Abbey

Duke and Duchess of Argyll
Duke and Duchess of Argyll

When walking back to the ferry landing from the Abbey, you’ll pass Aosdana, and shortly thereafter come upon the Iona Heritage Centre. I found this a perfect spot for an alfresco cheese toastie for lunch. (translation: grilled cheese sandwich)

iona heritage centre
iona heritage centre cafe
As I waited for my ferry back to Mull, I couldn’t help but get lost gazing into the crystal clear and frigid waters.

waters on the isle of iona in scotland
I’m so grateful that I followed the advice of my friend of a friend to visit this charming isle. If you find yourself visiting and you’re looking for a great place to stay in Oban, I highly recommend Greystones. This immaculate, modern boutique hotel, run by Mark and Suzanne, has five rooms. It’s the former private home of the director of Kimberley Diamond Mine. (Quite perfect for a jewelry blogger, don’t you think?!) I can’t rave over the views enough — and the yummy breakfast!

 

 

Greystones in Oban
Greystones in Oban

 

 

View from my room -- wow!!!
View from my room — wow!!!

For drinks, enjoy the outdoor area at Oban Inn (established in 1790!), and then have a delicious seafood dinner at Eeusk.

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Daria de Koning: Designer

Not only is it wonderful seeing jewelry designers I know when I go to the Couture show, but I’m always invigorated by meeting designers for the first time and seeing their work in person. Daria de Koning was one of those designers I had on my short list. Her use of color is wonderful, and she definitely is a queen of cabochons, which happens to be one of my favorite cuts. As typically happens at the show, I’m exposed to stones I’ve never heard of before. Yes, I learned some new ones at Daria’s booth! Let’s dive into some Q&A with this talented designer.

 

Dagny stacking rings
Dagny stacking rings

You have a background in painting as well as jewlery, right? How does painting influence your work?

Originally I went to art school thinking I would major in painting (derailed and became a graphic design/visual communications major). Graphics really helped train my eye and painting is similar to what I’m doing now — I’m just working with “hard” color in gemstones, versus fluids like watercolors or pastels. But I’m still working to create good compositions with the flow that a good painting magically creates. It just happens to be smaller and 3-D.

 

Azure malachite necklace with polite and tourmaline
Azure malachite necklace with iolite and tourmaline

How does your jewelry making process work — sketch an idea first? Find the stones first? Something else?

It depends on the piece. I’ll make loose sketches sometimes, but a lot of the time I’ll build designs with stones and then go right to creating the 3-D piece…

 

Hexagonal aquamarine and amazonite necklace with a center stone featuring a fragment of a blue-green tourmaline crystal in quartz
Hexagonal aquamarine and amazonite necklace with a center stone featuring a fragment of a blue-green tourmaline crystal in quartz

I saw so many amazing pieces at the Couture show. Can you please share a couple of your current faves with us?

Oh jeez…there’s nothing better than having one of my “thoughts” become 3-D and real…but that tends to mean I’m most excited about whatever I’ve just finished. ha ha. I’m really stoked with my star crossed lovers bracelet. I’m starting to go down a path of working with negative and positive spaces while still incorporating my cluster cabochons. The malachite necklace is pretty baller and really packs a punch.

 

Malachite necklace with aquamarine, tourmaline and blue peruvian opal cabochons
Malachite necklace with aquamarine, tourmaline and blue Peruvian opal cabochons

And, it wasn’t at Couture because I couldn’t finish it in time, but there’s this emerald ring that is fabulous.

 

Emerald ring with sapphires, apatite, rainbow moonstone and diamonds
Emerald ring with sapphires, apatite, rainbow moonstone and diamonds

I can only imagine how difficult it must be to create something so unique and beautiful and then let it go. Have you kept any particular piece for yourself?

I do get attached to my pieces. Each one is so special and I know that I’ll never be able to recreate it, so sometimes it’s really hard to let go. But I’d be a terrible business woman if I kept them all. It’s easier when I can sell directly to a private client since I know a piece will go to a happy home. Sending it out to stores is so much harder! Funnily enough, I don’t really own much of my own jewelry. I have some prototypes I’ve built and also I’ve kept maybe four pieces that I love to wear (and are easy to wear) from earlier collections.

 

Lodolite quartz earrings with sunstone and smoky topaz cabochons
Lodolite quartz earrings with sunstone and smoky topaz cabochons

What are the most challenging and most rewarding aspects of being a jewelry designer?

Overall it’s very rewarding. I love making jewelry, playing with pretty things, making something unique and special. As an artist, I love the whole process of a piece from conception to creation and the final. It’s so satisfying!

The most challenging aspect is the financial scenario of remaining independent (which I am — I built my business piece by piece) yet having to be the bank for everyone until something sells. This impacts everything in my business, ranging from holding me up from creating something new because I can’t buy stones, to impeding marketing plans like photoshoots, etc. From a creative point, the most challenging would be waiting for those perfect stones to “find” each other. Sometimes I’ll hold onto a gem that caught my eye for years before it can be made into that special something.

 

Aquaprase "tiger's tooth" necklace with cabochon clusters of aquamarine, smoky citrine, and tourmaline
Aquaprase “tiger’s tooth” necklace with cabochon clusters of aquamarine, smoky citrine, and tourmaline

If you’d like to see Daria’s work in person, click here for a list of retailers. She also has a wonderful online shop. Thanks to Daria for her time and talent!

Pat Flynn: Designer

Do you believe in fate? I most definitely do. As I was flying to Las Vegas to attend the Couture jewelry show, I made a short list of those designers I really wanted to meet while I was there. After ogling Pat Flynn‘s nail bracelets online for quite some time now, and seeing his name on the list of first time attendees, I knew he was definitely on my list. As luck (or fate) would have it, he happened to walk in the hotel room one evening where I was hanging out with a few friends. Really? Really. Lucky me, as I got to chat with him a bit before visiting his booth at the show.

pat flynn nail bracelets
When I met with Pat at his booth, I couldn’t help but pile on a few of his nail bracelets— an iconic mainstay of his line. They are surprisingly light on the wrist, and they stack effortlessly. Pat explained that he himself hand forges each and every one of the iron nails. The juxtaposition of the hand-forged steel and the sparkle of diamonds and gold is just fantastic.

Pat grew up in rural Pennsylvania, and he began making jewelry in high school. He bought an old Craft jewelry toolkit and went to work. (He said he still has some of the original tools from this kit!) He went to art school, and then began working in factories in NYC as a young father, commuting hours a day, and then coming home to work in his own studio at night. I couldn’t write fast enough to capture all the work experience he’s had, including making the model for the first twist bracelet at David Yurman! How cool is that?!

 

diamond cuff bracelets
diamond cuff bracelets

Pat is clearly passionate about his work, and he enjoys teaching as well. I find it fascinating that he combines old-school forging with fire and hammer with the art of goldsmithing and stone-setting. He is a one-stop shop! This photo is from his website, and it really gives a feel for his process.

pat flynn at work

I couldn’t help but admire this necklace, with a detachable freshwater Chinese pearl dangling from the center.

pat flynn necklace
Since feathers are one of my talismans, I was certainly drawn to this dramatic feather brooch.

pat flynn feather brooch
And what about these earrings? I would describe them as contemporary, elegant, and yet a little bad ass all at the same time!

pat flynn earrings
Pat has made an indelible mark on the world of jewelry. You can find his work in permanent collections at The Met in NYC and the Chicago Arts Institute, just to name a couple. It was a real honor to meet you, Pat. Thank you so much for your time and all your travel tips about your beloved Scotland. I can’t wait to see it myself!!

amy roseveare and pat flynn

Audrius Krulis: Designer

When you visit the website of jewelry designer Audrius Krulis, you’re greeted with the words, “playful forms evoked by nature; a glimpse into imagination narrated through sculpture.” This sentiment perfectly embodies this line, where precious materials and sculpture intersect.

adrius krulis rings
Audrius, originally from Lithuania, has been working in the jewelry business for over 20 years. He launched his own line about 4 years ago, and I must say that I adore it. I can see how his degrees in sculpture and architecture have translated into gold and gemstones. His rings were the first pieces I ever saw of his work, and it was wonderful seeing a range designs at the JCK show. His work with boulder opals is quite fantastic. The large orange-hued one I tried on is an Ethiopian opal. He told me that the stone dictates the design. And his mind is so active that, “By the time I finish one, I have 5 more ideas!”

adrius krulis boulder opal rings
adruis krulis opal rings
At the show, I was excited to see the breadth of his collection. I’d never seen his bangles, these below adorned with ombre sapphires and diamonds.

adrius krulis bangles
These hoop drop earrings are convertible to just huggies if you want a more subtle look.

adrius krulis earrings
I was happy to check out one of Audrius’ favorite pieces, a blue sapphire and gold bracelet. The mechanics in the construction are just superb, and it felt effortless on my wrist.

adrius krulis sapphire bracelet
Perhaps you’re looking for a diamond necklace you can wear every day? But one that’s more contemporary and not so traditional? He’s got it!

adrius krulis diamond necklace
Audrius is basically a one-man shop, with the exception of photography and advertising. I have a feeling his son, Karolis, is instrumental in that department.

 

Adrius and Karolis Krulis
Audrius and Karolis Krulis

I can picture some of the people in my livfe just loving these pendants, with their luxe organic feel and autumn-y color palette.

adrius krulis pendants
If you’ve been following me for a while, you know I’m always on the lookout for unique stud earrings. I can tell you, I’ve never seen any like these, have you?

adruis krulis stud earrings
If you’d like an up-close look at some of his work, click here for a list of retailers.

Cindy Edelstein Memorial Charity Auction

Cindy Edelstein was a powerful woman in the world of jewelry. I met her a few times over the years, and I was so impressed with her devotion to both jewelry designers and the industry as a whole. When she tragically passed last year, it left a deep hole in the heart of the jewelry world. The Contemporary Jewelry Design Group (CJDG), in association with Couture, is honoring her legacy with an online jewelry auction, and bidding will be opening tomorrow, May 15, 2017.

CJDC-ad-final-MS
There are over 30 unique pieces on the auction block, each generously donated by CJDG members. Proceeds from the auction will benefit Jewelers for Children and the Women’s Jewelry Association Scholarship Fund. Here’s a little more about these recipients:

“Jewelers for Children is a non-profit founded in 1999 by the U.S. jewelry industry with the mission of helping children in need. Since its inception, JFC has donated more than $51 million to programs serving children whose lives have been affected by illness, abuse, or neglect.

The Women’s Jewelry Association established the “Cindy Edelstein Jewelry Design Scholarship” in 2016 to honor Cindy’s unwavering commitment to the WJA and the careers of women. This scholarship, in the amount of $5,000, is awarded annually.”

Bidding runs May 15- June 3 at 4pm. The winners will be announced at the Couture cocktail party following the close of the show at 6:00 pm on June 3, 2017. And don’t worry — you don’t have to be present to win. This auction is open to the public, and the jewelry will be sent to the winning bidders.

Just to tempt you, here are a few of the gorgeous pieces that could be yours….

Skye pendant from Julez Bryant

julez bryant skye pendant
Knife Edge hoop earrings from Suzy Landa

suzy landa signature knife edge hoop earrings
Pamela Froman yellow and pink gold Scrolls bar necklace with diamonds

pamela froman pink and yellow gold scrolls bar necklace with diamonds
Inverted diamond and oxidized silver earrings from TAP by Todd Pownell

tap by todd pownell diamond earrings
Dana Bronfman’s Trina ring in yellow gold with diamonds

dana bronfman trina ring in yellow gold with diamonds
Antique Greek coin necklace from Jane Bohan

jane bohan antique greek coin necklace
Raw diamond disc earrings from Todd Reed

todd reed raw diamond disc earrings
So have I got your attention now? I thought so. Head on over to the auction site and bid for both beauty and a great cause.

(Original photo of Cindy by Dario Calmese/ Artwork by Mike Pfeffer)

TAP by Todd Pownell

I became a BIG fan of TAP by Todd Powell after seeing his line at the Union Square location of Gallery of Jewels in San Francisco. My clients were equally adoring, and quite a few of them now proudly have his pieces in their own jewelry box. What really set this line apart for me was how the diamonds are often set upside down. Such a chic way to deconstruct the typical piece of diamond jewelry.

diamond jewelry from tap by todd pownell
Launched in 2008, this husband/wife team created their line in their live/work space in Cleveland, Ohio. Here’s a shot of their space and team from their website. Looks like a creative wonderland!

tap by todd pownell team
When I spoke with them at the Couture show, I asked them who their customer is. Todd responded, “Someone who appreciates something unexpected — a mix of chaos and order. Often it’s a particular diamond that mysteriously draws a person in; the winking and twilight effect in how the diamonds flash.” I totally get that, as I have experienced how certainly pieces seem to magnetically attract me.

You are really the master of setting diamonds “upside down.” How did this become part of your intrinsic style? It’s so cool!

I first started setting smaller single cut diamonds upside down into pieces for a wanted “twinkling” diamond effect in pieces in which I wanted a “night sky” motif or look. As a gemologist, I understood that the pavillion would function as a deep or high-angled rose cut, and the table would then became the “bottom” of the stone in which the light would internally reflect off of in more of a broad flash or winking effect, instead of the usual bling look. The cool factor, as you say, was achieved simply by doing the unexpected, but it was a fully conscious understood decision on my part.

Here’s an out-of-this-world pair of earrings I admired at the Couture show. They feature 8.31 carats of diamonds, ranging from white to grey to subtly colored. It’s a mix of inverted and pin-set stones on a sheet of white gold, backed in yellow gold.

tap by todd pownell diamond earrings
How do you and Debra compliment each other in the jewelry design and making process?

I had a strictly technical goldsmith & stone setting training, and I followed that up with a full graduate gemologist education. Debra is the studio artist and was educated in art history & jewelry studio practices.  She spent 7 years in Germany working and maintaining a studio and participating in the gallery scene. The difference and combination of our backgrounds and exposure was especially complimentary in developing our studio practice today. I do most of the initial designing of our current line and Debra fine-tunes our final decisions and does all of our custom wax modeling in studio. She also handles our studio’s internal pubic relations. Our small TAP team and myself do all the fabricating and I final finish each piece. We also both compliment each other in creating a positive working studio environment, which is very enriching for us.

 

Todd and Debra
Todd and Debra

I have to share this necklace I was ogling out at the Couture show, made of yellow diamond “slabs” in a mosaic pattern with marquis diamonds in the “cracks.” Can you believe this one-of-a-kind piece?

tap by todd pownell yellow diamond necklace
Do you have any current favorites you’ve been working on?

This wide 18K cuff is brand new and something a little different for us. It is 25mm wide at the top and tapers to 2mm wide. It has a hinge and spring mechanism that opens and closes to wear. The diamonds (3.35cts TW) are bead set into darkened palladium. I like the structure and tension within the design and the bold look of the piece. This is a fresh piece made for the upcoming Couture show.

tap by todd pownell cuff

This line is also a strong force in the world of alternative bridal rings. I tried on this prong set pear-shaped ring, and I could easily envision a bride wearing it. OR…I’d wear it as a right hand ring; you know I’m a big believer in women buying themselves jewelry!

tap by todd pownell diamond ring
There was such a wide array of styles at the show, it was honestly a bit overwhelming. With the mix of metals, textures and designs, I was in diamond heaven!!

tap by todd pownell diamond rings
Although I didn’t see this ring in person, I can’t help but falling in love with it. It’s a golden dish full of sparkling treasures.

tap by todd pownell ring with diamonds
I hope this look into the world of TAP by Todd Pownell has brightened your day. If you’d like to see some of their work in person, click here for a list of retailers.