Page Sargisson: Designer

As is often the case, I first came across the intriguing designs of New York-based jewelry designer, Page Sargisson, on Instagram. I was at once taken by the texture of the gold, and the wearability of this fine jewelry line. I could easily envision wearing it every day and then dressing it up for a special occasion. I was so thrilled to finally meet her in person at the Couture show in Las Vegas. I hope you enjoy learning more about the line from Page herself.

 

I had to try on this statement cuff!

Can you tell me a bit about how you transitioned from a corporate job to jewelry making?

I grew up always making things – knitting my dolls clothes, wood carving with my grandfather and I’ve always made jewelry. After college I worked in corporate communications at a biotech company and at night I’d craft or make jewelry. People at my company started asking if they could buy the necklaces that I made, and before I knew it, I had a full-on side business. Sometimes I felt like a drug dealer when people would come into my office and I’d open my desk drawer full of necklaces. I ended up taking classes in wax carving and metalsmithing, and the wax carving brought me back to working in my grandfather’s basement studio carving ducks and dovetailed boxes.

 

Tools of the craft…

The aesthetic of your line is so unique. How would you describe it to someone seeing your work for the first time?

I want the end customer to think of the person who created the piece. I think of my file marks as brushstrokes in a painting – it gives a connection to the process of making the piece that you’re wearing. It is raw and rough – it’s not everyone’s aesthetic but it makes the sapphires a little more casual, which I think allows people to wear it everyday. I wouldn’t wear a traditional round, brilliant cut sapphire ring set in gold prongs everyday, but I do wear my rose cut sapphire bands set in 18KT gold everyday with jeans or a dress.

I know being a jeweler with ethically sourced materials is important to you. Would you please you elaborate on this?

I make a lot of engagement rings using old Euro and old mine cut diamonds – my clientele seems to respond to the idea that it was mined ages ago rather than recently. I also re-do a lot of client’s inherited jewelry. It’s so sad how much jewelry just sits in a safe. Change it, melt the old gold and re-make for your style. It’s just another way of recycling.

Do you have a favorite piece or two in your collection?

I have been wearing this signet ring on my pinky for a year now – I get so many compliments on it. It’s basically a new take on a classic.

And then I’ve really been loving these opal and ruby earrings.

What do you like best about being a jeweler? And biggest challenge?

I love creating pieces, I love working at the bench – I could be there all night carving (and sometimes I am!). The longer I’m in business, the more I realize that I’m more of an artist than a business person. I’m more excited about creating a piece that I love than hitting a sales target. And that would also be my challenge; it’s really hard to run a small business. I have to deal with accounting, inventory management and everything else while also creating pieces that I love but will also sell. It’s really hard!

Page, thank you so much for your time and insight into your luxe jewelry collection. I cannot wait to see what you’re up to next!

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Enamored with Enamel Jewelry

What do you think of enamel jewelry? Personally, until a couple years ago, I hadn’t given it much thought. But with its resurgence in popularity, I’m becoming a big fan!! Certainly enamel is nothing new, as it dates back to the 13th Century BC! (If you want to read more about the history, Lang Antiques has an amazing article about enamel jewelry.) Basically enamel is when a certain type of glass, called an allochromatic, is fused to the metal below. You may be familiar with Closionee and Champleve, which are two popular types of enamel.

Today, some jewelers are really taking this tricky technique to new heights, mixing enamel with jewels and themes that really make what’s old new again. Foundrae is one company that really has melded enamel, gold and meaningful talismans together. Here’s their Dark Blossom cuff.

Erica Molinari combines my love of momento mori and enamel in a new type of heirloom ring.

Just about a month ago I visited August in Los Angeles, and tried on this incredible emerald ring from Alice Cicolini. Not only is the peacock pattern on the side of the ring fab, but the red rim of enamel around the emerald really makes it pop!

Brooke Gregson adds a whole new dimension to enamel work with hand engraving. She said, “It is really tough to create an enamel that also can enhance the engraving and I feel this piece was successful in doing so!” Agreed, Brooke — it’s awesome!

When I first met Marc Alary back in 2015, I wrote all about his jewelry featuring animals. Now, I’m a bit obsessed with his rings with accents of enamel and diamonds. I can’t decide which design is my favorite!

Through For Future Reference, Sarah Hendler’s earrings are now on my radar. Love the touch of violet enamel on these one-of-a-kind peridot earrings.

Buddha Mama has really been expanding their enamel collection. Personally, I dig this evil eye ring. How about you?

Enamel can even play into an engagement ring, as seen in this spectacular diamond ring from Selim Mouzannar.

But let’s not forget that enamel was quite popular during the Georgian era as well. This past summer I picked up this white enamel mourning ring from Lucy Verity. She taught me that the white enamel signifies that the person died young and/or unmarried. The inscription inside is still very clear, so I must research who this man was who perished too soon.

As you can see, there’s an extremely wide array of enamel jewelry out there. Have you been noticing it where you live? Or perhaps you already have some in your jewelry box? I’d love to hear from you in the comment section below.

Celestial Dreams

I’m definitely having a moment with all things celestial — stars, the moon, constellations, etc. I’ve clearly got my head in the clouds! And there are SO many great options out there to satisfy my celestial cravings. I wanted to share 11 items with you which I absolutely adore. In no particular order, here they are.

These “written in the stars” rings from Sofia Zakia are just amazing. You can pick two different constellations, and she’ll combine them on one band. How cool is that?! I can picture them as wedding rings, friendship rings, or even one combining one’s parent’s or children’s constellations. Ok, I’ll stop gushing now.

I admit that while I covet this jacket from L’Agence, even the large doesn’t fit me. *drats* BUT…I was able to fulfill my fantasy through my client, who looked absolutely stellar in it. She’s pairing it with everything from a camouflage slip dress to a tee and jeans. Super versatile.

I co-hosted a trunk show recently with The Kollective, and this Brooke Gregson astrology pendant was among the items for sale. Dreamy, right?

Buddha Mama has it going on with these earrings! They combine the star motif with the eye and accented in white-hot enamel. Plus, isn’t the shape so edgy? Very fashion-forward.

Again, I’m lusting for these Aquazzura Cosmic Star boots from afar, as I can’t wear a heel, but boy is my client enjoying them! They are such a chic way to add some personality to any outfit.

You may have seen these Selim Mouzannar diamond star earrings on my JFT Facebook page, and they have to be included in this article. I think they’re quite spectacular. I want them…just sayin’.

Rails has quite a few styles of shirts with stars on them, but I think this shirt jacket with star patches is my fave. When I’m not in black, grey or white, army green is my go-to color.

Sirciam has been a long-time favorite with their rose gold celestial pieces. This particular ring is a real winner in my book. Even though it’s a larger scale ring, it works perfectly for every day. And yes, I have yet another client who will attest to that fact.

If you’ve been following me for a while, you know I buy myself a “boyfriend gift” for various occasions. I mean really, why should I have no boyfriend AND no jewelry?! I can’t control the boyfriend part, but I can certainly buy myself jewelry! I await the arrival of my own Samantha Knight pendant with my lucky number 13 on it to celebrate the holidays.

Luckily, I did find the perfect pair of star jeans that actually came in a size 16. Score! Loving my new Mia star print jeans from Kut. I put them with a distressed over-sized light blue chambray shirt and felt awesome.

Though I haven’t seen this Andrea Fohrman necklace in person, it sure looks fab! #goals

Honestly, this is just the tip of the starry iceberg. There are SO many options out there in clothing, jewelry and accessories, I could go quite crazy. What about you? Do you have any celestial cravings? I’d love to hear from you in the comment section.

Ashley Morgan: Custom Design

Last week I had the honor of attending the Project Glimmer luncheon, and I was so pleased to run into local jewelry designer, Ashley Berman, of Ashley Morgan Designs. (If you missed my previous article about her, then click here to catch up.) We were talking about business, and she told me how her custom work has really been taking off. With her creativity, I was not surprised to hear this.

I welcome Ashley as a guest writer this week, where she shares one of her latest custom creations. Enjoy the article!

It all began with a dress. The dress was an elegant one: designed by Carolina Herrera, it was whimsical in design, with detailed lace set in garden-inspired patterns. When I was approached to make a necklace and earring set for this outfit — which was destined for a wedding — I was immediately inspired. I found myself intrigued by the intricate lace patterns, and sketched an elaborate collar necklace composed of medallions that had four separate designs; each reflected an element of the design of the dress.

I chose my favorite for the matching drop earrings. After pulling different themes and motifs from the dress, I customized the neckline to fit the dress exactly. I talked with my client about what she hoped the necklace and earring set would represent; I learned that she was attending her eldest daughter’s wedding, and that she wanted these pieces to be a celebration of her, the event, and what it symbolized. We chose blush pink sapphires as the stone that would stud the necklace: these represented the little girl she had raised into a lovely young woman, now all grown up.

The next step was to finalize the details. For any custom project, a computerized CAD is required to cement the crucial elements. After my client had seen the sketch of her lovely necklace and earrings, a CAD was made. This was then shown to my client, who happily approved what she saw. With the CAD and details confirmed, the project was ready to begin!

Production of the necklace involved carving each tiny element of the necklace and earrings out of wax, and then casting the medallions individually. Every rose gold swirl, vine, star, and cross-hatch had to be formed expertly and exactly. Then the many sparkling sapphires were added, in their hues of blush-pink. We wanted the necklace to exude a warmth and a glow, to give the impression of a natural garden preserved in gold and precious gems. This feel was achieved through the combination of rose gold and blush-pink sapphires.

The final result was more enchanting then we could have dreamed. A symphony of pink and rose hues, the necklace lays elegantly against the collarbone. The earrings seem to twinkle as they dangle, a perfect match for the necklace. A true joy from start to finish, this necklace is without a doubt one of a kind. Contact me today to begin your own custom project–experience the joy and satisfaction of bespoke fine jewelry created specifically to suit you.

(This article originally appeared on Ashley’s website.)

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Taru Jewelry by Sefik Kabas

I was enjoying the opening night party at the Couture show in Las Vegas — sipping my cocktail while sitting on a poolside tuffet, and I caught a glimpse of something quite fabulous out of the corner of my eye. Hopping up to inspect more closely, I met Sefik Kabas, the designer of Taru Jewelry, who was donning one of his own designs. I made a point to visit this Istanbul-based designer in the showroom the next day to see more of his work.

 

First up, I had to try on this ram’s head bracelet, encrusted with champagne, brown and rough white diamonds!

Sefik gave me a tour of his collection and answered some questions for me.

Your artistic background has included jewelry, glass blowing, interior design, and more. How did you end up launching your own jewelry line, Taru Jewelry, in 2015?

I studied fine arts majoring in sculpture and glass blowing. I designed and produced furniture with bronze sculptural details from ancient civilizations.

 

large mirror designed by Sefik

Jewelry was our family business from 1976 till 1990. I spent a lot of time in our jewelry workshop during those times. Going back to the roots, in 2015 I decided to get back to jewelry design and created the Taru brand.

 

Taru falcon bracelet

Your line is full of brilliant animals — how do you select which ones to focus on?

I have an interest in archeology. I focus on the animals of power with mythical symbols.

I was just amazed by the Queen Bee necklace at Couture, and you told me that it took three and a half months to make. What was the driving force behind this piece?

I wanted to create a one of a kind queen bee showpiece — all handmade, everything made from scratch. Not starting with a drawing, but working freestyle. I also wanted to show the movements of the bees as in real life.

details on the back side of the necklace

Can you share a recent creation with us, and tell us a bit about it?

My recent creation is the ceremonial horse bracelet for women. The earliest archaeological evidence for the domestication of the horse dates back to approximately 3500 BC. The mythologies of many cultures include references to horses. Horses were used to preserve cultural traditions and for ceremonial purposes to convey royalty. I created this ceremonial horse with a gold chamfron decorated with precious stones.

Who do you see as the Taru customer?

My customer is looking for uniqueness — one who appreciates handwork and wants to wear bold statement jewelry with a story. The Taru customer is both men and women.

 

This earring only takes one piercing, if you can believe it!

For an amazing look at Sefik’s work, take a minute to watch this beautiful video:

I’m so happy to have met Sefik at the show and see his line, full of extraordinary detail and archeological flavor.

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Lucie Gledhill: Designer

About a year ago, I had the pleasure of meeting Lucie Gledhill at the New York Now show. Her work has really stuck in my head, and I wanted to share some of her pieces with you. Lucie is a UK based jewelry designer who’s about 7 years into her line. What really made an impression on me is how she literally weaves with metal — take a look.

This is her Rope Chain necklace, which takes about 4 days to make. One link always has 2 other links to create the woven look.

She also has a really chic interpretation of the traditional gold chain; this is the Jumbled Curb Chain in 18K gold. I think it’s perfectly imperfect in effect, don’t you?

She has another group of necklaces that she described to me as both “ancient and feminine.” She creates this look by fusing white and yellow gold and accenting with diamond beads.

These firework earrings really made a splash with my short hairstyle.

I didn’t get to see this ring in person, but I’m loving the feel of this Magic Eye ring, with its marquis cut ruby and handcrafted recycled 18K gold.

All in all, a darn cool line! Would it suit your personal style? Do tell.

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Rallou at August in Los Angeles

I spent my birthday this past February down in southern California with my bestie — my mom. We pile all our things in her light green mini van and take a road trip about once a year, hitting all our favorite towns and shops up and down the state. This year, I added a very special jewlery store to my birthday agenda, and boy am I glad I did!

I have been following August on Instagram for quite some time, drooling over their well-curated collection of designers. Their cohesiveness in style, yet breadth of designers has quite literally left me breathless on more than one occasion. I was thrilled when Bill Hermsen, the owner of August,  let me know about a new collection they picked up, Rallou Mindfulness. August is, in fact, the first place in the United States to carry the Greek-based line from designer Rallou Katsari. Needless to say, I knew if this line was going into August, there was no doubt that I’d love it as well.

rallou mindfulness jewelry
I asked Bill what drew him to this line and he replied, “Rallou’s work is deceptively simple and executed in luxurious materials. There’s something very compelling about that combination.” I couldn’t agree more. As I scrolled through Rallou’s Instagram feed, a feeling of calm came over me, and it really make me think about how powerful her clean designs are.

Each of the designs has a carefully selected name and meaning. Take, for example, the drop rings, in which the drop is a “physical representation of present moment.” Throughout Rallou’s “Seemingly Solid” collection, “The drop is used as a physical representation of the present moment and works as a mindful reminder to live, to flow, to simply be here and now.”

rallou drop rings
rallou drop ring
Rallou’s whole concept is that of mindfulness — being present in the here and now. This ethos is very evident on the quotes on her Instagram page.

eckhart tolle quote
As I looked through this line, I was particularly drawn to some of the earring designs. Here is the minimal and elegant “Now” stud, which creatively sits on the ear unlike any I’ve seen before. Its meaning is, “right Now life unfolds, notice.”

rallou now stud earring
rallou now earring
There are also various permutations of the earring, including this one which I love, the “Connection,” which reminds us of our connection to nature.

rallou connection earring
The “Will” earring (which also doubles as a brooch) encourages “the Will to bring peace inside and outside yourself.”

rallou will earring
There’s even an earring which doesn’t require any piercings — the “Joy.”

rallou joy earring
rallou mindfulness joy earring
This article wouldn’t be complete without also showing you the “Moment” ring, with its fluidity coming to life in gold and diamonds. It reminds us to “bring attention to this moment.”

rallou moment ring
Isn’t it just dreamy on the hand?!

rallou mindfulness moment ring
As Bill told me, “Rallou is for the woman that appreciates subtlety and restraint, but it can also be layered beautifully with other collections.” Personally, I’m just dying to visit August again to try on this line in person and see how it effortlessly combines with other lines they carry. In the meantime, I’ll continue to gaze longingly at August’s Instagram feed and enjoy exploring their online store. With Bill’s background in textiles, jewelry, and interior design, I’m always assured a beautiful treat for the senses.

Daria de Koning: Designer

Not only is it wonderful seeing jewelry designers I know when I go to the Couture show, but I’m always invigorated by meeting designers for the first time and seeing their work in person. Daria de Koning was one of those designers I had on my short list. Her use of color is wonderful, and she definitely is a queen of cabochons, which happens to be one of my favorite cuts. As typically happens at the show, I’m exposed to stones I’ve never heard of before. Yes, I learned some new ones at Daria’s booth! Let’s dive into some Q&A with this talented designer.

 

Dagny stacking rings
Dagny stacking rings

You have a background in painting as well as jewlery, right? How does painting influence your work?

Originally I went to art school thinking I would major in painting (derailed and became a graphic design/visual communications major). Graphics really helped train my eye and painting is similar to what I’m doing now — I’m just working with “hard” color in gemstones, versus fluids like watercolors or pastels. But I’m still working to create good compositions with the flow that a good painting magically creates. It just happens to be smaller and 3-D.

 

Azure malachite necklace with polite and tourmaline
Azure malachite necklace with iolite and tourmaline

How does your jewelry making process work — sketch an idea first? Find the stones first? Something else?

It depends on the piece. I’ll make loose sketches sometimes, but a lot of the time I’ll build designs with stones and then go right to creating the 3-D piece…

 

Hexagonal aquamarine and amazonite necklace with a center stone featuring a fragment of a blue-green tourmaline crystal in quartz
Hexagonal aquamarine and amazonite necklace with a center stone featuring a fragment of a blue-green tourmaline crystal in quartz

I saw so many amazing pieces at the Couture show. Can you please share a couple of your current faves with us?

Oh jeez…there’s nothing better than having one of my “thoughts” become 3-D and real…but that tends to mean I’m most excited about whatever I’ve just finished. ha ha. I’m really stoked with my star crossed lovers bracelet. I’m starting to go down a path of working with negative and positive spaces while still incorporating my cluster cabochons. The malachite necklace is pretty baller and really packs a punch.

 

Malachite necklace with aquamarine, tourmaline and blue peruvian opal cabochons
Malachite necklace with aquamarine, tourmaline and blue Peruvian opal cabochons

And, it wasn’t at Couture because I couldn’t finish it in time, but there’s this emerald ring that is fabulous.

 

Emerald ring with sapphires, apatite, rainbow moonstone and diamonds
Emerald ring with sapphires, apatite, rainbow moonstone and diamonds

I can only imagine how difficult it must be to create something so unique and beautiful and then let it go. Have you kept any particular piece for yourself?

I do get attached to my pieces. Each one is so special and I know that I’ll never be able to recreate it, so sometimes it’s really hard to let go. But I’d be a terrible business woman if I kept them all. It’s easier when I can sell directly to a private client since I know a piece will go to a happy home. Sending it out to stores is so much harder! Funnily enough, I don’t really own much of my own jewelry. I have some prototypes I’ve built and also I’ve kept maybe four pieces that I love to wear (and are easy to wear) from earlier collections.

 

Lodolite quartz earrings with sunstone and smoky topaz cabochons
Lodolite quartz earrings with sunstone and smoky topaz cabochons

What are the most challenging and most rewarding aspects of being a jewelry designer?

Overall it’s very rewarding. I love making jewelry, playing with pretty things, making something unique and special. As an artist, I love the whole process of a piece from conception to creation and the final. It’s so satisfying!

The most challenging aspect is the financial scenario of remaining independent (which I am — I built my business piece by piece) yet having to be the bank for everyone until something sells. This impacts everything in my business, ranging from holding me up from creating something new because I can’t buy stones, to impeding marketing plans like photoshoots, etc. From a creative point, the most challenging would be waiting for those perfect stones to “find” each other. Sometimes I’ll hold onto a gem that caught my eye for years before it can be made into that special something.

 

Aquaprase "tiger's tooth" necklace with cabochon clusters of aquamarine, smoky citrine, and tourmaline
Aquaprase “tiger’s tooth” necklace with cabochon clusters of aquamarine, smoky citrine, and tourmaline

If you’d like to see Daria’s work in person, click here for a list of retailers. She also has a wonderful online shop. Thanks to Daria for her time and talent!

Audrius Krulis: Designer

When you visit the website of jewelry designer Audrius Krulis, you’re greeted with the words, “playful forms evoked by nature; a glimpse into imagination narrated through sculpture.” This sentiment perfectly embodies this line, where precious materials and sculpture intersect.

adrius krulis rings
Audrius, originally from Lithuania, has been working in the jewelry business for over 20 years. He launched his own line about 4 years ago, and I must say that I adore it. I can see how his degrees in sculpture and architecture have translated into gold and gemstones. His rings were the first pieces I ever saw of his work, and it was wonderful seeing a range designs at the JCK show. His work with boulder opals is quite fantastic. The large orange-hued one I tried on is an Ethiopian opal. He told me that the stone dictates the design. And his mind is so active that, “By the time I finish one, I have 5 more ideas!”

adrius krulis boulder opal rings
adruis krulis opal rings
At the show, I was excited to see the breadth of his collection. I’d never seen his bangles, these below adorned with ombre sapphires and diamonds.

adrius krulis bangles
These hoop drop earrings are convertible to just huggies if you want a more subtle look.

adrius krulis earrings
I was happy to check out one of Audrius’ favorite pieces, a blue sapphire and gold bracelet. The mechanics in the construction are just superb, and it felt effortless on my wrist.

adrius krulis sapphire bracelet
Perhaps you’re looking for a diamond necklace you can wear every day? But one that’s more contemporary and not so traditional? He’s got it!

adrius krulis diamond necklace
Audrius is basically a one-man shop, with the exception of photography and advertising. I have a feeling his son, Karolis, is instrumental in that department.

 

Adrius and Karolis Krulis
Audrius and Karolis Krulis

I can picture some of the people in my livfe just loving these pendants, with their luxe organic feel and autumn-y color palette.

adrius krulis pendants
If you’ve been following me for a while, you know I’m always on the lookout for unique stud earrings. I can tell you, I’ve never seen any like these, have you?

adruis krulis stud earrings
If you’d like an up-close look at some of his work, click here for a list of retailers.

Cindy Edelstein Memorial Charity Auction

Cindy Edelstein was a powerful woman in the world of jewelry. I met her a few times over the years, and I was so impressed with her devotion to both jewelry designers and the industry as a whole. When she tragically passed last year, it left a deep hole in the heart of the jewelry world. The Contemporary Jewelry Design Group (CJDG), in association with Couture, is honoring her legacy with an online jewelry auction, and bidding will be opening tomorrow, May 15, 2017.

CJDC-ad-final-MS
There are over 30 unique pieces on the auction block, each generously donated by CJDG members. Proceeds from the auction will benefit Jewelers for Children and the Women’s Jewelry Association Scholarship Fund. Here’s a little more about these recipients:

“Jewelers for Children is a non-profit founded in 1999 by the U.S. jewelry industry with the mission of helping children in need. Since its inception, JFC has donated more than $51 million to programs serving children whose lives have been affected by illness, abuse, or neglect.

The Women’s Jewelry Association established the “Cindy Edelstein Jewelry Design Scholarship” in 2016 to honor Cindy’s unwavering commitment to the WJA and the careers of women. This scholarship, in the amount of $5,000, is awarded annually.”

Bidding runs May 15- June 3 at 4pm. The winners will be announced at the Couture cocktail party following the close of the show at 6:00 pm on June 3, 2017. And don’t worry — you don’t have to be present to win. This auction is open to the public, and the jewelry will be sent to the winning bidders.

Just to tempt you, here are a few of the gorgeous pieces that could be yours….

Skye pendant from Julez Bryant

julez bryant skye pendant
Knife Edge hoop earrings from Suzy Landa

suzy landa signature knife edge hoop earrings
Pamela Froman yellow and pink gold Scrolls bar necklace with diamonds

pamela froman pink and yellow gold scrolls bar necklace with diamonds
Inverted diamond and oxidized silver earrings from TAP by Todd Pownell

tap by todd pownell diamond earrings
Dana Bronfman’s Trina ring in yellow gold with diamonds

dana bronfman trina ring in yellow gold with diamonds
Antique Greek coin necklace from Jane Bohan

jane bohan antique greek coin necklace
Raw diamond disc earrings from Todd Reed

todd reed raw diamond disc earrings
So have I got your attention now? I thought so. Head on over to the auction site and bid for both beauty and a great cause.

(Original photo of Cindy by Dario Calmese/ Artwork by Mike Pfeffer)