Brazil was well-represented at the Couture jewelry show, and I think that Mary Esses was one of its stars! As a child, Mary dreamed of being a decorator, special agent, chef, forensic lawyer and jewelry designer. Happily, she already has achieved one of her childhood dreams. Mary is just as sparkling as her line, and she just exudes joy and femininity. These qualities are definitely apparent in her pieces.
Moving from Brazil to New York City, Mary was amazed at the juxtaposition of the fabrics and textures that surrounded her. Taking this theme, and striving to bring “fabric” to jewelry, she came up with the concept for her lace collection. Given that lace is one of the hottest trends in fashion, Mary is right on the money with this group. The 18K gold is manipulated in such a way that I honestly had to ask if the jewelry was made of metal or actual lace! Her assistant gave me a sly grin and said, “Well we don’t give away our secrets!”
The lace group is only one part of her line, though. She also embraces lots of color in her other collections. I’m in lust with the graduated oranges and tangerines of carnelian in the multi-strand beaded bracelet! The ring is made of Madera citrine, smoky quartz and diamonds. And don’t get me started on the rutilated quartz earrings.
I must say I adore the geometry and bold color choice in these chrisophrase and smoky topaz earrings. I think I would wear them with a white maxi-dress and gold sandals on the Riviera! (with a cocktail in hand, of course!)
All her jewelry is hand-crafted. When I asked Mary what the best part of being a jewelry designer was, here was her reply, “The best part…is when I sit on the bench and start working on a piece, and I get to a stage of clear and peaceful mind. When, like a child, I disconnect from everything and I just play. And even if the outcome is not perfect, it doesn’t matter. Because I rest my mind and I free my soul while doing it. There will always be “a next day” to make that piece better.” I can’t tell you how this resonates with my soul. Getting totally immersed in something that brings you joy, and letting go of the perfectionism that our society prides itself on is a gift. Mary, you are a gift to jewelry!