Though spring in San Francisco currently seems to be colder than our winter, my eye is still being caught by the ever-popular insect motif in jewelry. As I was walking up Sutter Street the other day, this little Victorian beauty buzzed my name from the front window of Lang Antique & Estate Jewelry.
While so beautiful, this intricate piece is certainly an investment for most people. It got me thinking about how this pin would be on the catwalk at Fashion Week. But how to translate this to the street? Or as often dubbed, “Runway to Realway.” I took a look around and compiled a collection of ideas. Here they are, in no particular order.
Tomorrow, as I head out for the day, I’m going to see how many of these winged creatures I see, both in reality and in the form of jewelry. I hope you have a lovely spring day!
I love weeding through my clients’ jewelry boxes. It’s amazing what one can uncover when you get to the far corners, pulling out items that likely haven’t been seen in years. When you start making a little pile of singular earrings that are missing their mate, perhaps a wedding ring from a former marriage, or something that is just SO not your style anymore, things can stack up fast. This is exactly what I did with a client a few months ago, and here’s the handful we ended up with.
Knowing we had some great diamonds and gold in hand, we headed to Rebecca Overmann’s studio in San Francisco for a design session. The possibilities were endless, and Rebecca took to her notebook to start sketching out some ideas.
The first decision we needed to make was what to do with the large, round solitaire diamond. My client spends countless hours a week out on the tennis court, so we thought a bezel-set pendant on a simple chain would be ideal. It wouldn’t get in the way of her backhand, yet it would certainly add a little glitz to her tennis whites. Boy did it turn out beautifully!
Not only is it elegant on its own, but it layers so easily with other necklaces.
My client has also really gotten into stacking rings, so a couple new ones were definitely in order. Here’s a great shot of the first one off the bench.
The second one she made is a bubble design, shown paired with the ring above, on her middle finger. So fun!
Here’s another combo I spotted her wearing. (The larger ring is Tap by Todd Pownell.)
Finally, my client was in need of a pair of diamond studs that would also be great for her athletic lifestyle. Rebecca did not disappoint.
So now, instead of old, unused items gathering dust in her jewelry box, my client has a new necklace, two beautiful rings, and a pair of earrings that she will wear all the time. Thanks for everything, Rebecca!
I think it was the sinuous, exotic shapes and deeply colored stones that first drew me to Anahita’s booth at the Couture show. Perusing her collection, it’s no surprise that the first bracelet I tried on was this this horn cuff, with an ebony wood dome, accented with 18K gold, diamonds and moonstones. It was right up my luxe bohemian alley, and she explained that it was inspired by her travels to Bali and Cambodia.
I was so pleased to meet Anahita (Ana) Stein and see her line in Las Vegas. Her Persian heritage and background in architecture are perfectly melded in her sculptural, fluid designs. Take, for example, her “Wave” bangles, which stack together in an organic pattern.
Tear drops are a common theme in her jewelry, and she told me she’s inspired by the tears that Persian soldiers shed with their wives before going off to war. This pair of earrings has drops of both beryl and Mandarin garnet, alonside blue sapphire, tsavorite and yellow beryl in 18K yellow gold.
This “Sultan” ring has tears of ruby briolettes with diamonds and a fabulous grey moonstone, all set in white gold.
The brushed finish on the gold really makes these labradorite cabochons pop, don’t you think?
I’m sure you’re now seeing the exotic allure of this line, and the curves continue with this cuff, featuring cognac diamonds and prehnite cabochons. I just adore the yellow-green glow of the prehnite.
Made in New York City with recycled gold and conflict-free stones, Anahita’s “wearable architecture” is a beauty to behold. Click here for a list of retailers near you.
Being a self-taught cook, I can wrap my brain around. Perhaps even teaching yourself how to dance. But being a self-taught fine jeweler? That’s on a whole other level! Self-taught Elizabeth Garvin, based in the Village in NYC, has been designing jewelry for over 20 years, and she launched her fine jewelry line a couple years ago. It’s very modern, full of geometric design, and extremely wearable. Her signature is the “Cyclone Ring,” and I’m sure you can see why.
Hand-fabriating each piece with 18K gold, 950 palladium, oxidized silver and diamonds, Elizabeth truly comes up with original pieces, the likes of which I haven’t seen before. It would be worth creating an entire outfit around these earrings.
In the same “gust” series as these earrings, is this complex ring. I can envision the gusts of wind that the shape of the metal represents. (At least that’s how I’m interpreting the design…)
In keeping with sinuous curves, is this “Eye of the Storm” pendant. That’s a storm I’d be willing to brave!
This “Spiral” necklace would add interest when worn with any outfit, even on the most casual of days.
I am seeing this “Twist” ring as the perfect option for a bold middle finger ring.
Elizabeth says, “When a woman designs jewelry for another woman, there’s a sensitivity…carefully honed to suit a woman’s body, to flow with her lifestyle, and to become part of her own personal expression.” Well said. I can certainly see these earrings being part of my personal expression, with their mixed metals and diamond accents. So pretty!
It was wonderful spending time with Elizabeth at the Couture show. Click here for a list of retailers near you.
I don’t know about you, but when most people think about Bottega Veneta, their luxurious woven handbags come to mind, right? What many people may not realize is that they also have a selection of both fashion and fine jewelry. I stopped into the San Francisco store recently to see what they were showing, and I must say that I really enjoyed the diversity in the fashion jewelry cases. Made in Vicenza, Italy, I couldn’t help but be lured by the colors and sparkle of these Pepita (meaning “nugget”) necklaces.
They come in two lengths. The shorter ones (14.5 inches) have a small silver link between each crystal, while the longer ones (18.25 inches) have a longer, more decorative link. I think this pyrite version is quite lovely and versatile. I learned that, “Pyrite is a unique protector, drawing energy from the Earth through the physical body and into the aura creating a defensive shield against negative energies, environmental pollutants, emotional attack and physical harm. It also supports one with a spirit of boldness and assertive action when protecting others, the planet, or in standing up for important issues of community.” Interesting that that’s the stone I was drawn to…
It’s easy to layer these necklaces as well. Currently, this line comes in five colors: ciel (blue), saffron (the saturated yellow), new ascencio (deep green–their newest color), natural (clear) and pyrite.
If you just want a hint of this look, then you may find the rings right up your (style) alley.
I couldn’t help but try on the turquoise pieces as well, as you know my inner bohemian goddess just gravitates towards it! Here’s a bracelet and a couple rings I played with.
And how sweet is this headband? Perfect with a diaphenous dress at an outdoor party on a warm evening, don’t you think?
There were also two major silver necklaces that were quite the center of attention. While they look heavy, they are in fact extremely light-weight. The maltese cross with the druzy in the center is just fabulous. J’adore!
If you’re a big fan of the iconic woven texture of Bottega, then you can rest assured that you’ll find it in silver. Here are a couple pieces with their signature look.
Thanks so much to Karina at the SF store for showing me around the collections!
Do you know what granulation is? I had an idea, but I didn’t truly understand what it was until I met Jack and Elizabeth Gualtiere of Zaffiro at the Couture show. Granulation is an ancient goldsmithing technique which is, “…a decorative process that consists of applying minute spheres of gold to a surface of similar gold alloy and then heating the entire piece to a temperature high enough to form a permanent bond between the surface and the spheres.” Impressive, right? Take a look at this pair of earrings. As described by Elizabeth, “These are our one-of-a-kind classic “Fern Curl” earrings that are set with amethyst briolettes and teal diamonds in granulated 22kt yellow gold, with 18kt yellow gold posts.”
Being a fan of all shades of aqua, I was immediately drawn to the hue of this necklace in their case. The pendant is the surface skin of an aquamarine, which is very reminiscent of Roman Glass. It’s basically what the stone looks like when it comes out of the ground. J’Adore.
Jack and Elizabeth originally discovered Etruscan granulation while on a study abroad program during college. They began working together 22+ years ago, and they were friends before the whole dating/marriage thing. (Love that!) They live and work in Portland, Oregon, where each piece is completely hand-crafted. I thought it was so interesting that they consult on each others’ designs, yet each one makes their own pieces from start to finish. Apparently Jack is more drawn to architectural, geometric designs, while Elizabeth gravitates towards curves. Though through it all, granulation is the core, common thread.
These two pendants begged to be tried on, and who am I to ignore jewelry saying, “Hello, Amy!” These are Anglo Saxon bronzes from the 6th Century, which were dug up in London. They truly take “one-of-a-kind” jewelry to the next level!
While 22K gold is their main medium, they have also added oxidized silver to their repertoire. Their Etrusco group showcases their metal work, alongside colorful gems.
The cuffs in this series blew me away, Here’s one I tried on at the show.
And here’s another design from the same collection they recently posted on social media. The main stone is Australian boulder opal, accented with teal and white diamonds.
These “nebula” cuffs, part of the Etrusco series, are, “..inspired by the imagery of distant constellations, points of light against a dark universe, and the harmony of seemingly randomly arranged objects..” I completely see it, don’t you?
While speaking with Jack and Elizabeth, I couldn’t help but notice the color of this bracelet, as it wasn’t rose gold, yet I couldn’t quite nail down what I was looking at. It is apparently a new patina they’ve been working on called the “orchid patina.” It’s still in the experimental stages, and they have yet to achieve the color on gold. I would not be surprised if this has now been accomplished.
I was e-mailing with Elizabeth this week, and she shared this image of a new necklace, most definitely fit for a princess! It is a one-of-a-kind Etrusco pendant, set with a tanzanite cabochon, purple sapphires, teal diamonds and a mint green tourmaline in 22kt yellow gold, with forged and oxidized sterling silver. They truly have a gift with color.
If you’d like to take a closer look into the intensely complex process of making a custom piece, then you’ll most certainly enjoy this 4 minute video. I know I did!
I likely took up a bit too much time asking a million questions of this dynamic design duo, but I truly appreciated every moment of it. I am very excited to see their most current designs at Couture again this year!
I’m so glad I had time to pop into the Rock Vault at Couture before I had to jump on my flight home, as I was blown away by the architectural designs of Jo Hayes Ward. The Rock Vault, run by the British Fashion Council, is a talented group of British fine jewelry designers exceptionally curated by Stephen Webster. I can certainly see why Jo’s line is part of this impressive line-up!
This set of six hexagon stacking rings is made of “little bits,” as Jo described to me. I adore the different shades of gold (particularly the intriguing shade of warm white gold) mixed with diamonds. Jo dreams up these incredible designs, and is then able to use CAD to assist in making 3D models, which she then prints in wax and casts. It’s a perfect intersection of technology and jewelry, don’t you think?
This sphere ring really give you an idea of the dimension to her designs.
Growing up in London, the spaces and architecture in her urban environment clearly were a huge inspiration. She was a classmate with (the fantastic) Polly Wales at the Royal College of Arts, where she received her masters in goldsmithing, silversmithing, metalwork and jewelry in 2006. Upon graduation, she launched her line from a little workbench right in her own bedroom.
I recently received some images from Jo of her latest and greatest, so I want to share those with you. First up is this shimmering pair of earrings.
To demonstrate how her earrings catch, reflect and refract the light when they move, take a look at this video.
She has also started incorporating colored gemstones in her designs, as seen in these rings, which include aquamarine, sapphire and tourmaline. You can see how they easily stack, or can be worn individually.
Of course, one can never have enough diamonds, right? So the multi-sided stratus rings edged in diamonds are clearly a girl’s best friend. Again, I’m swooning with the unique color this warm white gold, as seen on the ring on the right.
Just in this past (almost) year, since I originally met her, I’m in awe of how her designs have evolved and her line has grown. I hope to see her soon, so I can try on some of these beauties in person!
I first met Rachel Clinnick, the amazing designer behind San Francisco-based Thalia Jewelry, last fall. I was already a fan long before meeting her, as I had admired some of her work in various stores. I was so honored to have lunch with her this week, where I got to know more about both her and her passion. I asked if she’d be willing to share some of her favorite pieces, and she was happy to oblige. (Grazie!) So here is what she had to share, along with her own descriptions of the work. Enjoy the visual delight!
“The spider brooch was a custom piece made for our client from her grandmother’s rings. I sketched the design and we created it in hand-carved wax first, then hand-set, hand-filed and shaped the rest of the piece. It is just stunning in person.”
“This gold Spanish shipwreck coin from the 1700’s is a special piece. Worn on our handmade 22k chain, it really brings out the old world feel.”
“A collection of my most cherished stackable rings in diamonds and opals offer organic opulence with a classic touch — easy to start with one and stack over time!”
“This was a piece I finished and sold the very next day. It’s topaz and opal in 18k, all hand-carved as well as hand-fabricated; it sold as a gift for one of my favorite clients and I’m so happy she has it!”
“Our Zodiac Collection rings are just so fun and sentimental. You can choose one-sided or double-sided. I wear my own with my sign on one side and my husband’s on the other!”
I have a feeling you may now be as mesmerized by her collection as I am! I thank Rachel for being my “guest contributor” today! If you’d like to explore the line some more, you can see her work at various boutiques, and she also takes special appointments. Click here for that info.
What?! Don’t you live/work in SF? Well, yes…I do. I am a Bay Area native. I work in San Francisco many days a week, and I lived in Pacific Heights for a few years as well. (I currently live 15 miles south of the city.) But don’t you find that when you live somewhere, you often don’t take the time to visit all the cool, local places as opposed to when you’re visiting somewhere new? Heck, I know SF born and bred people who have never been to Alcatraz or walked the Golden Gate Bridge, but I know all my friends who’ve visited from abroad have done these things!
This was the impetus for Friday’s field trip, with my fabulous co-hort, Jennifer Bressie. There were a few jewelry stores in areas of SF we don’t often frequent which have been on our “must see” list. So we both cleared our schedule for the day to check them out. Jen was the driver, and I was the the direction girl…(Jen probably should have been worried when I had my directions scrawled on a piece of paper, instead of using Google maps on my phone!)
Off on our adventure!
Our first stop was going to be D & H Sustainable Jewelers in the Castro. Now I know that directions aren’t my strong suit, but the streets in the area where Noe and Market (and others?) meet are so catywompus, that we found ourselves stuck behind this trolley, at a dead stop. (Please note the “Dead End” sign to the right. It’s true, signs don’t lie.) Oops! Let’s do a “creative” U-turn. Perfect. Did I mention I’m not the best navigator?!
But it was all worth it, and Jen’s superb driving skills got us to our destination. In a matter of about 10 minutes, I knew that I wanted Shawn Higgins, half of the duo behind D & H Sustainable Jewelers, as a new best friend. His humor, expertise, and openness are infectious.
This store is among the first that will be SCS certified, meaning that 100% of their products are ethically sourced and sustainable. What a fabulous feat! They sell their own designs, as well as representing many other jewelry designers. It’s clear that bridal is a huge category for them. Being the magpie that I am, I went straight for the bling-iest ring in the case, featuring a flawless yellow canary diamond. (This is one of their own designs.)
Another one of their amazing pieces is this cage pendant, which took over a year to make, to get it just right. It’s made of sterling silver and 14K gold, and housed an incredible Alexander the Great coin, dating back 2500 years. Adore.
You can open it up, and really put whatever sort of talisman you’d like inside.
I also thought this necklace, made from a re-purposed 1910 Edwardian lingerie pin was quite fantastic.
If you’re looking for a supremely unique wedding ring for your guy, then check out this Gibeon meteorite set in rose gold by Lashbrooke!
After briefly meeting Lindsay (the other partner), we had to run. Lunch was most definitely next on the agenda, and you can’t go wrong with the croque monsieur (for me) or the burger sans bun (for Jen–she’s so good!) at Absinthe in Hayes Valley.
With our appetites sufficiently satisfied, were were off to Metier. You may be familiar with this store. They spent 5 years on Maiden Lane (Union Square), 16 years on Sutter (where they were a large clothing and jewelry boutique), and then a year in the Shreve building, before moving to this new location on Laguna. This jewel-box of a boutique offers both vintage/antique jewelry as well as merchandise from current designers. The more carefully you look, the more you see. The owners, Sheri Evans and Trina Papini, have an impeccable eye, so the collection is curated to perfection. During our visit, the place was hopping with customers!
I couldn’t resist trying on these Georgian rings, which are from the late 1700’s-early 1800’s. Amazeballs.
Or what about one of these silver bracelets, from Victorian to Arts & Crafts? So easy to mix with current outfits!
One of the current designers they carry is Arielle de Pinto, who weaves magic with metal. The ombre finish on this necklace is just perfect.
Loved seeing Sheri and Trina, and I’ll certainly be back soon.
Our last stop of the day was in the Mission. Love & Luxe is an amazing jewelry gallery and atelier owned by artist-in-residence, Betsy Barron. She shows her own work and also showcases 40+ other hand-crafted lines in her spacious store. As luck would have it, she came to the store during our visit. Yay!
First checking out Betsy’s line, I couldn’t help but try on a few rings.
Jen was in love with this rose gold locket from 1870. She is a total rose gold girl!
I definitely have always had a thing for turquoise, and this vintage-inspired design with Sleeping Beauty turquoise by Chris Neff made me smile.
Definitely one of the most unique lines I’ve ever seen is James Banks, which is a collaboration between Adam Schulman and Heidi Nahser-Fink. Here is their necklace called “Lightkeeper.” On one necklace, there is a glass bulb filled with black diamonds and one ruby. Then on the other necklace are the “tools” you can use to open the bulb to add/change whatever you want inside. Have you ever seen something like this?!
Even the box it comes in is exquisite.
There was also a lovely selection of work by Johnny Ninos. His current collection is inspired by barnacles, as shown in these rings. Organic beauty, no doubt.
Jen had to take one more look at that locket before we had to leave and get back on the road…
I can’t think of a better way to spend the day–with a life-long friend (We actually went to kindergarten together!) looking at gorgeous jewelry! Thanks to all of you for your time, knowledge and kindness!
There are opal rings, and then there are opalrings. This one, by Omi Prive, recently won both the Grand Prize in the JCK Jewlers’ Choice Awards (for best ring design over $10K) andW Magazine Readers’ Choice Award.
The huge center opal, a 4.33 carat Lightning Ridge black opal, is surrounded by .46 carats of trillion green tsavorite garnets and .24 carats of blue sapphires. In addition, there are .46 carats of brilliant round diamonds in the 18K gold shank. Even better, this beauty was made by hand right here in the USA in Los Angeles.
“We are honored to win the Grand Prize award; it is very meaningful to me, as jewelry retailers are the ones that voted on our piece!” says Niveet Nagpal, President and Designer of Omi Privé. “My passion lies in color, and I am especially pleased with the way the colors come together in this ring. I am excited and honored that it has been recognized amongst so many beautiful entries.”
Since this company launched in 2012, they have consistently been represented in the JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards — bravo! Personally, I cannot wait to see it in person at the Couture Show in Vegas coming up this season.