2016 – Page 6 – Jewelry Fashion Tips

Julie Cohn Design

There are times when I see a jewelry line, and it just resonates with me. This is exactly what happened when I checked out Julie Cohn’s work. (Thanks for the tip, Vicente Agor!) I think it’s so chic! Julie describes her collection as, “…primitive, yet modern in style, juxtaposing refined elements with rough organic shapes.” Working with Ancient Bronze and sterling silver, along with semi-precious stones, her designs are absolutely wearable. I had the chance to ask Julie some questions about her and her line. Read on to see what she has to say…

I’m in awe of your creative pursuits the past 30 years, which include designing paper, rugs, wallpaper and more. Has one thing just led to another in a natural progression? How did you make the jump to jewlery?

All of my creative endeavors have evolved organically. Each area of design that I have been involved with has had some common component with the next project. I was prototyping for a drapery hardware project and certain techniques that we were using were applicable to jewelry.

I think it’s wonderful that all the pieces in your line are made right in Dallas! Are you a self-taught jeweler?

I am a self taught jeweler. I have had private instruction along the way to figure out the best way to interpret a design, but I do all the conceptualizing and wax carving.

Your designs are both rustic and refined at the same time. How would you describe your aesthetic?

I am very influenced by the midcentury craft movement, which in turn was influenced by the architecture and ethnic crafts of that time period. I love ethnic jewelry but I also love the organic refinement of Elsa Perretti. I think my aesthetic is a mixture of all of those influences, in addition to my love of all things Japanese.

What is your current favorite piece or two in your line?

I love a lot of my rings. The current collection is about hand formed geometry and references contemporary architecture that I love. My favorite necklace is the Helena. It is made entirely of hand formed beads that are individually wire wrapped together. It’s obsessive in its construction but is so simple — it’s like a strand of bronze pearls.

What do you find are the biggest rewards and challenges of being a jewlery designer?

I live to work. There is an infinite amount of inspiration that I would love to explore. I think it is hard staying true to your own style and strengths when they may not be what everyone else is doing. I have never been successful when I’ve chased trends. I design for myself and what I’d like to be wearing.

If I were to visit Dallas, what’s your favorite:

restaurant? Stock and Barrel
retail store? Grange Hall
gallery or museum? Actually I have seen great shows this year at the Dallas Museum of Art and the Nasher Sculpture Center.

Julie also has a fine jewelry collection. Here are a couple of my favorite pieces…

Saturn ring

Ponte bangle

Julie, thank you so much for sharing your passion with me. I look forward to meeting you in person one day!

Jewelry Fashion Tips is 5 Years Old!

I actually had to go check my calendar, but yep…it was back on April 8, 2011, I started this blog. How can it be that five years has flown by so quickly? I thought I’d share with you how this blog ever came to be.

I was dating a professional blogger, and we were driving home from dinner over in Half Moon Bay. This is how the conversation went down:

Him: “I think you should start a jewelry blog. You are so passionate about jewelry, and it would fit in perfectly with your image consulting business.”

Me: “Are you frickin’ crazy?! I have no idea what I’d write about!”

Him: “OK, get out a piece of paper, and start writing down article ideas. Tell me when you get to 50.”

I started jotting down ideas and continued the list when we got back to my apartment. I got to 50 without even really trying too hard. I couldn’t believe I had all these ideas swimming around in my head. Who knew?!

About 30 minutes later he said, “Go to JewelryFashionTips.com. It’s yours.” I did, and this is what I saw…

I was shocked, I was excited, and I told him, “I HATE the name! Why can’t I have something cute and catchy?” He explained it was a name which would be searchable online, and he was right. (Damn it! I hate when he’s right.) Organic search is still the #1 way people find my blog.

So now, 5 years later, I still have barely made a dent in my original 50 topic ideas, and I can’t stop writing. Thank you to Jeff, who’s still my bestie and blog master, to the talented people I’ve met in the fascinating world of jewlery, and to you, my fabulous readers. I cannot thank you all enough for your continued support!

Now, time to eat that dee-lish chocolate and coconut cupcake from Kara’s that I purchased to shoot the photo. Cheers! xoxo

April Birthstone: Diamond

Oh, you lucky April babies…you get the diamond as your birthstone! This gem, made of pure carbon, is known as the “stone of invincibility” because it’s the hardest known naturally occurring substance. It comes in most colors of the rainbow and can range from clear to opaque. Not only are diamonds beautiful, but they bring many wonderful qualities to those who wear them:

-enhances your inner vision, opening one to new possibilities
-brings balance to your brain and life
-builds strength and fortitude
-is a symbol of faithfulness and love
-helps release fear and anxiety, and builds courage and hope
-associated with success and abundance

One interesting thing I read while researching diamonds is that they are purported to amplify both the positive and the negative. So, for example, if you’re in a terrible mood, it will apparently magnify this feeling. It is suggested that one take off ones diamonds if feeling negative. Interesting, hm?

I was a bit overwhelmed when I began pondering how I could narrow down my examples of diamond jewelry to just a handful. There’s SO many pieces I love out there! Therefore, I decided to narrow the field and show you some of the fantastic designs from my local peeps — talented designers from the San Francisco Bay Area. I asked 11 different designers to share one of their current favorite pieces from their collections. So here they are in no particular order for your viewing pleasure…

Adeline Jewelry Quintet Ring — hand-carved 14K yellow gold beveled-edge band with five rosecut hexagon salt and pepper diamonds

Rebecca Overmann Signet Diamond Waterfall Ring — 14K yellow gold with rosecut and brilliant diamonds (photo by Jay Perez)

Vicent Agor Hokule’a Sailboat Earrings — 18K yellow gold and diamonds

Jennifer Dawes Blockette Pear Diamond Ring — features a 1.97 ct white diamond (cut by Lewis “Lazer” Wolf) in a hand-engraved milgrain platinum bezel

jennifer dawes diamond pear ring in platinum

Ashley Morgan Diamond Slice Necklaces — These come in a variety of shapes with diamond accents on the 18K white gold chains.

Sakura Haru Halo Diamond Cluster Ring — 14K rose gold ring featuring and old euro-cut diamond from the early 1800’s (diamond from Perpetuum Jewels); the smaller side diamonds are from the client’s father, who had recently passed away.

Sethi Couture Silhouette Marquis Diamond Earrings — white diamond baguette earrings accented with Marquis diamonds in 18K yellow gold.

sethi couture silhourette marquis earrings

Sarah Swell Galaxy Diamond Band — inspired by a cluster of stars, this ring is 18K yellow gold (also available in white) and features .10 ct of conflict-free diamonds.

Tura Sugden Marquis and Diamond Slice Drop Earrings — 18k and 22k yellow gold with gray marquis diamonds and naturally marbled champagne diamond slices

Thalia Jewelry Diamond Rings — includes a platinum and diamond eternity band, a 14K rose gold diamond eternity band, and a larger platinum and diamond band, and a 2ct 18K yellow gold band.

Lauren Wolf Diamond Prism Ring — features three kite cut diamonds set in 18k yellow gold (It also comes in a smaller version in rose gold.)

I don’t know about you, but I’m blown away by the range in beauty coming out of the Bay Area. Thank you so much to the wonderful designers for sharing your work! May all of you with a birthday this month have a wonderful celebration and some fun shopping for diamonds. xo

What is a Figa?

Gem Gossip is one of my favorite jewelry blogs I follow. It has a strong focus on vintage and antique jewelry, which is an area I’m always looking to learn more about. Danielle, the talented writer, recently posted an article about different ways she was styling her figa charms. I was totally into it! Here’s an image from her article. And I was left with, “I love this, and what the heck is a figa?!”

How Danielle, from Gem Gossip, is styling her figas

When I started researching what a figa is, I learned it’s quite the controversial symbol. Properly called the “mano fico,” this is an Italian symbol going back centuries. (Must be my half-Italian side that was drawn to this!) The symbol is a closed fist, with the thumb going through the index and middle fingers. It is a representation of a woman’s genitalia and sex, to be blunt. It is said to ward off the “evil eye” and bring protection to the wearer. Basically, the gesture is supposed to be so offensive that it scares off the “evil.” Interestingly, Brazil and Portugal also see this amulet as a good luck symbol. BUT…much of the world sees this as a very obscene gesture, basically the equivalent of giving someone the finger. (Note to self, never wear this in Turkey, South Africa, France or Russia.)

Of course, I had to have one too, so off I went to Esty where I found a lovely vintage rock crystal figa from MindiLynJewelry. If you follow my blog, you know I’m a complete rock crystal addict! (My body actually craves it.)

The first thing I did was to style it similarly to how Danielle did hers. I, too, have a vintage gold Italian horn. I then added a goddess charm that brings a smile to my face, which I think makes for a fun trio. I will say that this mix produces a bit of noise, which I noticed anytime I moved during acupuncture. (But it was a happy sound.)

The next day, I layered this same trio with a longer necklace. This one is a moonstone beaded necklace from Flying Lizard with a Dominique Cohen pendant. I like the combo.

And thanks to this experiment (and Danielle), now I’ve got a new love of “the figa,” as if I needed one more jewelry crush…It’s a good thing this Victorian wooden figa is already sold. It’s wearing a bracelet for goodness sake — how cool is that?!

Doryn Wallach: Designer

Doryn Wallach is a name you’re going to start hearing more and more often. She made her debut at Centurion, where she was named Emerging Designer of 2016! In addition, she’s one of the Rising Stars who will be showing at the JCK show in Las Vegas this June. Way to make an entrance into the world of jewlery! After two decades as an interior designer, Doryn is now channeling her creativity and love of Art Deco line and design into jewelry. Read below as I asked her a few questions about her and her line.

I see that you’ve had a love of jewelry your whole life. In particular, re-designing pieces to fit in with your lifestyle. What’s one of the most memorable re-designs you recall?

I would have to say the gladiator ring from my collection, because that’s what sparked my career change. It started with a diamond eternity band I rarely wore. This ring was a gift from my husband, and I felt guilty that it spent most of the time hidden away in my jewelry box. So I decided to rework the diamonds into something I would wear every day — the gladiator ring. When people asked me who made it, a light bulb went off in my head.

doryn wallach white diamond gladiator ring

The transition from your career as an interior designer to a jewelry designer seems so natural. How did you develop your affinity for the Art Deco period? Is this a carry-over from interior design?

When I was growing up outside Boston, my family spent a lot of our winter vacations in Miami. I was the kid who got my mom from point A to point B by remembering the landmarks, so my eyes were always peering out the car window. I fell in love with the architecture of the city — not only the pastel colors, but the lines of the buildings with their geometric and curvilinear forms. Years later, as an interior designer, I always incorporated Deco pieces in my spaces. I love their timeless glamour.

doryn wallach finely-ribbed hinged necklace with pave-set diamonds

It’s exciting to see what a mark you’re making with your debut collection. What is your current favorite piece?

My agate-and-pearl pendant. I have a deep love for estate jewelry, and I think this piece has an estate feeling as well as a distinctly modern sensibility that allows it to go with almost any piece of clothing – day or night.

doryn wallach agate, pearl and diamond pendant

What do you find are the most challenging and most rewarding aspects of being a jewelry designer?

For me, the most challenging is simply navigating a new business after spending so many years focused on interior design. Of course, that challenge is also what I love about the change. The most rewarding aspect of designing jewelry is seeing my abstract idea become a tangible object. And I love knowing that a woman will wear the piece for many years and one day, hopefully, pass it down.

doryn wallach octagon earrings with diamonds

When you’re not in the studio working, how do you like to spend your free time? Any favorite hobbies?

When I am not working, I am with my kids, who are five and eight. They take most of my free time! But when I do have a few hours to myself, I love walking around the city, browsing through vintage shops and antique stores and people-watching. It’s very inspiring.

doryn wallach scale ring with bezel-set diamond

Perusing through her collection, I think her turquoise gladiator bar necklace is one of my faves. I could see it easily layered or worn on its own.

doryn wallach turquoise gladiator bar necklace

I look forward to meeting you in person at JCK, Doryn — thanks so much for your insight into you and your line!

doryn wallach black and white diamond fishscale rings

Liz Kantner: A Week in the Life of her Ears

I first met Liz Kantner while at the Couture show in the Todd Reed booth. I liked her instantaneously. Since then, I’ve gotten to know her via social media, even though she’s based in Colorado and I’m here in California. I admire her personal style and how she just gets what’s cool, even if the rest of us don’t know it yet. Not only does she write an on-point jewlery blog, but she is also a jewelry consultant and jewelry-lover to the Nth degree. I was thrilled when she agreed to photograph her ears for a week so we could get an up-close look about what’s hip in the world of Liz. Though she does wear a stud configuration most days, at least a few days a week (when she’s feeling bold) she rocks a dangling earring. So without further ado, check out her week…

In all vintage studs…

This next look is vintage studs with a dangling earring by Laura Wood.

vintage studs with Laura Wood dangle earrings

She can’t go wrong with Polly Wales and Gabriella Kiss.

A Todd Reed drop earring with a vintage bug and tiny star earring are so unexpected, yet they work!

vintage tiny star and bug stud with todd reed drop earring

This ram earring from Fox & Bond is perfection with the vintage wishbone and tiny star earring.

vintage earrings with ram earring from fox & bond

And what about this Collette Ishiyama drop earring paired with a quartz stud from @xavi.and.gold and the vintage tiny star earring?

vintage tiny star stud, quartz stud by @xavi.and.gold and collette ishiyama drop earring

Though I did get two additional piercings in my left ear in 2014, I sadly had to let the very top one close — it just wouldn’t heal. I am now exploring my next earring purchase for my lone second piercing on my left ear. I did order one of the earrings in this post to try out, as I’m totally obsessed with it. Any guess which one it is?

Thank you so much, Liz, for sharing your lobe and your jewelry savvy with us!! xo

Brooke Gregson: Designer

I’ve had a crush on Brooke Gregson’s jewelry line for many years, and I was lucky to have the opportunity to meet her in person and play with her jewels at the Couture show. Does her name sound familiar to you? You may know her for her well-known woven silk bracelets with gemstones. Simply divine.

If I had my dream, I’d probably pick this boulder opal ellipse silk and gold bracelet for myself. Isn’t it gorge?!

brooke gregson boulder opal ellipse silk gold bracelet

The lovely Brooke was raised in California and now lives in London. She has studios both in her Notting Hill neighborhood and in Los Angeles. Since founding her business in 2004, Brooke has always maintained strict quality in all her pieces, each hand-made with the assistance of master craftsmen. I was particularly entranced with her engraved pieces. I don’t know which of these three rings I like better. The engraving is all done by hand, and is inspired by her watercolor paintings. (Yes, she paints too!)

Can you see the wide array of colors in the boulder opals? Brooke carefully selects each stone she works with and often chooses gems which others may have overlooked, as they didn’t seem “perfect enough.” It shows how she can see the beauty within. This substantial cuff is another in her engraved series. No…I did not want to take it off!

brooke gregson engraved boulder opal artemis cuff

The two collections meld together effortlessly, as seen in this stellar stack she posted on her Instagram feed. (If you want a riot of color in your feed, I suggest following Brooke Gregson.)

I was also drawn to her Ziggurat collection, so named for the rectangular stepped temples from ancient Mesopotamia. Here are two rings from this group.

The larger of these two rings is named the Hoffman Boulder Opal Sapphire ring. Don’t you think the color combination is so unique? I think Brooke’s talent in painting and drawing has really opened her eyes to mixing colors in ways that others may not think of.

Here are some Ziggurat necklaces layered together.

Once again, I’m in awe of the colors in this complex Ziggurat necklace, composed of boulder opal, turquoise and pink sapphires. It really pops!

brooke gregson boulder opal turquoise ziggurat double bar necklace

If you’re looking for some alternative bridal rings, one of these may be what you’re looking for. I’ve got on the Eclipse Diamond Ring and the Ziggurat Frame Diamond Ring. Which would you choose?

Truly, this line is organic elegance at its best. It’s a jewelry goal to one day own a piece myself. Thanks so much for spending time with me, Brooke! I look forward to our next meeting.

Modern Day Cameo Rings

It’s likely that either you or someone in your family may have a vintage cameo in their jewelry box. They’ve been around for centuries, carved in a traditional manner and commonly found in the form of a brooch. Recently I’ve seen many rings I would consider a “modern cameo.” The first such ring I saw was at Metier in Hayes Valley (San Francisco) by Gabriella Kiss. Instead of a whole face, it features just one eye — another, with a tear falling from the corner. Wouldn’t you agree this is a modern interpretation of a cameo?

Then I came across Hannah Blount’s cameo collection. The design of this ring, the grey lady, with the head set on its side is simply amazing.

hannah blount medium grey lady ring with diamond

I also follow Hannah Blount on Instagram and couldn’t help but admire this combination of her designs.

Then there’s Anthony Lent, who has a bevy of smiling faces among his collection. I appreciate the rectangular boarder in juxtaposition with the curves of the face in his Brickface ring.

Israeli designer Ari Kuperman has a more rustic version, made of sterling silver and gold. I could see this fitting in with a more bohemian/rock’n roll personal style.

I had to look twice when I first saw this Jurio Fujita Gold Face ring. Is it a human face? Or an alien? “It’s the elongated, otherworldy skulls of the Paracas excavation, deemed by Fujita as ‘neither homo sapiens nor Neanderthal.'” Interesting!

Then there’s this Fraser Hamilton Signet Head ring, which I suppose more resembles a modern intaglio ring, as the face is recessed.

fraser hamilton sterling silver portrait ring

I don’t know about you, but I’m completely intrigued by these unique designs. Perhaps it’s time to add one to my ring repertoire. What are your thoughts?

Todd Reed: Designer

Todd Reed is quite a legend in the jewelry industry (and not just because of his wavy locks) — but rather for creating a line showcasing raw diamonds long before they were in the limelight. Little did he know the trajectory for his career would begin when he was only 10 years old and was mesmerized seeing a silversmith at work. Throughout his formative years, he was involved in creative endeavors such as leather work, sculpting and even graduating from the culinary academy. Creativity is clearly in his DNA.

Launching his jewelry business in 1992, Todd was on his way to making “Raw Elegance” one of the most popular and sought-after independent jewelry lines. I was thrilled to get an up-close look at some of his work at the Couture show. The first necklace I was drawn to was this one, which looks like river stones. They are all hinged together, so it lays beautifully around the neck. It’s easy to see nature as one of his inspirations. (Yes..all those stones are diamonds!)

Todd is known for his mixed metals and has created a long-lasting patina which keeps the metal blackened. This fabulous cuff is part of his Marquis collection. I wish I could have kept it on and gone home with it!

Here are earrings and a ring from the same Marquis collection.

Based in Boulder, Colorado, there are 20 jewelers now working at the studio! He’s got quite the team, and each item is carefully produced, from the initial design to delivering the finished product to the customer. Todd lays out each stone for each piece. With the amount of diamonds in his work, I can only imagine how much time he spends at his bench creating the ideal combinations. I tried on these two bracelets while at the show. The three-strand one is made of octahedron diamonds, which is a natural pyramid state of raw diamonds.

This statement ring is from his pillbox collection. Wow!

There is a lovely range in Todd’s designs. Earrings such as these are perfect for everyday use, and they’d look equally beautiful for a special night out.

And couldn’t you see this necklace looking fab with jeans and a leather jacket one day, and then with a red cocktail dress the next?

I particularly enjoy Todd Reed’s Instagram feed, and I stopped dead in my scroll when I saw this one-of-a-kind diamond ring recently. Yes, please!

Though Todd’s main base is in Colorado, he’s also opened a sublime studio and store on Abbot Kinney in Venice, CA. It’s most definitely worth the stop if you’re in southern California. And don’t worry if you don’t live near either location. His line is sold at many luxury retailers around the country.

March Birthstone: Aquamarine

Even though it’s not my birthstone I’m quite partial to the aquamarine, with its oceanic hues of light blue to blue-green. Named after the Latin word “aqua marinus,” meaning water of the sea, this stone is associated with all things ocean. It’s said to protect travelers on the sea, and those traveling near water. Aquamarines come from Brazil and Columbia and are part of the beryl family. Among the qualities associated with this birthstone are:

-self-love
-inspires truth and letting go
-aids in articulation and clear speaking
-helps one release emotional baggage
-stone of courage
-brings peace and serenity

I like it — especially the “letting go” part, as my word for 2016 is release. Given how much I love the shades of aquamarine, I was eager to embark upon my virtual shopping spree and see what I could find. In no particular order…

Amy Gregg rectangular aquamarine mirror ring

amy gregg mirror rectangular cocktail ring

Rosanne Pugliese oval aquamarine pendant

rosanne pugliese 22k and large oval aquamarine pendant

Gabriella Kiss large rectangular aquamarine earrings

gabriella kiss 18k and large rectangular aquamarine earrings

Margioni aquamarine and diamond ring

margoni yellow gold, sterling silver, aquamarine and diamond ring

Meira T milky aquamarine and diamond necklace

meira t diamond, milky aquamarine, 14k rose gold and 14k yellow gold pendant necklace

Monique Pean long geometric aquamarine earrings

monique pean geometric long drop aquamarine earrings

L Frank aquamarine and diamond baguette ring

Jacquie Aiche aquamarine small bar stud earrings

jacquie aiche aquamarine and yellow gold small bar stud earrings

Jennifer Dawes mineral asymmetrical aquamarine necklace

Michelle Fantaci open king ring with blue diamonds and aquamarine

michelle fantaci open king ring with blue dimaonds and aquamarine

Ten Thousand Things large aquamarine cage pendant

Selim Mouzannar caged aquamarine and tanzanite ring

If I had a bottomless wallet, I think I’d just have to buy them all. Which piece is your favorite? And if you’ve got a birthday this month, may all your birthday wishes come true!