Brooches/Pins – Page 2 – Jewelry Fashion Tips

What is Georgian Jewelry?

My love of jewelry has no boundaries in terms of time. New, antique, vintage — there’s just so much darn jewelry goodness out there! Typically, I buy what speaks to my heart, whether I know much about it or not (from a reputable source, of course). This is how I wound up with a couple Victorian rings from Metier in the past year or so. But as time goes by, I’m thirsting for knowledge about the different time periods of antique and vintage jewelry: Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco. If I’m wanting to know more, then I’m assuming I should take you all along for the historical ride, right? So let’s dig in to this new blog series, and answer the question, “What is Georgian Jewelry?”

Georgian rose-cut diamond ring from Lang Antiques

Georgian jewelry comes from the time period 1714-1837, in which there were four consecutive King Georges reigning in England (the I-IV). It was truly a tumultuous time in history, including the American Revolution and the French Revolution. Marie Antoinette? Catherine the Great? Yep, also part of this time in history. Because this time period covers over 100 years, you can certainly see an evolution in styles. In the early 1700’s jewelry was more in the Baroque style, characterized by a heavier feeling. Things lightened up in the mid 1700’s.

Jewelry was all made by hand of 18K gold (or higher) or silver. Platinum was not yet discovered, and white gold was not used in jewelry. Gold had to be hand hammered into thin sheets before it could be cut up to make jewlery. This process got a bit easier in 1750 when the rolling mill was invented. Interestingly, Georgian jewlery usually doesn’t bear any hallmark stamps of either the maker or the metal content. It was just not done at this time.

There were many popular motifs during this era, including:

bows, ribbons and scrolls
nature: leaves, flowers, feathers, crescents
crowns
crosses
Greek, Roman and Egyptian motifs

Diamonds were especially popular, and they normally came in one of the following cuts:

rose cut: these have a faceted, domed top and a flat bottom (see example in first photo in this article)
table cut: a square shape with a flat top and bottom
old mine cut: a faceted rounded square, known as “the brilliant cut” of the time period

Colored stones became more en vogue as well around the mid 1700’s. All stones were set with a closed back, often with a foil backing. This foil made the diamonds sparkle brighter and enhanced the color in other gems. (Due to the foil, it’s very important to never wash your hands wearing a Georgian ring. It will wreck it!) Jewelry was worn mainly by the very wealthy and some of the upper middle class. “Paste” jewels (basically cut glass, often foil-backed) were also popular, and the elite sometimes had paste replicas of their good jewels to wear during travel. That way, if they were robbed, they still had the “good stuff” at home.

Now what about the types of jewelry that were popular? Here’s some key styles from the Georgian period:

Girandole earrings: style where there’s three pear-shaped drops hanging from a bow or some other central element (earrings via 1stdibs)

Pendeloque earrings: these have a top that’s round or elongated, then a bow, then a larger, complementary drop (earrings via Vignette)

georgian pendeloque earrings via vignette

Chokers: necklaces worn snugly around the neck (paste choker via Belfor Antiques)

georgian paste choker via belfor antiques

Cameos: the design (often a person’s profile) is carved in relief, meaning it protrudes from the base (Shell cameo via Exceptional Vintage)

georgian shell cameo via exceptional vintage

Intaglios: the design is carved into the stone, as opposed to sitting atop the stone (Ring from Butterlane)

georgian tassie intaglio locket ring from erica weiner

Riviere necklaces: a chain of gems, each in their own setting, linked together (necklace from Lang Antiques)

rose cut diamond riviere necklace from lang antiques

Chatelaine: piece of jewelry from which one’s essential items hung, such as keys, a small pouch, a pair of scissors, etc. (Chatelaine photo from the Victoria & Albert Museum)

Parure: “sets” or “suites” of jewelry, often containing a brooch/pendant, necklace and earrings (Parure from Doyle & Doyle)

georgian amethyst parure from doyle & doyle

Tiaras and Hair Combs

Memento Mori/ Mourning jewlery: jewelry to commemorate someone who has passed or to remind one of the inevitability of death (mourning ring via Robbins’ Roost Antiques)

georgian mourning ring via robbins' roost antiques

Hair jewlery: literally jewelry with a person’s hair in it; could be a mother’s hair in jewelry for her children, hair of someone who has passed, a secret lover, etc. (Seed pearl and woven hair brooch via Mary’s pearl gemporium.)

georgian seed pearl and woven hair mourning brooch via mary's pearl gemporium

Lover’s Eye lockets: showed just the single eye of ones lover, so only the wearer knew who it was…(Lover’s eye locket via The Three Graces.)

georgian lover's eye locket via the three graces

There’s also a very interesting type of jewelry from 1804, known as “fer de Berlin” jewelry. At this time, many Germans donated their fine jewelry to support the war against Napoleon. In return, they received replicas of their jewelry made in iron with black lacquer. This is a difficult one for me to wrap my head around. I can’t imagine sacrificing my most precious jewelry — that shows true love of your country!! (Berlin iron bracelet via 1stdibs.com)

Unfortunately, there’s not an over-abundance of Georgian jewelry around today. It was often taken apart, melted down, and re-worked. Due to its rarity, you can imagine that quality pieces are an investment. Do you happen own any Georgian jewelry? Or do you know any other interesting facts about the period? I’d love to hear from you in the comment section below!

Paula Crevoshay: Designer

Get ready for your jaw to drop…seriously, don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Pretty spectacular, hm?! OK — here’s one more to whet your appetite.

Now you’re getting an idea why meeting Paula Crevoshay and getting the opportunity to see her jewelry in person at the Couture show was on my “must do!” list. Aptly dubbed “The Queen of Color,” Paula utilizes her artistic talent to paint with gemstones. (She in fact has a masters degree in painting and sculpture, graduating with honors by the age of 22!) Each of her pieces is one-of-a-kind.

Let me show you a few items I couldn’t resist trying on while at the show. First is this poppy ring, which took a year to make. The intricacy of detail as I peered from the top, side, and back was just incredible. The ombre effect she created with the Mexican opals, moonstone center, the folding waves of the petals…I couldn’t get enough of it.

paula crevoshay poppy ring,diagonal view

Paula sketches each design, and she can envision exactly which stones she’ll need to bring her vision off the page and into real life. This African Queen bracelet is made of faceted Ethiopian opals and blue zircon from Cambodia. From design until completion, it was about 6 months. It looks pretty good on me, right?!

While Paula didn’t necessarily anticipate going into jewelry, that changed while she was on a three year “Magical Mystery tour” in India as a new bride. I can only imagine how the vibrant colors of India, combined with her artistic talent just exploded during this period in her life.

This butterfly brooch, featuring an aquamarine carved by Lawrence Stoller of CrystalWorks, practically flew into my palm.

Being the ocean-lover I am, I also had to admire her Seafoam Bracelet, depicting the waves coming onto shore. The blue sapphires represent the water, with diamonds as the frothy foam.

I know you won’t be surprised to hear that Paula has permanent displays in museums, including the Smithsonian Institute, Carnegie Museum and the GIA Museum. Believing that “we are born to be jeweled,” it has always been her intention that her jewlery consists of one-of-a-kind art pieces. She has achieved this in spades.

I want to share a few more images with you…

If you’d like to get to know a bit more about Paula and explore her passion, take 6 minutes to enjoy this beautiful video. After viewing it, I felt both zen and inspired at the same time.

I want to thank Paula and her wonderful team for taking the time to speak with me. I learned so much, and I now have an even deeper appreciation of her work.

Jewelry Box Basics: Brooches

It’s been quite some time since I’ve written a “Jewelry Box Basics” article. In case you weren’t around when I began the series or need a little refresher, here’s what it’s all about. Based upon my 17+ years as an image consultant and wardrobe stylist, I’ve identified six different personal styles: the lady who lunches, the bohemian, the rock star, the minimalist, the romantic, and the trendy gal. Granted, most people don’t fit exactly into any one box, but you can use these styles as a framework for assessing your own style, and what you may want in your jewelry box. (Click on each type to see the original articles with descriptions.)

With brooches being heralded as all the rage for fall/winter 2015, I thought it would be fun to investigate how each style might interpret this trend…because trust me, everyone will select a different permutation! So here are some ideas based on these different styles.

The Lady Who Lunches

She is feminine, loves her diamonds, and she needs a brooch that will go to a daytime charity luncheon or to a cocktail party.

Lanvin textured rose tie pin

Balenciaga silver tone crystal brooch

The Bohemian

Color and texture are the name of the game.

Robin Mollicone safety pin brooch

robin mollicone angelite:smoky crystal stone drop safety pin

Erickson Beamon Stratosphere pin

erickson beamon stratosphere crystal & faux pearl pin

The Rock Star

Black, skulls, chains…it’s all good!

Alexis Bittar pyrite heart pin

Alexander McQueen skull brooch

The Minimalist

I struggled with the thought of a minimalist even opting to don a brooch, but then I found a couple that may work.

Erin Considine Kata pin

Marni pin

The Romantic

Cameos are a given for this personal style, so here are a couple non-cameo ideas.

Adriana Orsini deco pin

adriana orsini deco pave crystal long pin

Miriam Haskell Vata brooch set

The Trendy Gal

This one is willing to try the latest trend — she goes for fun and whimsy!

Sonia Rykiel pin

Saint Laurent set of eight

So what do you think? Can you envision yourself wearing any of these? Do you have something already in your jewelry box that you’re going to put back into the rotation? Do tell!

August Birthstone: Peridot

Since August began, my Instagram feed has been full of sparkling peridot jewlery, honoring the birthstone for the month of August. Around August third I had one of those “Doh!” moments. Here I’ve been blogging about jewelry for over four years, and never have I written a series of articles about the birthstones for each month. (Sometimes my blondness amazes me.) So I’m very excited to explore the gems for each month, and we start with the peridot, which I learned is one of the few gems that comes in only one color. Ranging from a lighter yellow-green to a dark olive, the depth of the green is determined by how much iron is in the stone.

Known as “the gem of the sun” and “the emerald of the evening,” the peridot apparently has many benefits to its wearer, including the following:

-Happiness
-Prosperity
-Peace
-Enhances harmony in relationships
-Strengthens intuition
-Slows aging
-Attracts love into your life

What’s not to love about this list?! With that in mind, I started my search to see what fabulous peridot designs I could find. In no particular order, here’s eleven pieces that I would wear in a heartbeat.

Mayson peridot and diamond earrings via Zaver and Mor

mayson peridot and diamond earrings from zaver & mor

Ippolita five-stone peridot bangle

Amrit birthstone necklace via Broken English

amrit birthstone necklace from broken english

Anne Sportun peridot wrap bracelet via Quadrum

anne sportun peridot wrap bracelet from quadrum

Carved peridot cameo with diamonds via Lang Antiques

lang antiques carved peridot cameo and diamond brooch pendant

Judy Geib peridot and emerald drop earrings

judy geib emerald, peridot and gold drop earrings

Jennifer Dawes square peridot stacking ring

jennifer dawes stacking square peridot band

Sydney Lynch Strata cuff with peridot, andalusite, tourmaline, and Umba sapphire

Gabriella Kiss oval peridot ring via Quadrum

gabriella kiss oval peridot ring from quadrum gallery

Vintage peridot Jannecke ring via Brilliant Earth

vintage jannecke ring from brilliant earth

Melissa Joy Manning peridot earrings

melissa joy manning gold and peridot earrings

So what do you think? Is peridot a stone you can see yourself wearing? Happy birthday to my August birthday readers! I hope all your birthday wishes come true.

Dragonflies, Bees and Butterflies

Though spring in San Francisco currently seems to be colder than our winter, my eye is still being caught by the ever-popular insect motif in jewelry. As I was walking up Sutter Street the other day, this little Victorian beauty buzzed my name from the front window of Lang Antique & Estate Jewelry.

victorian diamond, tiger's eye, opal and ruby bee pin from lang antique jewelry

While so beautiful, this intricate piece is certainly an investment for most people. It got me thinking about how this pin would be on the catwalk at Fashion Week. But how to translate this to the street? Or as often dubbed, “Runway to Realway.” I took a look around and compiled a collection of ideas. Here they are, in no particular order.

Alexis Bittar Iridescent Bumble Bee Studs

alexis bittar iridescent bumble bee stud earrings

Siena Jewelry Silver Diamond Bee Pendant Necklace

Efva Attling Miss Butterfly Headband

Because even a baby can rock a butterfly, James Banks Butterfly Baby Ring

Slane Bee Charm Bracelet

Jacquie Aiche Butterfly Stud

Anna Ruth Henriques Moonstone Dragonfly Pendant

anna ruth henriques dragonfly moonstone pendant

Slane Grace Black Onyx Bee Intaglio Ring

slane grace black onyx an dsterling silver ring with bee intaglio

Efva Attling Miss Butterfly Heaven Collier

And if you’re looking for a little something special for the graduate in your life, Dogeared Graduation Butterfly Necklace. (which also comes in silver)

Tomorrow, as I head out for the day, I’m going to see how many of these winged creatures I see, both in reality and in the form of jewelry. I hope you have a lovely spring day!

Into the Jewelry Box: Luika

When Thanksgiving rolls around, a time for family and friends, I start to pull out some of my more sentimental pieces of jewelry. One day it might be my Nonie’s engagement ring, with its center stone of deep blue glass, weathered with her years of hard labor keeping up the house and garden. Or maybe it’s my mother’s childhood locket, layered with some other necklaces. Whatever the case may be, these pieces hold a very special place in my heart. Clearly Luika, who I’ve known my entire life, feels the same way, as her jewelry box is filled with meaningful treasures. In this third installment of “Into The Jewelry Box,” I had the opportunity to explore some of Luika’s wonderful memories. The first ring that jumped out was this stunning, large citrine cocktail ring with a delicate gold setting.

As is often the case with jewelry, this ring had a story. She and her husband attended a very special Christmas party at the Kennedy Center in 1997. Each year, a different embassy would host the party, and that year it was hosted by the Ambassador of Brazil. After the main program, select guests were invited to a formal dinner, beginning at 11pm. (Late!) The ladies in attendance, including Luika, were given a special gift from the Ambassador — in this case, this lovely ring. How generous!

She also has a collection of many colorful rings, modeled by yours truly.

The top one in the photos is a vintage jade ring — the color is really exquisite. The next one is a beautiful blue star sapphire set in white gold. This was a birthday gift from her husband back in ’62 or ’63. I was really intrigued with the blue star-cut ring. While the blue star itself is a manufactured stone, it’s surrounded by 5 small diamonds in white gold. It belonged to her mother, so I would place the ring to be from somewhere in the 1930’s. It’s so fun! And finally, the double amethyst, which was designed by H.Stern and bought on vacation while in St. Thomas.

This next bracelet is just so cool, and it was a wonderful gift from her husband. He had it made for her, and it’s gold-dipped pennies from 1957, which is the year they first met and had their first date. How romantic is that?! It was one of their customs to always throw pennies in fountains for good wishes, even after they were married. I think my eyes may have gotten a bit misty hearing this story.

Another very meaningful set for the two of them is this marcasite necklace and earrings, which was her bride gift on the day of her wedding from her loving groom.

Luika was born in September, so her baby ring is set with a sapphire. I think the setting is fantastic. Clearly she was an elegant baby!

Her Benrus evening watch is a classic. This NYC-based watch company was hot, hot, hot in the 1900’s. I wish I could hear the watch tell stories of where it has been.

And finally, I saw these two cameos, which belonged to her mother. Such beautiful detail!

As you can see, looking through her collection is like taking a walk down memory lane. Do you have pieces like that in your jewelry box? Perhaps some of your Thanksgiving companions will be wearing bits of history themselves– you may want to inquire about what they’re wearing, as there may be a great story behind it.

Happy Thanksgiving to you all! xo, Amy:)

Into the Jewelry Box: Merna

So how many of you just love watching those reality shows were you get to tour people’s homes and get an inside peek into their closets?! Or even a spread in Architectural Digest or In Style magazine that shows you how the stars live? Well I just love them, but I always wish they’d spend a little more time in the closet, and more specifically show me what’s in their jewelry box. I don’t care if it’s Oprah or someone I’ve never heard of, it’s just my curiosity about wanting to see what pieces are important to them. That’s how I came up with this new series, “Into the Jewelry Box.” Throughout the year, I’ll be visiting people’s homes and getting an in-depth look at their collection. I can’t wait see what I find and share it with you!

My first visit was to see Merna, a stylish 61 year-young woman with a background full of fashion. With a cropped blond pixie and twinkling eyes, she seemed very excited to show me her treasures. In fact when she opened the door, she was wearing her first diamond, which she received at 7 months old from her grandmother (who was also her godmother) for her baptism. Jewelry has clearly been part of her life from the start, and she joked, “I teethed on Vogue!”

Still in possession of her first jewelry box from 5th grade, she has been a collector and receiver of many gifts throughout her life. In fact, her collection has pieces dating back over 100 years.

I asked her to show me her favorite piece, and she couldn’t limit it to one. The first was this sunburst pendant/pin from Taxco, which was made by one of Spratling’s students. Just beautiful workmanship!

Another favorite is a large sterling cuff of her mothers from 1949. She used to own its mate, but sadly it disappeared at a photo shoot. (I hope whoever walked off it with is at least enjoying it!)

Finally, this sea shell, which she found during a photo shoot at Stinson Beach, is a sentimental favorite. Ironically a couple years after she started wearing it, she was flipping through the pages of W magazine and saw that Yojii Yamamoto did the exact same thing in sterling silver! (for $4500!)

Merna’s collection is housed in a large rolling tower of drawers, and we spent a good amount of time opening little boxes and peering inside silk pouches. (It felt like a treasure hunt for me!) My jaw dropped when I came across this exquisitely detailed pre-WWII Chinese dragon bracelet. She also has the matching ring and earrings which she received during college, as she was born in the Year of the Dragon.

These silver filagree bracelets from the early 1900’s also demonstrate amazing detail.

When I asked how her personal style has changed over the years, she talked about how she has shifted more from the small, delicate pieces (unless worn in stacks or layers) to bolder pieces. She likes the juxtaposition of the the bold pieces with her tall, small frame. Case in point are these wide Armani bangles, purchased from the Armani store in SF back in the 90’s.

I will say, though, that I was drawn to her vintage pieces. It was like being in a jewelry museum, but you could actually try things on. Take a look at this silver and amethyst Art Nouveau set from around 1900.

And being a Downton Abbey-o-holic, I could just picture Merna’s mother wearing this 1920’s pearl necklace out on the town in her flapper-esque dress…

If you like vintage watches, then you’ll definitely like this Longines timepiece from the 1930’s, which is completely original inside and with a new strap.

She says that she rarely edits her jewelry, as she has been given so many lovely gifts and she only buys what she loves. With so much diversity in her jewelry box, I asked her what was on her jewelry lust list. Here’s her top items:

1. There are always some Hermes pieces that she has her eye on
2. A gold pearl necklace and matching stud earrings (which would complement her hair perfectly!)
3. A single stone aquamarine pendant
4. Brown diamond stacking rings

I’m sure, like me, she’ll add things to her list. And sometimes you don’t even know when your heart will be pulled by something sparkly as you walk by the window of a random shop. Though whatever she does end up acquiring, either for herself or as a gift, I know it will have a story. There was not one item we found that didn’t have a story to go along with it, and in my eyes, that makes her collection all the more special.

Thanks for opening up your jewelry box for me, Merna! xo

Repurposing Jewelry: 10 Creative Ideas

No matter what the size of your home, there’s bound to be things in it that you no longer use. This even trickles down to your jewelry box. It could be a bracelet (that’s not quite your style) you received for your birthday from a dear friend (so you can’t throw it out, right?!) or an heirloom piece that you don’t wear, but just lies unloved at the bottom of your jewelry box. Or perhaps it’s some sparkly brooches that you wore at your neck during the 80’s or a singular earring, with it’s mate lost on some trip long ago. Whatever the case may be, I’ve got a bunch of ideas for you that might give new life to those items.

Take parts of different pieces to create a new one

If you’ve got a bunch of costume brooches laying around then you might just love Martha Stewart’s idea for creating a brooch ribbon necklace. It’s a simple process, and the result is so unique.

Turn unused pearl strands into a multi-strand bracelet

A client of mine did this, and it worked beautifully. She had two matching long strands of pearls that she wasn’t wearing. She used a local jeweler to re-fashion them into a multi-strand bracelet, something along the lines of this:

The same could also be done with fresh-water strands, to create some great stacking bracelets.

Use a pearl necklace to make earrings for a group

This idea came from a reader. (Thanks, Monique!) She suggested that you can take apart a pearl necklace and make earrings for each woman in the family — perfect for a significant event like a wedding. She said it, “connects everyone with a thread of beauty.” Love that! Depending on the length of the original necklace, you could likely get many pair of earrings made!

You could even make pearl enhancers for everyone to wear on small hoop earrings.

Turn jewelry into decor

If you’ve got a piece of jewelry that you really won’t be wearing (perhaps a family heirloom?), how about framing it in a shadow box and hanging it on your wall? You could even frame various pieces in different sizes and create a montage on your dressing room wall. How girly would that be?

There’s such a wide range of frames available now, that you can get any look from sleek and modern to scrolly and vintage. I had my local frame shop frame this antique Central American crown that I found in a Santa Barbara shop. A crown is almost jewelry, right?!

Use a brooch on an evening bag

My friend Jen is a master of this. She has quite the collections of both pins and evening bags, so she always comes up with something beautiful. Here’s one she just used during the holiday season.

I love how she pinned the brooch right into the center of the bow — great focal point.

Create unique napkin rings

My table is normally set in neutrals, so I decided to spice things up a bit for a recent dinner party. Using scraps of ribbon and some brooches from the far recesses of my jewelry box, I fashioned some creative napkin rings with a pop of color. It worked perfectly with my beige linens and white dishes.

Create a bridal bouquet

I’ve got to credit Pinterest with this idea. I came across so many lovely brooch bouquets while scrolling through the images!

Country star Miranda Lambert even used one at her wedding to Blake Shelton.

Decorate a package

I don’t know about you, but sometimes the special wrapping on a package is just as memorable as the gift inside. Why not glam it up even more by affixing some jewelry to the present?

Bedazzle a bottle

Decorative bottles with embellished tops have been quite popular the past few years. Why not add another dimension by adding a “necklace” of sorts? Here’s part of an old rosary around a vintage bottle with a stained glass cross.

Make a Christmas Wreath

If you’re looking for a way to make your holiday sparkle even more, then you might just love this bejeweled wreath. Better Homes and Gardens has instructions here on how to make it yourself.

So what have you done to creatively repurpose jewelry? I’d love to hear all about your ideas — please send me photos too!

Merry Christmas!

Back when I taught third grade, there was sort of a Christmas “badge of honor” at my school. You see, there was this one family that had three children. Each year, the child would give his or her teacher one of their hand-crafted Christmas tree pins, carefully made by their mother and grandmother. As the years went by, these children had many teachers, so the number of faculty members festively walking around the halls with one of these special pins grew each year. I was so excited to receive one when I had their youngest son in my third-grade classroom. Though I no longer wear it, I will treasure it forever, and it brings a smile to my face each time I see it in my jewelry box. Do you have any special Christmas items like this in your collection?

I hope that you and your family have a sparkling holiday!! Love, Amy

Jewelry Made From Human Teeth

No, this is not a Halloween post (I know that Thanksgiving is tomorrow.). Though I just have to share — I recently came across a cache of photos of Victorian era jewelry with human teeth. What the heck?! Seriously, I find this whole concept a bit freaky. Here is a prime example…it’s an enamel brooch given to Princess Victoria from Prince Albert in 1847. It features the “first milk tooth” from their child. Uh, is it just me, or is this a bit icky??

Upon further research, I’m finding that using human teeth in jewelry is not something just done in the past. In fact, the art is alive and well. Melbourne jeweler Polly Van Der Glas has a whole collection of jewelry made from human teeth, set in sterling silver. Moreso, her line focuses on all things that were once attached to the human body — hair, teeth, and fingernails. She even offers a 10% discount on commissioned jewelry in which you provide the teeth.

I don’t know about you, but this is definitely not something that will be on my jewelry lust list…just sayin’.